Flowmastered87GL

I use a big rubber craftsman strap wrench. I just make it as tight as I can, pull in one direction and pull the breaker bar in the other direction. Back behind there is the cam seal AND an o-ring that goes on the seal housing that unbolts (with 2 bolts)

Likely you blew the little water hose that goes between the intake and the block. Very hard to reach, but its usually the first to go. IF you have a turbo... you have ALOT of them to blow. But generally on non turbo's thats the culprit. (it goes out the top front of the engine up towards the thermostat housing)

Put it on a chain and wear it around your neck the G is for Gangsta :cool:

Classic (360 FF1 and such) Gen 1, Gen 2, Gen 3 (include brats and stuff with gen 1 and 2 in my opinion) Legacy/Baja XT/SVX class Gen 1 impreza, Gen 2 impreza (02+) I guess it depends on how big you think it will be? You could separate the legacy out a bit (like gen 1-2 and gen 3-4-baja), put brats on their own, add Justy, give the baja its own class Or just have a miscellanous class for stuff like justy, tribeca, baja... all the "other" later model stuff that just doesnt fit in.

I believe I have seen them. They may have been 14" but they were the (usually) white ones with grey bumpers. BASE BASE models.... I swear I saw one with loyale hubcaps on it though.... hense the 13" rims. They WERE on FWD models just to let you know. I dont know if they would clear though. My mom's OBS has 14" rims (stock) and thats the smallest ive ever seen fitted on an AWD model. maybe go into les schwab as ask for a test fit?

You mean like this kinda?

Sweet

I agree with the others. Dont try to retrofit to your car. It was designed to be crashworthy as-is. If you feel the need for an airbag. Upgrade to a 1990+ legacy or 1993+ Impreza (some models have bags, some dont so check the wheel for the airbag or SRS markings)

IF its not rusty and its SOHC and no blown head gaskets... probably not too bad a deal. If I recall the DOHC is the ones that were prone to blowing gaskets. If the title is salvage, also not too good a deal. Mileage isnt too bad as long as gaskets are good in the engine and the tranny shifts good.

If the bed isnt rusty... welding back onto the floor is easy. Just pop off an access panel, scrape some paint, hook up the welder, weld, touch up the paint, re-install panel to cover the touch up. It really was THAT simple on my good 82 brat. My other one was too rusty to put jump seats in safely. If you need new seat mounts fabbed they can be made as well. If the part ON the seats needs to be done use the good one as a pattern to make new parts for the bad. The base that welds to the bed isnt much more than 3 tubes that are U shaped with angle iron bridging across them.

4-5 hours would get you from eugene to hood river. Though if you wanted to I bet you could just stop in portland and see either the clackamas area or scappoose or something. Maybe talk to the guys from allied armament... they arent too far out of town.

Yes the hoods are the same. The doors are the same except that the glass is different between a brat and a hatch. Wagon and sedan doors wont fit at all! (too short)

5

"but if you are worried about rock chips" Yep... sorry I am on the Baja :-\ And I would likely be coming after work... so the quickest way is the best.

Hmmm now thats a neat idea... fold em, dont cut em. Saves you from having a sharp edge and wont let em rattle around as much.

You dont recognize that grill because its on a toyota... he just has the suby emblem on there.

Gonna paint the lettering red on the tires to match?? They have little paint markers for your tires for that

Close.... if I had photoshop I would tinker with it a bit more.... try painting the bumpers too and the little 1 inch groove above the black trim too. That looks good too, but having both next to each other may help make the decision easier. I still like that pic though

I like the blue one the best, but the green is nice too. I second the idea of bringing up the paint to the body line (so above the black trim) Then just follow that line up and over the wheels. Also... paint the bottoms of the bumpers. The top on the 87-89 models was painted on the bottom and black on the top.

Hmmm maybe the coolant level is low that when the front is facing down and the engine is over load all the coolant goes into the radiator and the water pump cant pull enough of it? When its face up gravity kinda feeds the water pump? Just a theory, I've never experienced anything like that... though I DO know about GL's breaking traction in FWD with cheap tires (my GL's stock tires when I bought it were junk)

I would repair it. For an idea of what it may be worth... I was about to get around $1200 for each of my 88 GL's with 220-250K on them with fresh head gaskets, timing belts, and oil seals and such. This was like 2 years ago... this being a newer car... I would expect to get $1500 if its REALLY nice, most likely around $1000, or if its nasty inside, like $750. From the pics I would bank most on the 1250-1000 range. PS I have a timing belt tensioning tool if you need to borrow it.

Make sure to insulate the unused wires well plus make sure the choke wire is on there nice and tight. Mine came free once and made be blow a fuse :-\

Its not too bad of a job. I had richie do mine on my GL. I have done afew other CV joints for others and I have had issues sometimes and no issues others. Most of the ones I have done are GL and Gen 1 legacy's. with a BIG breaker bar and a jackstand... its not too bad. Usually shops seem to charge an average hourly rate for the CV's Sometimes it takes more, sometimes less. Depends on how siezed up the roll pin is and if the bearings pop out with the CV or other hidden issues arise.

just got back home... sorry looks like I took too long. Glad you found one

I have one. I may be able to swing by and drop it off if I have time. The wife is about to go on vacation so I may be super busy. I will try to get back online in the morning to check on this thread if time permits.