GeneralDisorder

Just use a punch. Don't bother looking around for a rental - no one will have it. GD

#1. Never (NEVER) use RTV on the oiling system. Bits can break off, lodge in a small passage in the block, and then you are calling around for a replacement engine. Oil only. #2. Lifter ticking is often a result of one or a combination of these items: Bad oil pump seals Bad cam case o-rings Worn out oil pump Dirty lifters Worn lifters #3. The longer the lifters have been ticking, the more likely they are worn (the ticking causes accelerated wear) and no amount of oil pressure will keep them inflated properly. Only remedy is new or rebuilt lifters. There's a link to a place floating around the board that does them for a few bucks each. GD

As to the between-valve cracks - that's not just a turbo thing. Every single EA82 I've pulled apart (SPFI, Carb, Turbo) has those cracks to one degree or another. Some I've had people insist on repairing, and others I've done nothing. Didn't make a bit of difference either way. My sedan has them - still gets 28 - 30 Mpg, and runs like a champ with the Weber. Too much heat *could* expand those cracks, but usually the HG's go first. Also - you are aware there are 3 different generations of turbo heads right? Gen 1's and 2's are more likely to crack. Gen 3's were only availible as service parts, never installed from the factory.... from the few reports I've heard on here they are pretty much impossible to crack, but you still have the same head gasket problems. O-ring the block, replace the bolts with studs, use quality head gaskets, and it should hold at least 15 psi with proper management - probably more with some forged pistons from RAM. NOT stock electronics and injectors - would be far to lean and you'll destroy the pistons. Thing is - all that work is a huge waste of money when there's EJ22T's out there to be found that don't need any of the special work to be good to 300+ HP - something you will NEVER make reliably with an EA82T. 200 HP is possible, but 175 is more likely the highest you really want to go for reliability. The race spec EA82T's were 170. GD

Basically the same engine, yeah. Think of it as a "longer" EA82. But the front is different - the timing belt system differs, and the the oil/water pumps are different part numbers, but largely the same in design. They still have the cam tower o-rings, and if those weren't replaced with the reinfoced units..... Pretty much the same lifter design tho, so if it's ticking it's lifter oil pressure that's at fualt. There's the pump, and it's seals, and the cam tower seals, so between those two some air could have crept in. If the engine only has 20k, then I would suspect poor seals rather than lifters. One thing I have noticed is that engines that are left to tick a LOT end up with worn lifters to the point that they will not stop ticking even with correct oil pressure. So there is some arguement to support fixing the TOD promptly rather than ignoreing it. But rebuilt lifters aren't real expensive either so it's really not a gigantic deal. GD

Yeah - my EA82 feedback sedan got a Weber after 5,000 miles of dinking with the feedback. There's a boost sensor on the passenger strut tower that's pretty much always bad, and cost's about $300 for a replacement. Plus it has the same problems as the rest of the non-feedback Hitachi's. Too small, vacuum secondary, and choke spring failure. On the plus side, I've never touched the ECU - I just removed the bulb for the CEL, and the ECU keeps the fuel pump running for me - that's it's only job now. Weber power is soooo nice. Freeway merging with a Hitachi is scary. GD

And jeep tubs, etc. Fiberglass isn't about strength - although it will flex a little bit before it snaps. That hole is tiny, and besides needing a mount for the seat-belt, doesn't have any real structural members in it. I would use fiberglass unless you can get someone to weld or pick up a small unit. I would rip out the seat belts and put in a set or three point harnesses so I didn't have to worry about the mount. Heck - it's supposed to be a sports car anyway right? If you must have the mount, I would say welding is the only choice. I would do the sheet metal, and then put a peice of bar stock down to reinforce the mount section and then drill and bolt the belt to it. GD

