GeneralDisorder

Well - the short answer is no... at least not to any extent that would be worth the effort. The long answer is that the narrowband O2 sensors that almost all vehicles use were specifically designed to operate accurately only at 14.7:1 fuel/air ratio. Their accuracy is pretty good between 14.5 and 15.1 or so usually. They were designed this way because 14.7:1 is where the three major exhaust pollutants are at their combined lowest points. Thus they didn't care about any other ratio. The O2 is only important at idle and at cruise where it is used to acheive the lowest emissions scores. At WOT all you will see on a narrowband sensor is "rich". Now - for our friend tuning is Weber this his fine - he can play with it till it's in the 14.7 range and get decent mileage at cruise and idle. That's all he needs it for. It wouldn't work if he wanted to tune max power at WOT though. There are wideband sensors and monitors that can emulate a narrowband (for stock ECU input needs), and I think some of them can do scaleing and shifting of the curve - so you could probably do it that way. But you are looking at probably $500 or more for a sensor like that. There is mileage to be gained - you could lean it out at cruise to 15.5 or maybe even 16.0.... you will increase engine temps, but not drastically so. I couldn't tell you how much you'll gain, or even if it would be economically viable. There's too many variables. GD

The venturi's are not always the same size. There's about three sizes. The DFV's were used on many OEM vehicles and usually have a lot of extra stuff on them. GD

There's 3 lines from the tank - fuel supply, fuel return, and vent. None of them should be capped off. The vent and the return can be left open if you wish. GD

1. Line up flywheel at center line of the 3 valve timing marks. 2. Drivers side cam mark straight up. 3. Passenger side cam mark straight down. 4. Install both belts. 5. Line up flywheel at desired timing (8 degrees for carbs, 20 degrees for SPFI, etc). 6. Install distributor with rotor pointing at whichever plug tower you wish to be #1. 7. Install plug wires counter-clockwise starting at your selected #1 in the order 1,3,2,4. 8. Start engine and verify exact timing with a light. Done. Before you install the belts, verify that the inner-most crank sprocket is the one with the groove (chamfer) on the backside to clear the lip seal. GD

Yeah - drilling spring steel is pretty futile. At this point you probably have a real mess on your hands. You'll just have to knock it out - try to work it back and forth and get a proper pin punch - the pin is 6mm. 3/16" pin punches work ok, but a 5/32" is better and a proper 6mm is even better yet (hard to find). GD

If you are going to shoot for leaning it out for best mileage you will also probably want to monitor exhaust gas temps. They will increase as you lean it out - can burn valve seats and stuff if you go too far. GD

Any pressure gauge will work - most have 1/4" NPT fittings so you just need an adaptor from the metric pump side (you can make one from an old stock sender - cut off the threaded section and leave some of the hex nut portion then tap it out for NPT), some nylon tubing (get the quality stuff), and some compression fittings. I have one made up with a 48" section of 1/4" tubing that I can use to test oil pressure on vehicles that I don't have a reliable dash gauge installed on. 0 to 60 psi gauges are a good choice. I get thrown-away used one's from my work every so often. They come as part of some equipment annual service kits so they get pulled and replaced even if they are good. On my off-road setup I use a stainless braided flex line with a 90 off the pump. Run that to the fenderwall and mount my sender or tubing up there where it's protected. GD

I just mentioned that because it just so happens that they share the same thread size and pitch . I actually have used them to bock uneeded O2 bungs. Not pretty, but they certainly do the job and aren't dangerous or anything. They are designed to hold back cylinder head temps and pressures after all..... That depends on a lot of factors, but for reference my Brat routinely got 27 with a baseline jetted Weber DGV, as well as my '86 EA82 sedan. My 84 wagon, when it was 2WD, once got nearly 32 on a long freeway run of about 400 miles. All three were running Weber DGV's - one new one, and one I rebuilt myself. Same baseline jetting. However.... if you have a "lumber rack", you will severely cut into your mileage. I would expect to see around a 2 to 3 MPG loss just with a big ol' rack on top like that. Now - my 84 wagon, once converted to 4WD ('82 4 speed), lifted 5 inches, and sporting 28" mud tires (but no rack on top), took a huge hit in mileage. On long freeway trips I would average just over 20 MPG. I wouldn't think quite so much. The lumber rack will cut into the freeway mileage, but doesn't affect it much around town at slower speeds. I would guess 24 or 25 MPG should be seen with mostly in-town driving only. But probably not much more on the freeway when the rack comes into play. All-in-all, I think you aren't far off from figureing it out. If the engine efficiency is down a bit, a little rejetting and tuneing with some choke adjustments should get you back up to around 25 at least I would think. GD

Put a regular mechanical gauge on it. The oiling system is self-priming so there's no way to bleed it. If the pump is working then air will be forced out. Did you dissasemble and inspect the pump? There's specifications on the clearances inside them. I generally opt for a new oil pump every 100 to 150 thousand miles. They get really chewed up inside - especially if people let the oil filters go for too long and the oil starts to bypass it through the pressure relief inside the filter. GD

