GeneralDisorder

Try some of the other online US dealerships: www.1stsubaruparts.com www.subarupartsforyou.com www.subaruparts.com You could also have a member here buy one and ship it to you. GD

I'm not totally clear on what the technical differences are between the RX FT4WD D/R with diff lock and the EJ dual-range.... besides the obvious bell-housing difference. If someone could answer these questions that would be great: 1. What is the low range ratio? 2. Are they FT4WD with diff-lock or are they AWD? (with diff-lock?). 3. What is the final drive ratio? IIRC, most of the Aus/NZ 4WD stuff was 3.7.... Thanks and I'm sure other's would like this clarification. GD

Being you have a FWD 5 speed you can replace it with any comparable transmission from '81 through '89 as well as from the '90 to '94 Loyale's. They never changed the 2WD 5 speed in all those years. The gear is, unfortunately, not accesible without splitting the transmission open. If you don't have experience doing this then you are MUCH better off just finding a good used one (this is not a common failure if they are kept filled with fluid). Check in the wanted section of the board - someone will probably give you one for free. They are entirely undesireable because everyone want's the 4WD's. GD

LoL - ok. I guess they are cheap enough that it doesn't matter if you are doing them yourself. But still - you couldn't vist the Home-Cheapo and snatch a pipe nipple that would drive on the inner race? I'm pretty sure 1-1/4" would have worked although that's an armchair guess..... You must try harder next time or I will take away gold stars. GD

That's REALLY bad for the bearings. You are using the ball-bearings to transfer the force of the hammer blow from the outer race to the inner race and drive them over the shaft. Chances are that those bearings won't last more than 10 or 20 thousand. If you must do it that way, you have to find a peice of tubing or pipe that will slide over the axle shaft but still contact the inner bearing race. But even then it's also quite bad on the axle joints for the same reasons. If I were doing it that way I would also pull the outer boot down and put the axle in a vice resting on the OD of the outer CV joint. It probably wouldn't go in easily because the shaft had a few high spots. It's not at all uncommon to have to dress a shaft in preperation for an interferance fit like that. A thin coating of anti-seize thinned out with a few drops of oil helps immensely in lubricating the fit as well as locating any high spots. It's the small details that make the difference between axles/bearings lasting 100k and lasting 10k. I've owned dozens of EA vehicles and I've replaced a LOT of axles and bearings - but one thing I haven't had to do since I learned the right/wrong way to fit machined parts together is replace one more than once. When I do axles, they STAY done (except when I blow them apart off-road of course). GD

80w90 gear oil - fill it to till you hit the top of the full line on the dip-stick. Should be less than 4 quarts. GD

If it came from a '92 and is setup for a cable clutch (non turbo) then it's a 4.111 ratio tranny. Only the turbo's had 5MT's with 3.9 in those years and they were pretty obvious animals being setup with hydraulic clutch's. GD

You will have to pull the tranny and split it open. Probably not worth the time/effort. GD

Almost done fitting: GD

The CTS doesn't need to be cleaned except for the connections. It does not rely on it's ground connection with the threads for it's function unlike older sensors and the one for the gauge. It is a thermistor and rely's only on heat transfer (which is negligably affected by cooling system deposits). The 200 setting is too low for the sensor when it's cold. You need to click through the settings on the MM untill you get a reading. IIRC it's up around 2,000 Ohms (or maybe it's 20,000) when it's cold and it drops as it warms. You should never be putting the probe's on the threaded "bolt part" of the sensor - that has nothing to do with it's reading. You need to test through the electrical connections on the green plug. You should get a high reading cold, and a low reading warm and it's sounds like your MM is not auto-ranging so you WILL have to switch ranges on it to get a proper reading. I sugest back-probing the connector while it is installed and watch the reading as the engine warms. That will give you a proper idea of the range the CTS is reporting. You can't do more than a cursory inspection with a lighter as you cannot control the temp accurately enough to insure the resistance is low enough at 190 degrees. It may be that the sensor is "out of range" and isn't reporting a low enough resistance till it hits 250 degrees or higher - which is easily obtainable with a lighter but you have no way of knowing for sure. GD

Could it be that you just need a new key cut? That is often the solution with these.... As for a new ignition lock - the dealer is the only source for them and I'm sure it won't be cheap. As Mick says the better option is to remove the lock (not really that hard - pull the wheel and cover's, remove the bolts from the back using some needle nose vice-grips, and pull the whole thing off) and take it to a smith to have it rebuilt. GD

The STD came in both 4 speed FWD, and 4 speed, single range, 4WD. They were made from 80 to 89 along with the DL's and GL's. Early models differed in the front headlights/grill just as the GL's and DL's did in 80/81. After that they adopted the single sealed beam round headlights and the DL's had the single square's while the GL's sported the dual square's. GD

