Flowmastered87GL

Man, with flying colors! Only up to 231K? Keep going!

I had THOUGHT the old black diamond floating around was #27. For some reason I swear it was a 2dr coupe.

2 ways that wont hurt the car. #1. Wear the belt #2. Get an extra buckle from a junkyard and buckle the BELTLESS buckle into the receptical to THINK you are buckled in. #3. Hack up the wiring, but the air bags may not work right if you do that. I'd lean towards #2 if you dont want to wear the belt there. I wouldnt go hacking up the wiring.

Careful when you hit 300K...mine happed RIGHT AT a photo-radar station. Fortunately I was going like 20 MPH (in a 35) because I was busy watching the numbers more than the road

I dont see any rust!

I think.... you hold down the DISP button when its showing the time and use the tune up and down buttons to move the time. Thats how the tape deck in my GL was (which was taken from a 98 OBS)

Hmmm is that the RED interior? []D [] []V[] []D !!!! I call the red interior the pimp interior because it looks like something you might find in a cadillac. I like the lift, wheel and tire combo too.

Alot of people have been thinking about it... its just hard to figure out where to cut the old bumper off. I belive the bumper skin actually goes all the way around the bottom up to where the mudflaps are. So you would most likely have to cut it somewhere, or have the tube bumper wrap WAY around.

So it runs good now... of course its worth $300... even if it had 400,000 miles on it, a running rust free subaru still has a certain value to it. Glad to hear you got it running. If you decide to keep it, consider swapping the timing belts and the oil pump seals if you cant find any record of when it was last done.

I see your car has AC.... most likely it has the inboard AC compressor and outboard alternator. My instructions are based upon that. There are 2 belts, only 1 of them goes around the alternator. The one that DOESNT go around the alternator is tensioned by the little idler pully down by the water pump. Its kind of a pain when the alternator is there to tighten it up right... but it is possible. The other belt is tensioned by swinging the alternator up and down. I usually stick a 14mm open ended wrench on the back side of the long bolt going through the alternator, tighten up the belt, then tighten down the bolts. Genuine belts normally fit perfect. Non-genuine belts sometimes seem to be too small.. you may need to go up a size (say if its a 990 MM get a 995... these are numbers I just made up, but you get the idea)

I had an 87 GL with an upgraded carb and coil (aside from the exhaust) I had installed a 2.0 ID pipe to the Y cat, 2.25 ID to the muffler, and 2.5 out. It was a flowmaster 40 series delta flow muffler. Pros: Louder (tended to intimidate older modified hondas ) More top end power More HP peak Cons: Louder Less bottom end power Made me a bit of a cop magnet Cost like $425 + the cost of the muffler because I had it done at a really nice place.

If you have em... use em. I drove home today from Mall 205 to 50th and Powell... took like 25-30 minutes because the hills were super dangerous (even though little) Running around on this packed down junk when it ices up with normal all season tires is not too fun. Taking off and spinning all 4 tires is though I suggest studded tires, studless winter tires (blizzaks or something) or chains. Just keep an eye on the rearview mirror to make sure some soccer mom in an SUV doesnt rear end you at a red light.

2 words Jack Stands Your life is worth it. (In elementary school a classmates dad was crushed by the family car because he had it up in a similar position)

OR sell em on e-bay and make back the $$ you spent on the seats

From the pics there it looks like you could fix the "bad" tailgate wagon with a quick trip to the bodyshop. Given the rareness of the car... I'd get it fixed.

I agree, forget the carb. My modified (full exhaust, coil, and carb) carbed EA82 felt like it was just BARELY faster than a bone stock fuel injected model. With exhaust, an accel coil and a K&N filter (or cone air filter) should liven it up. A 5 speed will probably make the biggest difference though.

Right here... I live in SE near Foster and Powell (where they meet) I represent with a 2005 Baja and a 1982 Brat :cool:

I have a timing belt tensioner tool that you can BORROW if you need it. You need to tension the timing belts to around 18 foot pounds (to the LEFT with a torque wrench) before you tighten up the bolts on the tensioners. PM me if you need it. If by chance Kayakertom will be there, I could pass the tool onto him with some CV's and stuff I am selling him this weekend.

Pro's Lots of Subarus. Closer to WCSS. No sales tax Easier smog standards (if any... I think you have em in salem) Cooler weather (its not THAT cold... my baja said it only got down to like 37 this morning I think. You can actually commute without using the freeway if you want to. Cheaper gas AND a high school educated kid (if that) pumps it for you. (Just make sure to hop out and make sure they clicked the cap on tight.) Job opportunity If you like beer, we have ALOT of microbrews up here. If you dont.... you will make alot of friends by being the DD Con's State income tax Portland is better than Salem (more u - pull - its up here in portland) Cooler weather (if you dont like it) The morons at the gas station rarely seem to tighten my gas cap enough. Hmmm more pro's... better move up here

There are 3 types of clutches. The small 2WD EA81 type... also found on 82 brats I know for sure (cause mine had one) There is the larger 83+ 4WD clutch for EA81's that you have. There is the EA82 clutch which should be the same from 85-94 I believe. Perault makes a good clutch... I have em in all my cars.

I agree that the front axle is probably going out. Back when my old axles were going out the car would shake bad under load. (like going up a mountain pass) It was ok otherwise... finally ANY load made is shake bad (enough that I had to pop it in 4WD here and there around town to take some load off the front when going straight) I also had a rear driveshaft (from tranny to rear diff) go out (hey the car had over 300K) and that just shook the whole car. Since the shaking feels to be from the front, I say front axle.

Huh? YOu didnt use my sweet rally blue intake? It adds like 50 HP

I know caboobaroo has lowered 2 gen 1 cars (a beerwagon and a brat)... so maybe he can offer some tidbits of how he did it.

I run Nokian Hakkipellita tires. I forget if I have the 10's or the 1's... one is slightly better than the other but they both are great!

Hmmm did afew rough caluations at the gas station today... 5.2 or so gallons... around 35 miles.. (larger tires on the car, so I probably drove 40-something miles really. But thats 6.7 MPG x the multiplier for the tires... Now.... why do I think its so low? I spilled ALOT of gas changing the fuel filter and the vapor separator, AND the carb was just rebuilt. Also the fuel line that goes in the top of the separator is leaking a bit... just afew drips here and there, but it adds up. Gonna change it monday. I'm hoping for at LEAST 15 MPG before tire multiplier. Hopefully I dont spill too much when I change that fuel line so as to keep the calculations as accurate as possible. What is everyone else getting with webered EA81's with big tires? (engine is tuned up and carb was rebuilt so I think my leakage is the only problem here... the car runs great)