GeneralDisorder

Rob - how many EA82T's did you build? Did you ever do a valve adjustment on one? EA81 and EA82 hydro lifters are ENTIRELY different. Apples and Oranges. GD

That's just wrong for soooo many reasons. Stick with the EA81 or move up to an EJ. Nothing to gain with an EA82 and it won't fit right between the frame rails. GD

No oil pressure is bad - though if it ran for 20 minutes then I doubt it had *no* oil pressure. Being it was severely overheated I would guess that it's got a failed sending unit and/or wireing to said unit. Snapped t-belt.... well did you replace them? Could just have been ready to go. Inspect things closely - check that the oil pump turns, etc. Reseal it as Rob mentioned above. Not sure what lifter adjustment Rob is refering to. I've not met the EA82 that had adjustable lifters and I wouldn't want to either considering where they are located and how much of a *************** it must be to adjust said units. I wouldn't worry much about warped heads - they don't usually warp enough to matter and the book specs are overly cautious about it. On a non-turbo I would settle for no cracks and a decent surface finish. It's an EA82 - not a swiss watch. GD

Sounds like you have wireing issues. GD

A ratcheting 10mm wrench makes short work of the driver's side valve cover. I usually pull the engine - because I am tired of leaning over engine bays. But I've done lots of them without pulling them. Just not anymore - EJ's are much harder to do without pulling and I don't work on much EA stuff outside of my personal stuff anymore. GD

The procedure for the hydro's is pretty simple. You turn it over till the valve is closed, tighten the adjuster a couple turns past zero-point, wait 5 minutes or so and then back it off till its just barely tight. Use the same procedure you would for a SBC. It's not difficult. GD

Hhhmmm - the chart I have doesn't show any differences in ratio between the two - but the tire size is definitely different. The 2WD's used 175/70R13's while the 4WD's used 185/70R13's - 2WD DL's ran 165 or 155 IIRC. Even smaller yet. Tires have to match transmission or your speedo will be off - which will throw off all your economy calculations as well. Installing a 2WD tranny is a much cleaner option than removing the 4WD components alone. It wil further reduce weight as well. GD

As a first-timer and one is not very familiar with engine swaps, you will NOT be able to do an EJ swap for under $1000. With experience, lots of parts, lots of tools, etc - maybe right around that. I know I would be hard pressed to do an EJ22 swap into a Loyale for under $1000 in a short time-frame. Give me a few months to collect parts, barter, haggle, etc - possible certainly. But for you it is very unlikely. You should do the head gaskets - they aren't hard and the engine doesn't have to come out. Just pull the heads, have them milled ($30 to $40 per) and put them back on with new Fel-Pro gaskets ($15 each). Should run less than $250 for all the parts as well as new water pump, timing belt kit, seals and gaskets, etc. GD

On a windsheild?!? As in the one in the FRONT of the car? WTH? I've never seen defrost lines on a windsheild before - have I totally missed something that's availible in some arctic package somewhere? AFAIK Subaru does not offer that option nor would there be any wireing present for such a thing. GD

If you really want improvment from going to 2WD then you need to install a 2WD transmission - the final drive ratio/tire size is much more favorable for mileage. Losing the 4WD stuff is troublesome and only a half-measure that won't gain you nearly as much as changing to a more favorably geared transmission. Take it a step farther and do all these mods to a 2WD 5 speed, non-turbo XT. GD

The lock system needs adjusting. Pull the door card and take a look. GD

No it does not. The advance is the same. FSM has the curves in it. GD

If it's been sitting for a while the pump might fail to kick on. Though that's pretty rare with those. I'm assuming it's an SPFI/MPFI rotary style fuel pump? Hate to say it but the quickest way to figure this out is to check for power at the fuel pump connector while the test mode connectors are plugged in and the relay is cycling..... There is an intermittant connector set behind the passenger side kick-panel - but it's several very large connectors with many pins. And it wouldn't tell you if there's a problem with the wiring back at the pump, etc. I don't know where the fuel pump ground is connected but very likely it's connected to one of the harness ground "busses". If the pump didn't have a good ground then likely other things would be affected as Subaru tends to tie lots of grounds together within the harness. GD

Drain the gear oil and count the ring gear teeth. It's pretty simple with a flashlight..... GD

Agreed - it takes an almost imperceptible amount of play for these to starting doing really funny things. The jumping tach and power loss is a typical sign of impending doom. If there isn't any permanent damage to the reluctor or pickup then it can still be saved. GD

Yeah - that ball bearing just hanging around inside the cap is a bad sign. That part can be had from a used distributor though - those are a much less common failure than the bushings. GD

Yeah - Philbin Group - http://www.philbingroup.com/ You can also get the bushings and install them yourself. Though there might be some machine work that has to be done - not sure if the bushings are honed to the correct size after install or purchased that way. A small brake-cylinder hone could be used to finish hone some off-the-shelf oilite bushings. Probably be a couple bucks each from mcmasters and a 10 or 20 spot for a cheap brake hone. GD

EA81T's had mechanical fans off the water pump like the EA82. In fact it's probably a very simlar water pump to the EA81T. GD

The stock dome light is poorly designed. You can just leave the cover off or you can find a dome light assembly from a STD model hatchback that has the clear lens. They are rare though. GD

Why the need for 6 cylinders? There's plenty of H4's with as much or more power and the parts are cheaper plus they are easier to work on. Seems like a poor choice for a daily unless you are moving up in the world and don't mind dropping that kind of money. GD

The problem is the depth that it is driven in to. If you drive it too far you partially block the oil drain-back hole. This causes oil to pool at the seal and causes a leak in short order. It is also a large diameter seal - if it is not carefully driven to an even depth all the way around the seal runs on an oval-shaped shaft (cross-section of round shaft taken from a non-perpendicular angle) - this causes uneven lip pressure and damages them pretty quickly. Correct sized driver is a 3" ABS pipe coupler. I use a "drain clean out" and install a threaded cap in the end. GD

The EA81 radiators are brass tank units - a good radiator shop can clean that unit up, repair any leaks etc, and have it good as new for about $50. Worth it IMO. Less than half the cost of a new one. GD

When was the last time the plugs were gapped or replaced? Cap and rotor? GD

No. The Brat would have to be rewired as that is an 80/81 cluster. GD

Hope you didn't put that flow restrictor on the front O2....... Yeah that's way overkill and too much work. Spacer on the rear O2 is all you need. I've done half a dozen of them.~$5. Research fail...... GD