GeneralDisorder

Suzuki Samuri frame might be a better option than a jeep. At least it won't be a Chrysler product. GD

That's not the issue. The issue is that IF and WHEN they do break - due to foreign object, age, or mileage - some of us prefer to have a spare set on hand plus a 12mm socket ($18 for both) and be able to replace them in 15 minutes - rather than spend several hours screwing with the covers, crank pulley removal, and probably towing the vehicle from wherever it broke down. Screw the covers. GD

The rear springs aren't under enough force to hurt anything. As I, and Tom have said they are easy to do without tools. I've done it many times - using modified EA82 rear coil-overs is a common way to lift EA81's so I do know something of what I speak. The front springs are a different matter entirely - for those a spring compressor is required. GD

Simple - use zip ties instead of the bolts. GD

On the front, yes. But the rears are easily compressable by hand. I've done it many times. GD

Flip the rocker switch on top of the column - it controls that. You probably accidentally hit it. GD

Fuel pump control unit, the clock, power window controller if you have them.....etc, etc. GD

There's a nylon ring that snaps onto the bottom of the shifter and slides into the "divot" in the tranny. Sounds like that's what you need. They are cheap and generally still stocked by the dealer. GD

That's how all Subaru flat 4's are made. It's not that hard to pull the plug, and it definately is not part of the water jacket. It is under the water pump, but you will find once you break it loose that there isn't really any rust on the plug - just a tiny bit around the edges of it before the threads. Coolant has additives to prevent rust if it's properly maintained. The tool to remove the pins is a hooked metal rod that has a "slide-hammer" action to it. Alternatively it's possible to make a split-arbor tool that can grab them from the inside and allow them to be pulled out - but that requires a lathe, and the member that made them no longer frequents this board. There was a site about rebuilding the EJ25 for use in an experimetal aircraft that had detailed pictures of the principle of the split-arbor tool but I have lost the link - you might search google though. Anyway I've rebuild plenty of engines and they all have quirks - I'll gladly trade the split block design for it's higher dependability. To each his own though - it's nice to be able to rebuild a bottom end or pull a piston out the top with the engine in place on inline 4's too - I just don't like transverse mounted engines where you have to pull them or halfway remove them to replace a timing belt. Overall, the things that matter most are easy to access on a Subaru, and the stuff that isn't (engine internals) lasts so long that it's not really an issue in practice if it's given proper maintenance. GD

It would have to be the 85/86 RX sedan tranny - "real" RX tranny's are FT4WD so do not have a FWD selection. As for towing? Hell no - car is too light to tow anything beyond a very small utility trailer, motorcycle, or *maybe* a small fishing boat or canoe trailer or something. GD

The GF's landlord doesn't do dogs or I suspect I would have a dachshund ... or were it my choice possibly a basset hound. But the rats are definately the most superior in the pocket-pet world. Amazingly intelligent for their size - they can learn virtually anything a dog can - even running obstacle courses and acknowleding their own name. Few people realize that because of their small size, extreemely prolific breeding habits, and docile nature they have been domesticated by the labaoratory and science community so as to be "easy" to work with. When you can breed a new generation every 2 months it's easy to use them for medical research. The only drawback as pets is they have a short life-span of around 2 years - but at least replacements are cheap GD

1/4" is plenty small, and definately chew-proof. They can chew a lot, but not steel. And they won't try anyway unless they have some reason to get inside. Rats are smart - on par with dogs - but unless they have a reason to go through a barrier (or burrow under it) they won't. A junior sized rat would fit through a quarter sized hole, but not a full grown one. Females are around 300 grams, and males can be upwards of 600 to 700 grams. 1/4" is plenty small to preclude entrance to any rat or mouse old enough to be exploring outdoors. She aint gettin through a quarter sized hole : GD

You may have a problem with the switch that tells the ECU to increase the idle speed with the AC on. There's a pin on the ECU that should be grounded by the AC system. Your issue with the fan is probably related as the system is designed to run the AC intemittantly with the controls in the defrost and possibly other positions as well - such that it's hard for the uninitiated to know exactly when the fan is on by itself vs. the fan AND the AC being on. Voltmeter dropping is simply a function of the idle being too low. The rectifier/regulator cannot maintain 12v if the alt isn't spinning at least 700 RPM or better (which translates to about 500 RPM at the crank pulley because of the pulley reduction). The clicking and not starting issue is common - it's the actual ignition switch itself. You can install a relay run by the ignition switch to transfer full battery power to the starter solenoid. That will solve the starting problem and is the prefered method as it allows the ignition switch to be operated normally. You may also want to clean all the wireing harness ground connections. GD

