Flowmastered87GL

Happened to my GL years ago.... I just replaced the calipers. (and rotors because I cooked em)

ya its the front that usually rubs.... the body seam especially... just pound it flat against the body.

You should have to BFH and trim the fenders... trust me. They may not rub now... but flex it a bit and I am sure it will. Looks great though

there are alot of us in the portland/couve area. You already met me, but no way I am off roading the baja... its too purdy I have to work weekends anyway... so although I once had a lifted brat, I never had a chance to wheel it, so I sold it

Worst... 3 broke. Best... 0 broke

I've got a welder... wanna try to weld on some extra braces? You could pick up your radiator at the same time

If it loosens up on you, I found that on my GL, it sometimes helped to put some RTV sealant (black or orange worked... I prefer blackish grey stuff though) on the exhaust gaskets. Use a 14MM deep socket to put the studs/nuts on. Careful not to strip out the cylinder head though. PS, im the guy who helped fix it today

The one for my rusty ugly green brat came from MS glass over on Canyon Road in Beaverton. They swapped it out and did a great job for like $95 I think (parts and labor) Since the brat was kinda rusty they had to leave a bead of black silicone kinda oozing out of where the gasket met the body though.... but it didnt leak anymore! I still would recommend them as it looked WAY better with the fresh new gasket. They even kept all the chrome in good shape, didnt mangle it or tell me I had to buy a new set or anything. PS Been a long time! The brat is FINALLY sold, the GL blew up at 321K and I am now pimping around a 2005 Baja "NU BRAT" is the plate

I agree, I almost bought a cherry 88 white RX back in high school (so in like 1997-8 or so) $5995, had like 58K on it, and had fresh seals, axle boots and timing belts. Sure enough, very light rust down on each side of the rear smugglers box (which my wagon didnt have, so that kinda turned me off on it... and the throttle was kinda touchy around town)

I believe that a coin should work... we use 25 cent coins (quarters) up here to block them off.

I think you hit it.... older early 90's range rover! Notice the side markers? THey are on the fenders and not on the black side pieces of the bumpers :-\

Car is since parted out... but 87 GL, weber carb, upsized exhaust, 5 speed DR, part time 4WD. 3:90 gears. 22 or so MPG city, 30 or so highway.

I have personally seen an EA82 woody wagon before. Its hard to remember the specifics of how the decals were applied as it was MANY years ago. I belive it was on an 85 GL 4WD wagon. I am pretty sure it was a dark grain with a lighter grain boarder. No clue if it was subaru factory option or aftermarket. I am sure the car is long since crushed. It was at some place like Stans auto wrecking in Stevenson Washington I think.

Sweet, lets see some pics :cool:

I dunno if they would clear the front brakes :-\

Ya, when it arrived at the mudpit at dusk, I swear everyone became silent and got out of the way so it could play... the line waiting to play in the mud got out of the way and the XT6 went straight in

Sweet Beer garden again? (for those 21 and older of course)

I prefer gloss white unless you want to color match em to the car. Either way looks pretty good. Black can look ok, but only on some colored cars.

I believe the 3rd row seat is supposed to be small. Its kid zone.

Must be a chevy mechanic or something.... the subaru engine is NATURALLY balanced so it doesnt need external balancing. For timing belts and bearings on the tensioners and stuff... eh, ok price, I say too much personally unless they are doing the oil and water pump and oil seals too. Dont scrap it for timing belts... they need to be done every 55-60K I broke 2 sets in my 87 GL (wont hurt anything, just leaves you walking to a phone)

I've used my engine stand with 2 bolts (the top of the bell housing) and nuts on them... just finger tight.... then I slide the 2 studs on the bottom of the engine into the bottom of the 2 holes... I dont bother with nuts on those because the studs are too short to put a nut on with the current mounts on my stand. Ive had EA82's and 81's on there with no, some or all of their accessories and never had a problem yet. I HAVE on the other hand cracked a bell housing on an EA81 trying to use a breaker bar to keep the flywheel from turning so we could change the front main seal. We gave up and left it after it cracked... the seal wasnt leaking anyway.

In my 87 GL... twist counter clockwise... comes right off. Never been stuck on any of my D/R cars. My brats on the other hand... wouldnt budge!

There should be a manual override button under the dash somewhere. Its SUPPOSED to be up by the hood release. You will have to remove the lower kick panel to get to it. I dont know the exact procedure to get the alarm to turn off. But with no remote you will need to find that button.

Being in Seattle I would guess rust wouldnt be an issue. If by chance there IS rust, $100 tops in my opinion. If it cranks and doesnt start sometimes, reduce the value of it for that too. If you just think it needs a new starter, thats an easy fix. Try showing up with $400 cash and an extra $100 in your sock or something. They may jump on the $400 and then you can spend the $100 on a starter and a case of beer

its FWD versus 4WD. the FWD is lighter and may be geared better. It may be also in better tuned up condition.