GeneralDisorder

Coolant flows through the intake manifold. You need gaskets - get them from the dealer. GD

I use a lot of aftermarket belts that don't have marks. The fitment between brands of belts can be quite a bit different and can throw people off that aren't used to all the variations. Basically my rule of thumb is that if I can move any sprocket one tooth and it will be *more* correct than it is - I will. If the distance between the marks on the sprockets and the marks on the belt cover/oil pump is less than the width of one belt tooth - run it. You simply can't get it any closer - half a tooth is not possible as your smallest adjustment is a full belt tooth. If you are within half a tooth on all the marks it's as correct as it's going to be. Also note that the *plastic* belt covers have a certain amount of play in their mounting bolts and they also tend to sag and melt if the engine is overheated. So it's not unusual for them to be slightly off. Put a straightedge on the pulley such that you are lined up between the mark and the center of the cam pulley bolt - if it's straight up and down - it's good. GD

Are you absolutely sure the torque converter was fully seated into the transmission prior to installing the engine? These are notoriously hard to install properly and improper installation can damage the transmission fluid pump that is driven by the TC..... GD

Connector pinouts are the same. The orphan vacuum lines can be capped. They deal with front vs. rear mounted carbon canistors. Not a big deal. Will not cause a CEL and can be ignored. Coil should be compatible if you get '98 EJ22 plug wires.... if you are wanting to use the EJ25D's "male" coil..... or use the EJ22's existing coil and use '95 EJ22 plug wires for a "female" coil. GD

You probably want to use the belt marks.... they are usually correct. Most likely you aren't taking into acount how much slack will be drawn out of the driver's side cam pulley when the tensioner is pushed to the right, locked down, and the pin removed. Generally the passenger side cam and the crank are put directly on the marks, then the drivers side cam is left slightly turned so that when the tensioner is released it is pulled into alignment. Also make sure the arrows on the belt are indicating clockwise rotation of the belt. GD

2.5 intake doesn't bolt to the 2.2 - can't do that. Cam/crank pulley's aren't going to matter - they will be compatible. GD

You don't need a press. The FWD service kit from HF works quite well. It's about $100 and the wheel bearing itself is about $25 - about another $20 for the seals if you need them. In addition to the HF set you may also need a small two or three jaw puller to remove the outboard inner race from the hub. The job can be done on the car without removing the knuckle. Working carefully it usually takes me about two hours to change one out. Save yourself some green and don't wimp out over a little wheel bearing job. GD

What gears does it pop out of and/or is it popping into neutral on the D/R shifter? Need more info really. There is not a seperate transfer case on a Subaru. The low range is accomplished by splitting the input shaft at the front of the transmission. GD

You may have to notch the frame rails for the EJ251..... but that's not a huge deal really if you can weld a bit. Bit of die-grinding.... little welding.... some rattle can. Propane Frankenmotor! I like where your heads at. Though I will caution that the stock ECU on the '94 will not particularly like the frankenmotor with cams.... I have never looked into it closely but it seems to me that an ECU from a 96 to 99 could be installed if you added the wireing for the OBD-II port (like three or four wires - two of which are power and ground) and the rear O2 sensor..... doesn't seem like it would be that difficult as they really are very simlar. GD

I will also toss in with the no-cover crowd UNLESS you see a lot of deep snow in the winter, or do a lot of off-roading..... and be careful not to drop a rag into the belts - they WILL break . It also concerns me that your covers are melted.... that would indicate overheating which on your engine usually means the head gaskets are suspect. Just an FYI. GD

What did you set the valve adjustment to when the heads were rebuilt? GD

That deal IS around still - as far as I know they are going to continue selling the reman alts at that price due to the recall.... anyone affected by the recall but outside their warranty period still gets the cheap price on the reman alts. I see them constantly. I just bought one about a month ago and my dealer says they still stock two of them at all times. It really is sad that uninformed consumers and shops do folks the diservice of installing aftermarket alts when these are so cheap and availible. The one I bought last month went into a neighbor's car who had a shop install a NAPA reman 6 months prior. She paid well over double for that one plus and an hour labor for installation. GD

You would be much better off getting a system from a '93 or '94 because they are already setup for R134A. The 90 through 92 cars used R12 and their hoses, etc are not rated for R134A. If you are saying your Legacy never had AC..... you are going to have to pull the dash to install the evaporator, it's plastic container, and the condensate drain. GD

Everything but the cam/crank seals can be transfered to the next engine.... nothing will be unusable except $20 worth of seals. Much easier to do it before dropping it in. GD

