GeneralDisorder

Verfiy the reading with a mechanical guage. The stock senders are known to read low or not at all. I find that oil pressure problems are almost always the sender, or the pump/pump seals. GD

After doing a lot of homework on the subject, and finding lots, and lots of reasons NOT to use additives, and relatively few substantiated claims by most of them, I tend to stick with plain old oil. And as someone else pointed out - PTFE is the spawn of satan - stay away from that stuff. It was actually Dupont (the manufacturers of PTFE) that sued Slick 50. The ruling was that Slick 50 had the right to do whatever they like with the stuff. Dupont sued them for using it as an engine additive, and has publicly stated it has no recognized benefits when used in an internal combustion engine. It does show some small benefits for power and torque when used in race engines for SHORT TERM use. But it clogs oil filters, and increases wear. It's VERY bad for anything but applications where the engine will be rebuilt after each race or season. While synthetic is clearly THE way to go for a newer, close tollerance engine, an older EA82 that burns a bit, leaks a bit, and is well broken in, it's really a waste of money. That's not to say that a good grade of oil shouldn't be used. After a thread on here a few years ago from a member that was in the oil industry, I've been using Chevron 10w40. It's both a very high quality oil, and inexpensive (I get it by the case at Costco). Chevron owns the patents on the processes and machinery used for almost all synthetic oil production, and much of the refinery equipment in the world. They know their stuff. I don't have any troubles with lifter ticking, and my 86 sedan has 230,000 on the original engine. They also don't sell any of this gimicky "high mileage" oil, or other strange creations. They sell oil - plain and simple. GD

Run a few hundred with ATF, then fill with Redline or your favorite sythetic. The synth gear oil helps a lot with cold temp shifting. ATF should clear up your "crunchies" pretty quick. I've had similar issues with tranny's that have sat for a while without fluid in them, or without being run through the gears in a while. As far as I know, Rislone is just a similar formula to ATF but with more cleanser additives. It works very similar to ATF in my experience. Go with the ATF flush, and if you feel you want rislone after you have filled it with synth, drain a quart and put it in. GD

Yeah - that's the FPCU. The flasher relay is further up undeneath. It's near the headlight relays IIRC, but don't take my word for it. Just look for something similar that will plug into your new one. GD

You have failed to insert the variable for the size of the belt ribbing. By doing that, you have assumed it is of size 0. In which case you would be looking at a smooth belt - like a serpentine, or a v-groove. As it is though, the belt ribbing is not of 0 size. Thus you cannot pick an arbitrary rotation of the sprockets. Each sprocket MUST turn about 5(?) degrees before it will again line up with the belt ribbing. The situation is that the distance between the cam's, and the drive sprockets is different - for the eqaution to be satisfied for both sides, a different number of belt ribs must be used. (NBR * BRS) = BL Where: NBR = Number of Belt Ribs BRS = Belt Rib size BL = Belt Length (between the sprockets) By assuming the rib size is 0 (smooth belt), you invalidate this equation. Furthermore, since the rib size, and the belt length are determined by the design of the belt, and the routing on the engine block respectively, those two variables ARE constant. This leaves only the number of ribs that can change for the two sides. And it does, and it is NOT a whole number. In the case of one side it's a whole number (purely by chance I'm sure), and on the other it's a whole number of ribs PLUS another half of one. That extra 1/2 rib requires that the two sprockets not be aligned with one another. Make sense now? Basically, BDG, and anyone else that thinks they *should* line up is not working with the correct mathematics. You cannot use whole number math for this. Fractional belt ribs ARE possible, and in the case of the EA82 they are being used. Thus the difference. It is possible to design it in a way that all the rib counts are whole numbers, but it would require a change to the tensioner location (mathematically, NBR and NBS held constant, and the BL changed to compensate). For whatever reason, they did not do that. Conversely - from an engineering standpoint - there is no reason to do it either. Except to help the grease monkeys not screw it up - but that's all-too-often not often a concern for the engineers. GD