Not as hard as you think actually - cut out the bottom of the stock airbox, a couple bits from a coffee can, and some JB weld and all sins are hidden again. Take it back off when you are done unless you like it. With the airbox in place, it's real hard to see much of anything under there, and as long as it passes the sniffer, they won't even care. Besides that, some places don't even do the underhood inspection. Out of the 10 or so odd times I've taken a subaru through here in oregon probably 2 of them they actually lifted the hood. And even then they didn't know what they were looking at - marked down NA next to the air injection system just cause they didn't see a smog pump GD

Weber performs a LOT better. And it should pass WA state emissions - other have done it. Sounds like your feedback system is pretty whacked out - three different engines..... too many cooks in the kitchen. I would write it off and do the Weber swap, or better yet the SPFI. Feedback EA82's need the ECU to power the fuel pump, so unless it's been wired around, you still have it under the dash. Here's my write up on the SPFI - it's geared to EA81's, but the only real difference is you wouldn't have to modify the distributor for your application. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html Generally the SPFI cheaper than a brand new Weber, and about the same price as a used Weber if you rebuild it yourself. The SPFI is good for about 2 MPG more than a properly tuned Weber, but doesn't require any tuneing, and generally has better driving charateristics, fewer problems, and just as much power. It's manifold flows better, and the SPFI engines were already rated at 6 HP more than the carbs, so it's quite a decent setup. You'll spend more time and likely more money trying to make the feedback Hitachi work than you will on a swap. And either way you go with the swap you will pass emissions, and be better off in the long run. The feedback Hitachi was one of the worst carbs the Subaru's ever came with - especially the EA82 version. Second only to the EA81 carter/weber single barrel feedback GD

It's part of the "tool kit". Comes in a vinyl bag with a screwdriver, pliers, two combination wrenches, and a plug socket. Goes in the back in one of the side compartments or in your glovebox. GD

Every single component of the SPFI system has the Hitachi logo. If they farm out stuff..... well who knows, but I would think they would just develop stuff like that in-house being they are big in electronics - or were at that time anyway. There's no way to tell without contacting subaru of Japan, or Hitachi directly... neither of which would be likely to give a crap about finding out anything for you, and likely would be fearful of NDA's so wouldn't say squat. And as far as ND stuff - that depends on the part. A lot of ND things (such as the ND EA81 distributor/coil setup) I actually prefer over the Hitachi units. The original Denso starters are pretty damn rugged too. GD

Time to yank that carb off and rebuild it. Probably a bad gasket between the top and bottom of the carb. But.... You changed which filter? There's two - one near the fuel pump under the car, and one in the engine bay. The one in the engine bay is usually pretty clean, and doesn't function only as a filter, but rather it's mostly there to trap vapor in the lines and route it to the carbon canistor. Hitachi's are a pain in the butt - but the power loss, and the hill thing - leads me to suspect the under car fuel filter in your case. GD

Pehaps it would be better to count the ribs between the cam and the pulley to determine which is which since there are inconsistencies with regard to dowel pins and markings? Would that result in a single method with which to *always* determine the correctitude of the installation? If it would, then MARK those suckers with a punch or a sharpie or something.... At the end of the day all we are looking for is a method to make sure they are in the right place - if counting the ribs proves to always work, then I would rather do that, and put out that information for future reference rather than muck with all 9 years of FSM's.... GD

Not sure on the ratio, but it's higher in the NW as we get old cars from CA. Cars tend to migrate - they move towards poorer communities as they age.... I would guess that probably 1 in 10 is a feedback maybe - around here at least. That's about the ratio I see in the yards. You can just yank all the feedback stuff off the EA81's and it won't really care. You can put a standard Hitachi setup on it, or a Weber with no modifications other than removing the ECU and duty solenoids. Once the ECU is removed, the dash ECS light loses it's ground circuit, so you will never know the difference. EA82's are the complicated ones as the ECU controls the fuel pump, but not on the EA81. GD

