GeneralDisorder

MAF's are interchangable, that's not your problem. I have used many MAF's and many ECU's in my swaps and all work together. Make sure hot-wire bypass is clear of oil and dirt, and check operation of the TPS idle switch. Most likely it was just the wireing (as I said it would be) with the distributor. Either ECU should have run fine. GD

Econemy: About 28 MPG average. Pretty simple install. Intermediate mechanical skills required, and sometimes a little mild fabrication for throttle cable linkages, and AC idle-up solenoids if you choose to keep such accesories. There's DGV, and DFV series. The "A" and the "E" mean virtually nothing in real life. All DGV series are stamped DGAV but it means nothing. The A is commonly refered to as an "Aqua" (water) choke, and the E as Electric, but in practice since all carbs are stamped DGAV, there's no correlation between the casting stamp and what is actually found on the carb. You just have to look at it. Many will be electric from the factory, and some will have been coverted to manual. Older versions tend to be water choke. All the choke types are compatible with a Subaru if you hook them up right, but all Subaru's are electric choke equipped from the factory, so that is the option that makes the most sense, and is the easiest to install. The DFV series suffers from the same nomenclature issue, but is a mirror image carb of the DGV. Everything is reversed - linkage, float chamber, etc, etc. It was also licensed by Holley for use in the early Fords - It's the "Holley/Weber 5200". Used on Pinto's, Capri's, Cortina's, and some 4 cylinder mustangs and others. SPFI is the better option all around, but if the carb install could be called an "intermediate" home mechanic job, then the SPFI is definately an "advanced" or "expert" install. It runs the gamut - mechanical mods, high pressure fuel system mods, and lots of electrical work. I wrote the article linked above and I love the SPFI. I won't go back to the Weber - the SPFI is also generally less expensive because the parts are so easily availible at junk yards. GD

Usual information will be required first - carb, SPFI, MPFI, or turbo? I'm going to guess carb - rip it off and throw it in a dumpster. Get a Weber or SPFI. GD

EGR, besides it's smog benefits, prevents the exhaust valves and seats from being pitted and burned due to excessive exhaust temps. This happens over 10's or 100's of thousands of miles so no immediate effect will be noticed by disabling it. There is, however, no reason at all to disable it's function - it helps keep the air we breathe cleaner, and has positive effects on the life of your engine - it does all that without robbing any power at all, and is both extremely easy to maintain and simple in design. You should do a little research before messing around with your engine bay. If you want to simplify it's vacuum routing supply it with ported vacuum and be done with it. It's also important to note that blocking it off with a plate serves no purpose as the valve is closed without vacuum pressure to open it. Thus simply removing the line to the vacuum actuator would have been sufficient to disable it. Plating over the port is just extra uneccesary work - but you would have known that had you done your research GD

EA81 and EA82 axles do not interchange - the EA82 unibody is wider and neccesitated a longer axle. While the spline count is the same between EA81's and non-turbo EA82's, the axle's will still not interchange - besides the length difference, the inner grease seal diameter of the knuckle is also different resulting in a different outer race as well. GD

Injectors don't run at 12v - that's why you have to use a noid light to test injector fireing on TBI and MPFI. I'm not sure what 12v would do to the injector - quite possibly damage them, but I AM sure you are making this much more difficult than it needs to be. Do the ECU power and ground checks in the 89 partial FSM pdf. You have wireing issues. The injectors do not fail and neither do the ECU's. In over 4 years on this board I've never heard of such a thing - the chances of you coincidentally running across such an extremely rare type of failure after butchering the harness is nill. Your problem likely stems from your complete reworking of the wireing - you should have done that *after* you got it started. GD

The fuel pump only cycles every 5 seconds if the green test connectors are connected, and the CEL should illuminate when the ignition is in run without the engine running - that's just the bulb check though. It could be that you don't have all the proper 12v supplies to the ECU. There's several switched supplies, and a constant supply. There's also several grounds for it - go through the ground and 12v supply troubleshootings in the FSM fragment. GD

Fuel pump and CEL signal are both ground signal's - for the relay in the case of the pump, and for the dash bulb in the case of the CEL. It's covered in my write up.... http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

Check out my write up and make sure your wireing is setup properly: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html There's also a link to the 89 FSM with all the troubleshooting in it. GD

You only think that because you haven't experienced a welded diff. GD

Remeber - you are in WI - we are not. BIG difference. GD

Better get a 60's or older vehicle then. Your Brat still has several even when carbed. There's no reason to fear them. I've never even heard of an SPFI computer failing. It's so rare as to be unheard of around here. Much more reliable, more effecient, more powerful, and nicer operating than any of the carb options. GD

That's insane. Unless it's something special, no EA82 with over 300k is worth more than $500 tops. I bought my 86 sedan with 208k for $100. Keep looking. So in the other thread you were talking about your justy..... is it a 5 speed 4WD? I've always wanted one..... maybe we could work out a partial trade or something. GD

Too bad they suck off-road worse than a normal LSD (which also suck). Good for rally and street perhaps. GD

They are brat specific, and 50% of the time they break off when removing them. GD

Hhhmmm - sounds like a vacuum leak perhaps. I would spray around with carb cleaner or brake cleaner and see if the idle changes. GD

Dealer GD

The Weber 32/36 DGV series is not DOT approved so you won't find it on anything recent enough to actualy see in the junk yard. The most similar would be the Holly/Weber 5200 series which is a licensed copy of the 32/36 DFV (mirror image of the DGV). Those are found on early Ford's - Pinto's, Capri's, Cortina's, etc. You can occasionally find them as aftermarket additions, but it's not terribly common. Get a used DGV off ebay and rebuild it. Or better yet - do the SPFI swap - read my write up here: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

No problem - glad it worked out for you. GD

Best way to do it is to pull all the plugs (and the fuel pump fuse if it's FI) and crank it till the guage registers pressure. Plugs out will make it spin faster and prime the oil system eaiser - plus it will not put any strain on the potentially dry bearings (no compression). GD

No - it's the diameter of the shaft and joints. 4WD joints and shafts are much stronger. Spline counts are the same and the axles are interchangable - thus the confusion as most parts stores only show one part number and you literally get whatever they happened to rebuild last. MWE, GCK, and of course the dealer are the only known sources that can get you true 4WD spec axles. The GCK's are my choice as they are actually redesigned from the ground up and are superior to the originals. MWE will get you whatever you need as he does custom work - but they are more expensive than GCK. GD

Read my write up: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

Early Mazarati Biturbo's were carbed (big 2 barrel Weber), twin-turbo. If you ask around a Maz yard they might give you 1 or a dozen. They are ugly, and unwanted. Mazarati buffs refuse to aknowledge their existance. GD

Cut the fuel pump ground circuit with a switch either under the car or under your seat. They will never figure it out. Car will start, and then promptly die so it will be very confusing for a theif. GD

You can't really. I've even torn them apart and it's still hard to tell. But many have experieced "bad" axles right out of the box. The only sure way to get good ones is to either get them from the dealer, from a quality Subaru axle rebuilder (MWE, etc) or the new ones from GCK. No other options have tested reliable for the members here - it's a crapshoot every time both with quality, and with correct axle model (4WD vs. 2WD). GD