Sounds like the mechanic failed to tighten the axle nut sufficiently, or installed the cone washer incorrectly resulting in a stripped hub. Axles rarely fail like that without giving SEVERE warning - which any mechanic with half a brain would have seen. If you can do brakes, you can verify that the hub is stripped - just take off your hub cap, and see if the axle nut spins when you try to take off in drive. I would call that mechanic you took it to and complain - try to get a refund or something. GD

Yeah - it's under the dash - attached to something up behind the fuse panel. Just scoot under there and you'll find it. Black square flasher module. GD

FSM indicates 43 to 51 Ft/lbs. 78 is definately way too high. GD

On the EA82, the read mem. connector is white. Both sets are in the engine bay wireing harness behind the drivers side strut tower. At the bottom of my SPFI write up, there's a link to the portion of the FSM that covers all the codes, and testing procedures: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

The Killers: Flapper MAF turbo with gen 1 heads No FT4WD 1.2:1 low range Sedan RX body, with a TON of miles on it. Sadly, not a very desireable EA82 in comparison to the *real* coupe RX's. People in the know want a coupe for the RX line, and people just looking for an old soob are usually looking for a wagon for skiiing, etc. The body style is also getting very, very dated, and I don't think you are likely to have many interested parties in the community at large if you have the price at $1k. Put it out for $800 OBO, and let them haggle you down to $500. Frankly if you put some effort into it, you wouldn't be so hot on selling it. It's worthless as cars in general go, but if you get things straight it will be worth *more* to you because you know the car. GD

Looks pretty damn japanese to me. http://www.tanzawa.or.jp/~paraut/page01/page01.html Leave your feelings about how it "sounds" at home. This is a place for facts. Try google next time. A bit of searching shows that Atsugi/Unisia/Paraut were all the same company prior to 1987. If you have a look at any original subaru pump from the early 80's it says "Atsugi" right on it, and later castings say "Paraut". GD

YOU ARE NOT LISTENING. There's no difference. Both me, and Emily from CCR have told you this. Paraut is the OEM manufacturer of all EA series subaru oil and water pumps. PERIOD. Your original factory pump came from the same production, as did any parts from the dealership. You are spending more for NO REASON. I'm the last person you have to preach to about dealer parts. Beleive me. I'm getting close to 8,000 posts, and I've been here for long enough to know a thing or two. And see my link above - with my wholesale discount at Lithia, the dealer pump IS about $80, and it's NOT aftermarket. GD

The original IS a parut. They made both the original oil and water pumps FOR subaru. I've bought many parut pumps and they are 100% identical down to the Fuji emblem emobossed on the casting. And as far as I know there is NO aftermaket manufacturer of subaru oil pumps. GMB makes water pumps, but I've never seen a listing for an oil pump other than the OEM Parut pumps. Just go try to find a listing for one - they simply don't exist. The Parut's are still made - both for the EA81 and the EA82, and my local dealer can easily get them. Subaruparts.com (also a dealer) listing: http://www.subaruparts.com/cart/?pn=15010AA016 (notice how it's listed as IN STOCK?) You my friend, got ripped off, and lied to. GD

Looks like some sort of safari tour vehicle. Would be really cool for a parade.... I would sugest that anyone planning something like this consult the laws in their area regarding riding in cargo areas. I know here in OR it's legal so long as all the regular belted seats are full. But in some areas I heard of people being pulled over for using the stock Brat seats - although that's usually a case of the cop not knowing what's stock and what isn't. GD

Last geniune Parut one I bought was $65 from my local discount house. Anything over $100 is rediculous. Dealerships charge whatever they please. Find a friendly one like Lithia that will give you wholesale. I get wholesale on all my old gen parts. My parts guys are very good to me. GD

2 versions: 80/81: colored chrome door logo - called a "passing lamp" 82: Black, more hidden door - called a "center lamp" Standard equipment on GL 4WD's. Does not fit any other configurations without cutting of the grill, etc. Except 82 through 84 DL single headlight models - it would more or less bolt into those if you have the grill to go with it. GD