Actually, to do it right you would have to use like window screening (anything much larger and mice could climb through), and it would have to be the metal variety. I suppose the next best thing to a tupperware container for the car would be a wooden frame (cheap 1x2 pine probably, with a plywood bottom) covered with metal window screening (stapled), and then cover the whole thing with a cheap blue tarp from harbor freight, some dryer duct and battery operated 12v computer fans + car battery and soler charger..... Could probably pull it off for pretty cheap actually. I bet less than $100 - cheaper and definately more advanced than a flimsy cotton duck or plastic car cover. GD

You *have* checked that the bulb has a good low-beam element right? Does it work on high's? GD

old-timey metal widow screen would work - easy to work with and cheap. GD

Some you can, and some aren't drilled for it. If there's a brass bolt blocking off the other side then you can swap the inlet and the bolt. GD

The canistor can either be removed, or just fogotten about. Most people don't realize they are supposed to be replaced like every 50,000 miles or something and it probably isn't any good anymore anyway. It's a passive system so it won't cause any problems if just left disconnected. If you don't have an EGR port on the Weber then you just leave it disconnected. The EGR won't open without vacuum supply from the carb so it's effectively disabled if you just don't hook it up. GD

Just run a single vac line to the disty advance - leave the retard on the disty OPEN so it can breathe. You should also have a port on the front of the Weber for the EGR - it may be blocked off with a brass scew. If not then don't worry about it - some older Weber's don't have the port drilled. Plug everything else. The Weber has no facility for bowl vents or purge lines. That's why it's not DOT approved. Don't need any of that stuff anyhow. GD

I'm not so sure about that - remember the SPFI EA82 is 90 HP and the EA81T is still only 95. The EA82 is rated for higher RPM as well. The SPFI may have only a single injector, but it's BIG. It's hard to say without flowing them exactly what the params are - the EA82T injectors aren't large enough for many folks that want to use FPR's. GD

Either the problem with the Alt is intermittant or the Autozone tards can't use their machine. Only way the brake lamp comes on is from AC voltage. It's diodes. GD

Why? You would need a custom injection computer (Mega-Squirt, etc) as the EA81T's MPFI is niether set up to run without the turbo, or set to run with the high compression of the N/A block. The heads really don't flow all that much better - the exhaust port is still siamesed. Plus the EA81 MPFI uses the old flapper-door MAF.... which just plain sucks. Your mileage with the stock ECU will suck. SPFI is the way to go - it's the cheapest and quickest way to FI, and it's simple and rugged. With Mega-Squirt you could easily upgrade the TB if you so desired. GD

DON'T use poison! It doesn't work very fast so they will crawl into the car and then die inside the duct work. It's also extreemely inhumane - it's basically a really powerful anti-coagulant. Takes days before they even show signs of illness, and then they bleed to death internally. Really not appropriate for your situation anyway. They make all the commonly availible poisons this way intentionally in case a pet dog or cat should accidentally eat it - there is a common antidote to the stuff (vitamin K actually), and it gives them time to administer it. GD

More than anything you will have problems with the transmission tunnel. It's not big enough to accomidate the 4 spd - 5 spd is even worse. Lifting it or beating/cutting the tunnel will be required. You will have to change the complete exhaust system, front sway bar, and fuel tank.... as well as the rear end. Front strut's are different too. It's a lot of work, and I probably won't even do another one. Waste of time - the coupe has the same wheelbase as the wagon and virtually no storage space for off-road. GD

Well - it's more complex than that. The automatics didn't have T-tops after 84 even in GL trim. Also AC could be installed in DL's as it was a dealer option as well as a factory option. D/R of course was only on GL manual's not on GL automatics. But yes - ALL gen 2 (82+) GL Brats have intermittant wipers. All of the ones I've owned and driven had it. GD