NoahDL88

Welcome to the board

The 3 major wear items on the subies are CV's clutches and timing belts. if it clicks it needs an axle somewhere the clutch is self explanitory the timing belts should be replaced every 60k, if they don't know when it was replaced, or it needs replacing soon, try to get about 400 bucks knocked off. For a 90 i wouldn't pay much more than 1000

I'd check the thickness, but a legacy clutch will fit just fine and i'm sure they already have hi-po clutches for them. the EJ trannys have the same splines as the EA tranny

my first suggestion would be to start your own post in the new gen forum for 2 reasons, you arn't retrofitting the car, and it has absolutely positively nothing to do with an EA-82 intake on an EA-71 welcome to the board

The "young edition" came with 36 hp, whoo whoo

The push button is good, i had one in my DL originally. The Dual range is the greatest. swapped it in a year later and i've never looked back. In mud, deep snow, bigger tires, up hills the dual range trumps the single range, if you want to finesse an obstical, if you don't mind blasting ahead all engines full the push button is fine. My theory why the D/R is better, there are no electronics to mess up, its all mechanical. when its in, its in, the pushbutton can bork on you.

:-\ Can I buy a vowel?

Double Ditto, spin the piston's, if you just push them in you will ruin the seals

I'm happy that i know how to weld, now i just need 220 in the garage and a welder. then i can make fabulous Subaru stuff. like reinforced mustache bars, lincoln lockers. bumpers with serrated teeth....

Don't forget the "northern alliance" sticker

Oversized Krispy Kremes work great too, infact just about anything with a 12 inch hole works like a champ I'm partial to the spare tires, or the small puny stock tires and wheels

www.kennedyeng.com Don't know what went wrong, but this works.

I'm still in the "D" But have Subie will travel

Good deal, the waitresses know me by name, so we can get special favors, like immidiate seating even if there's a wait.

I'd go with the Deuce Deuce, down just a little on power, but those engines are dang near the most stout engines ever. If CCR builds the 2.5 with the new EJ257 head gaskets, that engine would be just fine too.

There is no way, but with the diameter difference you can then calculate the % off that your spedo is, and then use a sharpie or whiteout and mark where the 25, 55 and 70 is, or would be if the speedo was accurate, saved me a couple of times.

When ever your out here let me know, I could eat there any day of the week.

What voltage to you have at the battery? on my engine swap she won't start unless i have over 12 volts, although she cranks great with only 11

Theres a word for people like you, its either Crazy or Awesome, i can't quite remember though.

Huzzah, i may have a buyer out here, i'll ask him tomorrow or before friday ish, he works at the dealer, and i'm gonna show off the 88, so it could be sooner or later in the week.

as long as it dosn't over heat your fine.

adapter plate: 300-500 dollars Engine harness and computer 500-1000 dollars Misc stuff that adds up quick 100-300 dollars Knowing that the car has MPFI and 140 horsepower, and no more dreaded EA-82 timing belts. PRICELESS

Well, i'm still nowhere near done, but putting the engine in took about an hour and a half once the adapter plate got here. wiring was about 20 hours and fit and finish wiring i suspect will take another 10-15 hours. I'll be working on the car all day, if you want special picture requests give me a call 231-580 Sixty two Four Niner

Yo, 86, where in Ohio are you, i have the rear bearing tool that you speak of, if you're not too far from detroit maybe we could meet half way or somthin. it might still be cheaper to buy it though, 25 bucks isn't bad.

And if i ever find myself out west with some wire strippers and a soldering pen i'll be happy to wire up both your cars.