Flowmastered87GL

Uhhh I think 56 is pretty cheap... I think a new one is well over $100

My fiancee Shannon and I will be there 1 day. I may have to bring her home to work, but I will be there the whole time for sure. (so 2 one day, 1 the other) My parents will be coming also to watch the rallycross on Sunday, but they wont there for the show (even though my moms 96 OBS could totally clean up as best stock Impreza... 50,000 miles and its a 96!!)

What Jason means is: He has an EA81 parts car that he is cutting up (no title so its gotta be scrapped) Anyway it has Power Steering. It was unhooked when he had the car delivered so who knows if it works, but everything is there...

I recently switched my 87 EA82 over from a DGEV to a DFEV... both electric choke, both 32/36, but yes the DFEV is smaller slightly... mileage is a bit better though and I really dont feel a speed difference (still feels as fast) I asked the support people where I bought it and they said it uses 135 jets as opposed to the 140's in the DGEV. The mirror image made it VERY simple to rig up to an EA82 with power steering... all I did was have the little throttle cable thingie welded onto the part of the carb that bolts on and rotates, bolted it on and hooked up the cable... I dunno if I get full WOT, but its good enough.

I paid like $25 for my EA81 adapter from bow-wow... In my opinion its easier to buy it from them than to have someone make it and have the risk of it not fitting.

Yanking the cam housing once you get the valve cover really isnt all THAT hard... should be 10 bolts I belive on the disty side.. maybe 9. May be ideal just to replace the cam and housing as a complete unit from someones parts engine.

Hitachi carbs like to crap out after afew years and make the car run aweful. There are some good ones out there, but mine never got me much better than 25 MPG. (get low 30's highway with a weber) Head gaskets like to blow (or even heads will crack) if you overheat the engine badly enough. Watch the gauge and you will be fine though. Lifters love to tick.. sometimes a new oil pump works sometimes you have to swap the lifters. Oil leaks... ya they leak, but every 60K service do ALL the oil seals and it shouldnt be a problem. My car only leaves 1 puddle and its PS fluid, NOT motor oil. The water pumps sometimes have a short life... get a good perault or subaru one and they last longer though. For some reason people seem to have problems with timing belts breaking... sure ive broken 2 sets in my car over the last 7 years but I drive my car hard and rack up alot of miles. Change em every 60K with genuine subaru belts and you should be fine. I have goodyear belts in mine right now so I am gonna swap em after 55K... 2 changes later that would put me right on 400K They are good engines, juut take care of em. My two 1988 projects cars had 226K and 266K each and all I had to do was take em apart, reseal em (including head gaskets) and put em back together and they ran wonderfully. Good compression and no leaks.

We have a new wallpaper!! :cool:

Just ignore the 2 lines coming off the drivers side they ARE for an auto tranny cooler. You dont have to plug em or anything, just ignore them. If it bolts in its the right one (I got one that didnt bolt in once) The main thing that counts there is the lower radiator hose... the one on my loyale was odd... it came straight back, not up like that one (and all of em) should. So it looks right for an EA82

I need a favor of someone I can reasonably trust. In this situation I need someone to deliver a check to "The Scooby" at Aaron's Auto Wrecking and pick up the KYB Struts for me and hold on to them til I can get up to the Seattle Area. I'll pass afew bucks your way for your trouble/gas for helping out. Ed? Austin? Tex? Matt? (trying to think who else I know up there that may live close) I'd prefer to do this with someone I've met before so I know you wont run off with my struts

I'm saying your bed is in BETTER shape than mine. the bulkhead against the body is better, but the flat part of the bed has bigger holes.

I cant make it. I have a midterm on Tuesday, I still need to finish the BRAT, still have some woodworking to do for Shannon... I still dont trust my car fully anyway and I need it for work/school. (since the brat is only half lifted its not a suitable backup yet) So I'm sitting this one out

I think Rick can back me up on this as he has seen my bed... You got nothing on my brat I'm gonna repair mine too though

What he said. I am still in the process of installing your lift on my BRAT and find it to be beautifully made. You have my 100% brand loyalty regardless if you call em the BYB that they really are, or PK's for well constructed lift kits

Well the 185/80's have something to do with the jack not working... the factory size is 185/70 which is like an inch smaller I think... the factory jack is barely enough for stock tires... therefore not enough for taller ones...

I hope so! If it is I'm swapping diffs with my wagon and then reselling the car (XT)

I found an 89 XT AWD in the paper here for REALLY cheap... like under $400... I am just wondering... what XT was made in 89?? I know the XT6 was... hopefully its one with just blown air suspension. Could it just be an MPFI XT4??

I only got the brat up to 80 or so... I havnt really touched the engine yet since it runs good but I didnt wanna push my luck not really knowing how old the hoses were (gonna change em when the lift is done) The RPMS werent maxxed but they were high enough... Had the 87 up to 103 before but had to slow down for traffic...

I didnt see any need to filter anything, the word filter is automatic. I rarely have to regulate over there... swearing here and there that makes it past the filter and stuff thats off topic... thats about it... You probably have the answers to most of the questions over there it looks like. Makes it easier on me, I dont have to keep sending people over here for everything that I dont know and no one else replies to

I'm doing my nightly thread inspection of the old school forum right now... I saw you on there on EVERY thread Fox... better be good

The inside out idea is probably the easiest... turn some wagon wheels backwards with some bald tires!

The strangest thing... The bolts are indeed 1.25... but the 4 nuts that hold on the bracket for the mustache bar are not... I got a 1.25 but (that fits the long bolts!) and it didnt fit the short ones I pulled out... I already have 3 out of 4 of the access holes in the bed for replacing the captive nuts so I am just gonna go that route... an 18 cent nut is cheaper than a super high grade bolt. Not sure why my brat had odd pitch nuts in the rear frame rails :-\

Well today it was fine... I intimidated afew hondas and had no problem. Maybe it was the choke wire / just an old fuse... Hopefully... If it blows again im checking the coil. When Craig and I changed the cap/rotor the disty seemed rather tight, though it wouldnt hurt to check it again though. So for now we wait...

another thing that can cause overheating... a blown head gasket... when mine was blown exhaust gases got into the coolant stream and made it super hot. if I wasnt moving I had to turn off the car and I had to run the heater at all times.

Well today my 87 died on me... took me 5 minutes of fiddling to figure out the 15 amp fuse under the dash for the ignition circuit was blown and therefore keeping me from getting spark. A new fuse later and it fired right up. The car runs good now, but the tach jumps a bit (say from 3000 to 3250 or 3500) and also from 4000 to 4500... usually when I am accelerating hard under load. The car does NOT feel like its surging at all, its all just in the behavior of the needle. It had done this a couple of times before the fuse blew too. Now... when the fuse was blown I noticed that the choke wire had popped off and was sitting on the engine (grounding out probably...) (I soldered it on, when I got home so it hopefully will stay put) So... does the electric choke work off the ignition circuit? Did the fuse blow because of the choke wire? Or because the coil is screwing up (see specs below) or because of the disty? Specs on the car: 1987 GL 4WD 49 state model (no O2 sensor) weber 32/36 DFEV carb, clip on type disty cap (new), new rotor, new wires and plugs (all genuine subaru too) I belive its the original disty with 290,800+ miles on it. Coil is an accel yellow $27.99 type. Any guesses? I can handle the tach jumping as long as the car runs good... its just im scared its gonna blow the fuse again (I have 6 with me just in case though...) I know when the tach jumps in EA81's its usually time for a disty rebuild, but I've never heard about EA82's None of this EVER happened before I did the major tuneup (cap rotor and such)