Yep - seen plenty of them over the years. I haven't owned one personally but I've known several people that have. I've seen two or three at the junk yards in the last several years. GD

I beleive that is the case. From my experience swapping SPFI over to the EA81 I know there are two 12v leads to the FP relay, one ECU controlled ground for the relay coil, and a 12v output to the pump. So on one side of the relay contacts you should be able to take a resistance reading through the pump to ground. The pump is grounded but I'm not sure if it's grounded near the pump or through the harness to one of the engine bay ground points. Probably the latter from what I know of Subaru harnesses in general. GD

How common are the EJ22's with carbs down there? (I thought the carb models were EJ15's or EJ16's?) I ask for all the folks that would like to have one of those distributors for their EJ22 here in the US. If you could aquire those distributors (even a few) or get a part number for them there in Latin America.... I'm sure folks here in the states would make it worth your time. If there are any junk yards down there - the manifold's (if they fit an EJ22) as well as the distributors would be useful up here. GD

If I were you, I would just buy a brand new set along with new rotors. Rockauto has loaded front calipers for $47.79 each (Beck/Arnley - which is often repackaged OEM). It's just not worth the trouble to buy used one's with these - the integrated parking brake makes them a pain to rebuild if you don't have the right tools and by the time you add the cost of the used one's plus the rebuild kits plus new pads plus your time..... I'm not thinking you would save more than $50 tops. Just not worth the frustration. GD

Does sound like a bad bearing - the shuddering could be an axle but it could also be torque bind - does the car have an automatic transmission? GD

Everything that needs asking has been asked, yes. And the rest is over on NASIOC because the reality is that the LC forum is mostly a bunch of guys with EJ22T's and that engine is just an early EJ turbo - very similar in most respects to the EJ20T's and the EJ25T's in the WRX and STi variants of the USDM Impreza. GD

The inner bearing seal is also different on the EA82's IIRC. But you could likely just use an EA81 inner seal and it would be fine. The ball joint's are different. The EA82 ball joint doesn't work in the EA81 control arm. There are ways around that but it does require a bit of fabrication to overcome. GD

The choke housings are riveted from the factory and aren't supposed to need adjustment. It could be that someone turned up the idle speed screw because the carb refuses to idle due to either a clogged idle circuit or a bad vacuum leak etc. If I had a penny for every time I've run across a carb set that way because the previous owner had no clue about carbs I would have...... like probably 15 or 20 cents GD

There is a fuel pump relay on the SPFI - the ECU controls the ground for the relay. Check for +12v to both the coil and the contacts on the relay with the ignition ON. Then check for ground - you should have ground at all times on the contact side of the relay, but only have ground when the ECU tells the fuel pump to run (for a second at key-on, while cranking, and cycling on/off with the green diag. plugs connected) on the coil side of the relay. The relay's pin-out is written on the side of the relay itself. GD

You might be able to lower the fuel pressure to compensate for the larger injectors if the difference is small as you surmise. Then bring the pressure back up when it's time for more air. At any rate don't even think about doing this without a wide-band (lean = BAD). GD

Just install a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. I wouldn't trust the "smash the regulator" technique farther than I could throw a blown EA82T. Stuff like that might be ok with Nissan engines that are more bullet-proof than the EA82T, but you are dealing with a very picky engine - you need to *know* what's going on - buy an adjustable regulator. GD

Ok - first - how is the battery and what works/doesn't work on the car right now. Does ANYTHING happen when you turn the key on? I'm assuming that since you were looking for spark that the crank circuit is ok but how are the rest of the accesory circuits? There is a main feed wire from the positive battery terminal to the fusible link box - it supplies one whole side of the box with 12v - so you should have 12v on one side of each of the fusible links. Sounds like the links are ok - 0 means there is no resistance (0 Ohms) and that's as it should be with them. First we have to determine if the ignition switch is good and if there is voltage to the switch..... One thing just occured to me - the folks that redid this engine as a carb (bless their wretched soul's) could have wired it in all kinds of funky ways. Perhaps a good picture of the coil area would help me to see what has been done and try to direct you further. We are working with a kludged together system and there won't be a wireing diagram in any book for it. So it's going to be a guess and check sort of deal and although you don't know much about the electrical side of things now..... you will before this is done I suspect. GD

Yeah - today is lazy for me. It's my birthday and I think the woman is dragging me out of the house.... I may be leaving shortly so I might not get another reply in. If not maybe someone else can help or I'll be back later. I'll try to check from my phone.... GD