Why would you replace that if you have a Weber? Tire inflation? I would be checking the float level, and your air bleed's and idle jets as well as your mains. You very well may have to rejet - engine's aren't all the same and if the volumentric effeciency of your engine is lower than the carb is jetted for you will have to rejet and retune. GD

It is neccesary, for obvious reasons, to clean the insides of a diff being prepared for welding very well. I've welded three diffs, and each time I've cleaned the insides out with an evaporating degreaser and dried them very well so as not to start fires. I can tell you that for a stock height vehicle the R&P on the R160's is quite strong - so strong that I wouldn't worry about it unless it were making some serious noises. I can't see a short drive with seafoam hurting them much - especially since they almost never fail and most probably have 20 year old fluid in them. I recently changed the diff oil in my 83 hatch - it came out pretty dark so it was probably original. I just did it on general principle as it's likely been 25 years and 225k miles. I'll probably never change it again unless I weld it up - which I may do as I have an idea for a slightly different welding technique that I want to try. GD

If it's like mine was, you'll be left wondering what they were thinking (or not thinking) when they decided what goes into it. If it's old stock then you may run into it either being jetted wrong, or the float adjusted incorrectly. Weber has gone through some poor quality phases when their production went to Mexico a few years ago. They say it's all sorted out now, but I bought my kit in 2003 and I had to adjust the float myself. Besides that and the kit being a total rip-off the carb itself has been flawless - just put it on my 83 hatch a few days ago because I was sick of 23 MPG on the stock Hitachi. Please take a picture of the contents of your "kit" as I would be interested to see how it differs from mine. Litereally all mine had was the carb, the 3" filter, and the adaptor plate. And some pretty useless instructions. GD

Who did you get it through? Link? My experience has been with the official Redline kit. GD

Well - there's just no market for new SPFI TPS sensors. They almost never fail. No one makes them, no one stocks them, and frankly no one really ever sells them either. GD

You have a bad front main seal - the crank pulley is chucking it all over the engine bay. And the high oil pressure is either a bad sender or the gauge is mis-calibrated. Test it with a proper pressure guage (mechanical) and see what you really have. Might want to add a 3 gauge cluster of temp, oil pressure, and volts as the stock gauges aren't all that great 25 years later. GD

Junk yard. Lots of good one's to be had - they rarely fail. Although if it wasn't throwing a TPS code with numbers like that.... I'll lay odds it's either your testing method that's broken or your interpretation of the pins, etc. It likely wouldn't run at all with readings such as those and it would surely throw a code. GD

It's easy - you'll figure it out. Wait and ask questions when you start. In the meantime read some posts on installing. I don't like the kits - they don't include the linkage parts, and they come with the 3" filter - it is too large to fit under the hood of the EA81 without rubbing. You'll have to get a 1.5" filter element and the clips, and you'll have to make your own linkage bracket. I use the old linkage bracket but mount it to the carb stud on the passenger rear of the base - you have to bend it and tweak it but it works well. Thus the kits really aren't useful for the price. Although $350 isn't too bad. GD

It's a T-handle deal that obviously can't put a lot of torque down - no provision for a socket wrench either. If you have any resistance to turning them it will be from age and grime, not because they are tight per-se. SOA original part number 399780111... looks to be discontinued. It looks like this, but I don't know if the 4EAT version (499787000) would fit. You could call kent-moore and find out. They sell the the general public so if there is still a tool made you can get it through them. http://subaru.spx.com/detail.asp?partid=499787000 GD

Why? Get a DFV - the Holly/Weber 5200 was used on many, many Fords and can be had for peanuts on ebay - brand new/rebuilt. It's a licensed copy of the Weber 32/36 DFV. You just have to tune the jetting and buy an adaptor plate. GD

I gave it a thought a while back - unfortunately my time isn't terribly cheap and there's a good 4 hours in a harness strip. I'm afraid the cost would make it unattractive to those who are likely to be interested in the SPFI swap. GD

'85 - it would be carbed. It may be a feedback carb with sensors, but it would have to be a California model if that's the case. Looks like you are close to me. Perhaps you can bring it by this weekend. PM me if you are interested. I'm in West Linn. GD

The problem with following that procedure is that it's intended for a bench assembly and you are supposed to be looking at the actual R&P gear teeth and using a special grease to see the gear teeth pattern. Also there is no way to check that the backlash is within spec with it fully assembled an in the car. So you can't actually verify that the procedure worked. Counting turns and marking both a start and end location with a punch is much better. Just put it back where you found it - that's all you can do. GD

Yeah - wireing is the biggest hurdle for most folk. People start doing the potty dance when I start talking wireing I need to rewrite and add to the wireing section - more pictures of the process of stripping a donor harness. People freak when they see 20 feet of wireing harness with 100 connectors come out of a Loyale. GD