Since it's not a visible area or a load bearing, (if I didn't have a welder) I would just cut out as much rust as possible, POR-15 it, then fiberglass that whole section. At least with fiberglass you can knock it back out later if you want to replace it with some steel, and the stuff is relatively cheap, and will mold into that curved area. Give it a good undercoating and paint the interior side. Alternatively, a small (very small - that stuff is thin) MIG welder is pretty cheap - or you could borrow or rent one. They are easy to use - point and click really. Wouldn't take much to bend a little sheet mental with a ball peen hammer to the right shape, and weld it in place. If I was closer, I would do it for ya - maybe there's another board member around? GD

Dealer only - under the column, and under the heater core hoses. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html GD

ECS is "emissions control system", or "electronic control system " if you like. Either one will do. You have an EA81 feedback Hitachi. Pull your codes - it's likely to be a coolant temperature sensor, O2 sensor, or possibly something more sinister. But no telling till you pull the codes. Pain in the rear the feedback's are - I sugest you remove it in favor of a standard Hitachi, a Weber, or do the SPFI conversion. Here's the link to my write up on SPFI for the EA81: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

Easiest way is to look for the O2 sensor On the EA82 there is a "boost sensor" on the passenger strut tower. It's a black thing about 1.5"x3" that says boost sensor on it. You can also look for the duty solenoids on mounted to the manifold - but those are largely obscured by the filter housing. Also the vacuum routing diagram (if it's still there) will show the duty solenoids, etc. GD

Yeah - go ahead and hook up the PCV. I'm convinced, and besides it can't hurt anything anyway. GD

One wonders why subaru didn't just cast the suckers as one peice. Maybe has something to do with assembly line process or something. Certainly doesn't seem it would be a detriment for the mechanic. GD

Sure. Stick your head in the sand - that always works GD

That sounds WAY wrong. If it doesn't come in a nice pretty white box that says GCK all over it, run far, far away from it. There should be no core as GCK doesn't rebuild axles, and the price should be $100 even - at least it is here in OR, and it was that way for junkie down in CA a couple months ago.... Sounds like a bad counter-jockey. Brute force and ignorance. Put the top spring clip in first, and then pound on it with whatever is handy. Small children work well.... or toss the ufo POS off a bridge and find a proper wheel from an 82 Brat GD

More folks should point to the search - only a few of us do, and only when we think of it. But the answer is that all side-mount EA series starters are interchangable. Cleaning is a good idea - usually they just need the solenoid cleaned up and greased. GD

Couldn't tell you the CFM, but it's got a full shroud around it, and some pretty big blades. It's larger than 12" in diameter anyway. Just a sec - I'll get a photo for ya. Ok - can't get the photo right now. I'm using my Linux box, and it's a mess.... I was wrong - the EA81 fan is 1.75" thick at the brackets/motor houseing. But the blade area is about 1.25" thick. Still a lot thinner than anything you can buy - I've also looked for something as thin/thinner with no luck. It's about 14" in diameter, so that helps with the CFM I'm sure. GD

So try a search. I've answered this many, many times. I think as recently as last week. We get tired of answering stuff, so we point you at the search button cause maybe if you find what you need you'll go there first next time. *I really need to can that response and just copy/paste it whenever stuff like this comes up..... in fact I think I will * GD

Yes - but he's in CA, and we already established in another thread that his engine IS from a feedback CA model. Thus it's just like the one in MY driveway. Hope that clears things up for ya. Also, 4WD's were imported as "multi-purpose vehicles" or simply "MPV", which may be the same as what you called a "light duty truck", but a Loyale wagon don't look like no truck to me, and I have a feeling they are different designations. The exception is the Brat - in 86 and 87 years ONLY it was imported as a truck. Thus those years do not have the jump seats, and Subaru pulled it from the market because they didn't want to pay the ~30% import tarrif on it, and sales were not good enough. And Bob - you are correct. Inner port goes to the ported vacuum on the front of the Weber. The slightly lower of the two weber ports goes to the EGR - that one usually comes from Redline with a small brass bolt threaded into it as many applications do not have EGR. GD