DO NOT USE head gasket sealer in a bottle. Repair in a bottle will not work on Subaru engines correctly and in any case it's more likely to clog the radiator or heater core. First off - the fact that the lower radiator hose is staying cold and the temp gauge shows lower than half....indicates to me that there's probably no thermostat or a gutted thermostat in place in the water pump. This is often used as a band-aid for bad head gaskets. The timing belt/water pump replacement is very, very simple. Drain/pull the radiator, pull the covers, and replace the belt/idlers/cam+crank seals, and water pump. When you do so - check out the thermostat. If it's gutted or missing - just pull the engine and replace the head gaskets. The check engine light could be on for hundreds of reasons - we aren't mind readers. Buy a code reader and find out why it's on. GD

BOV will not reduce wear on the turbo and is a stupid, stupid, stupid way to make noise and reduce the performance of your engine. Modern Subaru's use a recirc system for a reason - upgrade to a TMIC and recirc valve combo - best things you can do for that engine's longevity along with replacing all the coolant lines. GD

Weld a nut to what remains of the stud(s) then use that to attempt removal. You may have to rinse/repeat a dozen times or so but eventually the hot/cold cycles will free it. Otherwise.....Center punch the stud and use a left-hand drill bit. The LH bit has a better chance of grabbing and unthreading the broken stud. Once you have a hole - apply a heli-coil in your favorite size (10mm x 1.25 is nominal) and move on. New studs are about $1 each at the dealer. DO NOT buy the nuts there. Rediculous priceing. A block of wood and some sandpaper will cleanup the exhaust gasket surface on the heads. GD

Do a standard timing belt/water pump job on it and see how things go. If the thermostat has been removed or gutted that's a typical sign of head gasket failure. The fact that the lower hose is cold is a sure sign of trouble. Subaru's do not mix coolant and oil when the gaskets fail. They pressureize the cooling system with exhuast gasses in nearly 100% of EJ22 and EJ25D HG failures. GD

You don't need a lift and most yards will have the cars high enough to drop a tranny or will roll it on it's side with a forklift, etc.... usually if you just talk to them they can make it accesible for you. You don't need a lift to put one in. Just a jack and something to jack the car up onto (6 ton jack stands are inexpensive at Harbor Freight). Prohibitively expensive. Minimum of $1000 to rebuild one and typically it's more like $1500. The parts alone will be around $800 typically. To rebuild a transmission you need at LEAST a press, proper bearing splitters, etc. Besides normal hand tools of course. The good news is that the D/R transmissions typically last the life of the car - not unusual for them to last half a million miles without failure. If they aren't abused and someone changes the gear oil every 100k or so. GD

Yep - probably aren't going to cause much more damage than already exists. GD

The stock Hitachi can run pretty much stripped down - but you have to be careful about how you hookup stuff and if you have one that needs the feedback computer there are some serious challenges for most mechanics. I'm fairly confident that with a wideband O2 sensor and some trial & error I could orifice the metering ports well enough that it would run pretty decent overall. I don't expect most people that would want to try and run the Hitachi have that kind of equipment or skill though. GD

Replace or grease up the u-joint between the steering column and the rack. Some of the joint is rusted and binding. GD

A bad slave will not cause slipping. If it's slipping then the clutch is bad. The pedal sticks to the floor when there is air in the system. It's a complex little system actually and hard to describe. After you have bled a few and changed enough slaves you get a "feeling" for how they work..... but your problem is not the slave. GD

I have the neccesary documents to strip the OBD-II harnesses.... as Chux does. Some of them I think I got from his site in the first place actually . For the most part you don't really need too much documentation - especially if you label connectors as you disconnect them on the donor car. I have a more tedious time when I strip harnesses for people because they never label the plugs. After a while you begin to recognize them on sight and it's a lot easier..... generally speaking on the OBD-II harnesses.... if it's a water-tight plug on the engine bay side you will probably be keeping it..... I start by removing large sections of the harness that I know I won't need - stuff on the dash side that's obviously gauge cluster and steering column wireing.... any wires that head back into the ECU bundle I leave as long as I can. From there it's just a matter of following the wires from each plug that you think can be removed and deciding if any of them go to the ECU and if so what their function is and if you want to keep them or not. That's where the ECU pin-out's and voltage charts come in handy. That's pretty much all I use - diagrams that show the ECU pin numbers, wire colors, and functions, and the ECU pin-voltage charts. GD

Best way is to pull the engine. Better way is to push it off a cliff and forget you ever saw the EA82T. Poor excuse for an engine in the opinion of most around this board. GD