GeneralDisorder

That's typical of loose timing belts. Sometimes the timing jumps around, and sometimes it doesn't. Just the nature of harmonics and rubber. That's exactly what the 87 coupe I have did - till I did a timing belt job. Tried everything - even suspected the automatic tranny. Had it flushed and I adjusted the bands etc. It was the valve timing all along. The skinny EA82 belts are stretchy enough as it is - throw in some slop (they don't have hydraulic tensioners, so as the belts age and stretch they just get loose) and you have seriously random timing. GD

Not a critical fastener requireing a torque value. Put them on with a 1/4" drive ratchet - tighten them in a star pattern. They are small, and you would need an inch-pounds torque wrench to even attempt to torque them. It's just not needed for that application. Tight enough not to leak, 1/4 turn before it breaks, etc. GD

They do appear to be gone. Try ordering some EMPI axles instead. They seem just as good and likely better than the GCK's. I put two on my hatch and at $58 each brand new they are cheaper than the GCK's as well. The quality appears to be excelent and EMPI has a good reputation in the VW aftermarket. GD

As mentioned, Brat's (all EA81's really) are 4WD. It should also be explained that there are THREE systems out there, not two. 1. 4WD. Just like a truck. 50/50 split power transfer. Do not use on hard surfaces as you will get torque bind. 2. Full-Time 4WD (FT4WD). Center mechanical differential. Some can be locked - when they are see #1. 3. All-Wheel-Drive (AWD). Uses a center viscous coupler. Thus *some* power transfers to all wheels (even when one is in the air), but the coupler allows a certain amount of slip. Automatic versions of AWD can be locked with modification. Your brother's 93 legacy is of the AWD variety - not the FT4WD variety. there is a difference. GD

1. The EA82's aren't powerful to begin with. 90 HP in throttle-body injection trim as your's is. 2. That said, they aren't particularly scary to drive - even at a mere 90 HP they generally go pretty well except on long steep grades. Shifting near or at redline is not generally a problem for them and can improve the feel of driving them a bit. 3. Strange things are afoot with your timing indeed. "24 degrees retarded" likely would not run at all, or very, very poorly if it did. Stock timing for the SPFI (throttle body injection) EA82 is 20 degrees BTDC. 24 degrees of additional retard would put it at 44 degrees BTDC - I highly doubt the thing would run at all although I've never tried. 4. The hesitation could be several things. But it you are not receiving any kind of malfunction codes from the computer, and with the timing anticts that seem to be occuring I would be highly suspect of the valve timing itself. It could be anything ranging from a loose belt to the crank belt sprockets being on in the wrong order or a combination of these or other ailments. I have personally experienced a highly annoying hesitation on an SPFI EA82 that didn't resolve itself till the belt actually snapped and I installed new one's - hesitation magically gone due to new, tight, properly installed belts. One of the drawbacks of buying old cars with unknown maintenance. So.... with all that layed out I would be very temped to remove the outer belt covers to inspect the timing and check the condition of the belts and their tension. It's a relatively simple procedure that shouldnt take more than about 30 minutes - maybe a bit more if you have never done it. GD

Depends entirely on how much you want to cut. People have run 27" swampers with no lift at all. 2" isn't worth the effort in my opinion. The differences between a 2" and a 4" are so minimal as to make the 2" of dubious value. The difference is the cost of the steel if you do it right, and that amounts to *maybe* $50 - probably more like $25 and that's a stretch. GD

Pull the caliper off and plug the line going to it - either using a valve so you can bleed it or just bleed it by cracking the plug. At any rate one front brake and two rear's will stop you just fine. Just don't do anything stupid and watch the brake steer. GD

If you removed the tie-rod end to do this, then you changed the alignment. You'll have to align it yourself or have a shop do it. GD

Probably not, but the way it's mounted looks cheesy. And even though it has to be welded, the EA82T rear sway is going to be cheaper. I'm sure either would work, but the way the EA82T bar functions makes more sense to me and it was designed for the same type of trailing arm setup. GD