But it really doesn't matter - since the double input vacuum advance is used on the feedback Hitachi - regardless of 2WD or 4WD it's function remains the same. That's how the system is designed, and that's the question which was asked by Bob. GD

No no no. THIS is humor.... http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/concrete.jpg GD

Yep - and it usually takes SEVERAL severe overheats to blow them too. It's very often a cumulative thing. There's no question the turbo's are *less* reliable than a non-turbo. But that goes for virtually every gasoline turbo car built.... ever. There are a few exceptions (EJ22G for example), but for the most part they are problem children no matter what company built them. But there's also no reason to think that a properly rebuilt turbo can't be run for many, many years with the right owner standing behind (and often under the hood) of it. GD

Looks elsewhere - your Weber is brand new, so your mileage is probably related to something else - tire inflation, roof rack.... who knows, but the idle settings have basically nothing to do with mileage - once your are rolling, the idle circuit is complete inoperative. The mileage is about the jetting, and a factory new Weber will already be "set up" for optimal mileage and power. Make SURE your choke is openeing 100%, as even a small amount of lean to the plate will cause increased fuel consumption. Look for your mileage to be around 28 MPG give or take, and make SURE you know how to calculate it. Average your results over several tankfulls to eleminate differences in "top off" amounts at the station. Don't pay someone to mess with a brand new Weber - they will probably jack it up, and it's likely not your problem. GD

The fast idle cam keeps the throttle open a bit when the choke is closed.... pressing hard will "snap" it closed, but it's supposed to be open a little - have you checked to make sure the choke is openeing 100% before you adjust the cable slack? Idle mixture is something you play with - you play with the speed, then the mixture - back and forth till you get it where you want it. I like mine at about 800 to 900 idle speed personally. GD

Mileage and previous ownership have a lot to do with it. But not the second year for the ENGINE, so not really applicable Your loss. Mechanic in the army here. Tons of experience with GM garbage. I wouldn't own one - not a stock "consumer" one anyway. Try searching a GM forum. You'll find the same things, but the problems aren't "minor", and are generally fixed with a new engine or transmission, or the car is scrapped cause they are cheap to replace. So what's the point of this? Your grandma knows more about subaru's than you?? Well that should have been aparent by now to anyone reading this. By all means please try out some other brands. When you find one that has the ability to take the punishment of a subaru and last 20 years with extremely poor maintenance, and owners such as yourself - hit us up. You aren't going to get many "touchy feely" responses from pissing all over your subaru in a subaru forum.... sorry GD

And the pump is still the same trochoid (SP??) pump design used on the EA81, and from my experience the EA81 pumps want replacing every 100k for best oil pressure. That doesn't always seem to be the case with the EA82's - but it comes down to maintenace too - the same wear factors are present, so it may be time for a new pump. GD

Hello? 20 year old car here.....DUH! 35K doesn't mean squat. If anything that *can* mean worse problems because some damn fool had his sticky fingers all over it and BLEW UP the first engine. Rebuilt you say? What was replaced and what wasn't? Were quality parts used? We established that your intake gaskets weren't proper OEM.....Etc, etc. You have no room to judge the EA82T line based on your limited experience with an EARLY model that's had who-knows how many devieant hands all over it before you got it. The EA82's have certain problems - fact. But if you know what they are, each and every one can be overcome and the car can live a long, reliable life. Judging an entire model line that ran for 6 years based on a single 20 year old car from the 2nd year production (and a performance [such as it was] model of the T to boot) is silly. Besides that - virtually all the problems you have listed resulted directly from your lack of skill, or from 20 year old rubber - which isn't going to change no matter what car we talk about. Having said all that - I wouldn't own one . Fact is, my Weber'd sedan is plenty fast for everyday driving. Ask anyone that's rode in it GD

For hot climate, run 30/70 coolant mixture, or even 20/80 for tropical environments. In places like Hawaii they sell it pre-mixed that way. Nissan Maxima alt will fit - same casing, but it's 90 amp instead of 55. GD