Flowmastered87GL

1987 GL - Moon Silver 1986 GL - Maroon 1986 GL-10 Turbo - Silver 1987 GL-10 Turbo - Tan 1988 GL - Red 1992 Loyale - Silver 1988 GL - White 1986 GL - Tan 1982 Brat - Silver (repaint OD green) 1982 Brat - Silver (repaint world rally blue) 1991 Legacy LS - Royal Blue 1998 Impreza L - Black 2005 Baja Sport - Regal Blue Pearl As you can see... of all my subarus, most have been silver. Only 2 have been blue. And dark blue at that

I dunno Richie has alot.... he even has the old school code reader and cartriges :cool:

Nope... you dont notice the 2x4 uprights extending up to hold the cord of wood in there?

I think its a good deal (retail wise) as the dealer I work at has an outback (non limited) auto with 98K (its a 1998) for $10995 asking price and when it went on sale it was still 8995. So regarding what dealers sell em for its not bad. But private party I bet you could find one cheaper. See if the head gaskets have been serviced!

At WCSS3 an XT6 had some V lug tractor tires on it

Hmmmm mine ONLY worked with the hi beams... maybe it was a model year thing, or maybe mine is backwards?

I'm diggin the 12 inches of clearance... same as my lifted brat

If I recall correctly on my 82's the cyclops only works when the brights are on. With the low beams it turns off. Maybe I just read Qman's description wrong, but it appeared backwards. So you get Lo beams or hi beams or High beams + center light

Wow, I think it looks pretty sweet. Ive never seen pugs on a gen 1 before.

ok my answer then.... yes $1450 is too much for a "DL", (oops sorry DL, not GL... DL, DL, DL ... sorry my brain is engrained with GL) (unless its cherry with like 60K on it)

Depends on the miles... if its over 100K, then yes I think thats too much for a DL. Also depends on teh climate.... if you are in a rust prone region and the car was rust free, regardless of the miles its gold. Here in Oregon Subarus are a dime a dozen and often a DL above $1000 can be hard to sell since there are so many GL's between $500 and $2000 (depending on mileage and equipment)

I agree that the front CV joints are probably going bad. I am parting out an 87 GL and the CV joints should work for it. They are nearly new (the cars engine blew up and it has 321 and a salvage title, not worth fixing) I second the recommendation of superior import repair. Any repairs over my head go straight to Richie. www.fixmysuby.com is their website (I think the hired webmaster hasnt changed the address on it) but the correct location is NE 82nd and Prescott. I think the actual address is 4443 NE 82nd Ave (but dont quote me on that) My 87 GL is leaking break fluid too (another reason why I am parting it) The leak slowed down when I swapped to rear disk brakes and changed the front calipers, but its still leaking. On mine I suspect the hill holder valve. On yours, either the rear brake cylinders or the front calipers (Mine dripped EVERYWHERE!) Note: Put a flowmaster on your car, it makes it sound mean

Hmmmm 2.2 liter diesel baja with dual range would be nice

When I replace rockers I do it with the engine on a rotisserie. I turn the engine 90 degrees so that gravity holds everything in place. I use lube of some sort on the parts too so as to avoid dry startup. But when the engine is upright you need some THICK stuff to hold it on there good.

Ed, was it the drivers rear? Thats the door I had issues with when I had the car here. Hard to belive you got locked out of that car since when you sold it to me it came with like 7 keys On how to get into the locked car, at the Shop one tuesday we locked ourselves out of a gen 2 GL. We fabbed a tool with a curve at the end... I think it was a piece of aluminum. We used a wood wedge to pull the glass away from the gasket, then slid the tool and used it to bump the door lock til it opened.

Richierich used to have an 84 brat with 75,000 on it. Where is moosens... I think he had like a 78 with 32K or something...

I think I have the mirrors off my 87 GL still laying around. $10 plus shipping for one, $15 plus shipping for both (total, not each). PM me if that sounds like a more reasonable amount to you. Shipping would be from 97206, probably parcel post (just pay actual shipping cost)

I have an example of this: I have a co-worker with an olds alero. The oil filter is internal of some kind (not a normal one, it cost $11 if you do it yourself, basically they made it different so you HAVE to take it to the dealer since its the same cost) The Auto tranny on the car has NO DIPSTICK! The manual says if its low, take it in for service. Period. Sorry but if I cant check my fluids, no way I'd buy it.

Sorry I be working every weekend... part of selling cars Otherwise I'd be there for you buddy

For those of us who dont speak Saab... is the linear the turbo or the non turbo? (2.5 RS or WRX basically)

I see blue valve covers too...so I guess EA81 or 71

Well my wife surprised me with a trip to the Oregon coast yesterday. Drove out to a rather secluded beach house between Cannon Beach and Manzanita. This was my first road trip in the Baja since getting it afew months ago. It was able to hold speed in cruise control over passes in 5th gear (on the straighter hills... I dont use cruise on tristies) Much more than I could say about my old GL.... I had to use 4th and sometimes 3rd gear on bad hills, especially to pass. I wish I had taken the camera, the driveway of the house was heavily wooded, the Baja looked so "in its element" parked there. My only gripe is no hill holder clutch (which the GL had) I accidentally burned the clutch lightly while turning around on a steep hill trying to find the house. I'm loving the baja though. I look forward to taking it to Arizona in March

At work today (I sell Kia's normally) I sold a 1997 Subaru Legacy L sedan. It came in as a trade in with only a COPY of the valet key. Therefore the only way to get in the trunk is fold down the seats or pull the release handle in the interior. I would like my customer to be happy and I told him I would find out how to get a REAL master key for him. Preferibly from Subaru. Now... I know some models you can get a key from the vin, others you can get from one of the locks. Who knows where is the best place to get the key code on a gen 2 (1997) legacy? And no I dont have the little key code tag, I checked the glovebox/manual and it wasnt there... the rest of the car was just detailed so that was the only possible place it could be. Contacting the previous owner of the car is not a practical option here. The car works fine as is, but I just want my customer to be able to use his trunk easier. I would send him to a locksmith only as a last resort. By the way I had to split the deal and I made $205 commission + a $100 spiff on it

If your car shows warm on the highway and not warm in town... in most cases that means that the radiator is on its way out.

Depends.... if rust is common in your area and the rockers and frame are rustfree, then it may be worth like $4000 or so in your area. If rust is NOT common (such as here in oregon) bed rust drops the value... maybe $1000 for it because of the rust... with rust and more miles... like $500 (say 150K and afew holes) Brat prices are all relative though... supply and demand changes them alot. Rust areas to watch for: Rear wheel wells, front of bed, rear of bed (especially if muffler is missing!) rocker panels, firewall.