That's the "pitching stopper". Get a die and run the threads down farther on the rod, then cut it in the middle and weld a section of a bolt into it to extend it. Or make a new one from some flat bar - I would turn the mounting hole 90 degrees and make a new "rod" from a couple lengths of flat bar in a T arrangement for strength. GD

EA81 and EA82 front wheel bearings are identical. They are both 6207 C3's, and either axle will fit either knuckle just like it's supposed to be there. The difference is mainly the length and the sizes of the joints. GD

EA82 turbo rear sway bars fit better but you have to weld the brackets to the control arms after you cut them off the turbo control arms. The fit is as close to stock as you can get though. GD

No - EA82 axles are too long. The transmission type has less to do with it than the track width of the body. EA81 axles are shorter. GD

85 through 87 4WD's were carbed. 2WD's, late 87's, and everything after 87 was SPFI, MPFI, or Turbo. I could weld an extension to one for you, sure.... but I did it to an EA82 (that I don't own anymore), so I would need accurate dimensions of what you need exactly. PM me and we can discuss it. GD

The EA82 version is virtually identical. It's a pretty simple thing - I even adapted the one on my '86 sedan to work with the Weber I had on it. I welded a bolt to the end of the "hook" and added some washers, etc to adjust it accurately to the Weber's linkage. GD

Nickle anti-seize is what you want to use on the nut and cone washer. Just a light coating. GD

No - it's a threaded, flared pipe fitting. There's nothing to bolt to. GD

Well there's a couple ways. The best involve your little welder . Easiest way: The pipe from the head spacer plate to the valve is steel. Cut it off - leaving about 2" at the ferule to the plate. Smash the cut end flat and run a bead across the seam. Instant cap. Harder but cleaner way: Remove the pipe and again cut near the ferule - but remove the ferule from the pipe and stick a washer or something else that just barely fits down inside the ferule. Weld it up solid. When you do it this way you need to leave the last 1/4" of the pipe inside the ferule - the flared part that actually seals into the plate or it will leak around the threads. This is the method I personally use. GD

Just follow the pipe that comes off the exhaust spacers under the heads. That goes to the reed valve (Air Suction Valve or ASV). From the valve you have a rubber peice that connects to a plastic canistor - those are just mufflers or "silencers" to dampen the noise of the open exhaust when the reeds suck air. From there you generally go to the air cleaner - or in your case you can use a couple of those little cone filters I mentioned. Some ASV's are vacuum operated via a thermo-vacuum valve or ecu controlled vacuum valve. If you have that type (they have a vacuum nipple on top and are bigger) then you should replace them with the non-vacuum (passive) style ASV's that came on non-feedback models. GD

They get dirty, and they get worn. The seats for the check valve get beat up in them, etc. It's stuff you have to measure to see - just looking at them you won't see anything wrong. They are highly precise little machines and it takes only a little bit of grit or a slightly large clearance to make them leak. GD

Nope - just use some of those mineature cone filters people stick on their V8 valve covers. They just need fresh filtered air to keep stuff out of the reed machanism. GD

That works on some of them probably.... some of the AC brackets are different than other's. Dealer vs. factory vs. year. I know that wouldn't have worked on my 84 wagon. The AC bracket was an unholy cast iron thing that weighed at least 10 pounds. Good riddance. GD

Technically, having a Weber (or not) has nothing to do with the ASV's. They operate from the exhaust pulse alone. The hoses to the valves only need fresh air from the filter or their own small filters (reccomended) for them to work. The valves often break though - especially at high mileage. So it's often best to either remove them or to disable them using a quarter between the pipe and the valve. This way they can't fail and you can leave them in place using the quarter trick in case you have to go through emissions with the car. Personally I like them gone, but they can work with the Weber. The catalyst is more effecient when it has fresh oxygen to work with. GD

Yes - you need the brackets from a non-AC EA81 - both the inner and outer brackets - don't forget the round spacer under the inner bracket. Then you have to change the pulley over and you will have to reposistion the output terminal and add some washers to the inner pivot area to make up for the difference in thickness on the XT6 alt. It's pretty easy stuff though. No doubt about it. There's nothing quite like knowing you did it yourself. GD