GeneralDisorder

Most likely the plug in question was for something your car didn't come with. Most cars have lots of things like this - cars are generally equipped to *be* installed with things like AC, even if they don't come with it from the factory. So you will see lots of plugs that just go nowhere. Can you describe exactly what happened when it broke down, and what it does now when you try to start it? GD

If you press on the inner race with enough force to install the bearing, you will cause flat spots where the ball bearings press into the race. This will cause premature failure. The proper way to install them is by pressing on the outer race. And if it's a "trade secret" then keep it to your self. The forum is for helping people, not giving them hints that will lead them to breaking their new bearings :-\ GD

Check your tire pressure to start with. What carb are you running? What size tires are you running? For comparison, my Weber'ed Brat got 28, my Weber'ed wagon gets about 20 with 28" tires. GD

Your expereince does not apply - the EA81 is not the same. I've done EA82 windsheilds as well, and they are easy by comparison. GD

For most folks, I think you are right. The wiring for converting most vehicles to an EJ series is the stumbling block. Mechanical fitment is really pretty trivial, and the adaptor plates are getting reasonable - $100 each at the show this year. My poison is going to be MegaSquirt, and the beauty there is that I could drop any motor I want without any wireing at all. I see a lot of import places with blow-out prices on the 150 HP JDM EJ20 (DOHC). Going MS first allows you to split the wiring from the engine so that all you have to deal with is fitment and software tuning. GD

I've been learning a lot with this Megasquirt stuff. You have to basically reverse engineer your whole engine/fuel injection system in order to set it up right. Pretty interesting stuff, but more than most people want to get into I'm afraid. GD

It's that much harder to clean, to get replacement belts over the cam sprockets, and to replace cam seals if you need to. Plus it just looks stupid, and they serve no purpose without the fronts on there. Cumulative I probably have about 50,000 on cover-less belts on various engines. And there's others here with far more than that. Make sure your v-belts are in good shape - if an old one shreds it could get sucked into the timing belts. Personally, the benefit of being able to put on spare belts in the breakdown lane with only a 12mm deep socket far outweighs the minimal risks. The alternative is towing the vehicle and doing a 3 hour timing belt job. There's really no queston at all if you have ever had a t-belt break on the freeway . And if you haven't then you clearly are a noob in the EA82 world. GD

Rod knocks are faintly metalic, and will be almost totally quiet at idle in a flat four. They mostly show up under load - accelerating, etc. Then about 1 mile before it blows it will get REALLY, REALLY loud and then it's over. GD

Because the coolant runs TROUGH the manifold - so if you have bad manifold gaskets, they can drain into the plug areas, and down through the drain holes directly onto the exhaust. There's also a few throttle body coolant hoses in front of the manifold that could be leaking. They provide coolant to the throttle body to warm it. GD

Ticking won't hurt your mileage - but you should definately consider new oil pump seals. MAF = Mass Airflow Sensor. TPS = Throttle Position Sensor. TPS you just test and make sure it's working as it should. MAF can be cleaned with some brake cleaner. GD

Out here they aren't all that rare - I did a clutch on one not long ago for an old dude. But they were only made for 89 and 90, so comparitivly rare. I do see them often enough tho. You aren't far from me - if you need help with the swap..... I've done a couple SPFI swaps so I know my way around their harnesses pretty well. With that many cars/parts I bet we could both win on a swap/labor deal.... GD

No - there are holes cast right into the heads - right near each of the spark plugs to drain water away from the plugs. They go all the way through the head from top to bottom. GD

Jeff is thinking N/A EA82, and you have a Turbo where the pipe runs around the front of the oil pan. GD

There are holes in each head near the spark plug where water (or coolant) can drain away. These holes drain right near the exhaust.... GD

Have you checked other stuff? Heater core hoses, intake gaskets, etc? For the record I install all my water pumps with RTV only. I don't use a gasket because I almost always get used pumps due to the vast ocean of soobs I have to pull them from (I always seem to find the car that *just* had one replaced before it was wrecked). Thus I never have the gaskets handy. GD

No - that's the stuff you use for EA82 windsheilds - they are glued in with that black tar rope gook. The sealant for the EA81's is completely different stuff as the EA81 has a full gasket instead of that goop. GD

+1 to that sentiment. And for the reccord in case anyone in EA82 land is listening, they are completely different (and a lot easier! [in some ways ]). GD

Stay out of the turbo for one. When the system goes into boost, the AFR goes through the roof. Under boost it's common to tune at around 10.5:1 AFR. N/A engines can run upwards of 17:1 or higher at cruise, and even at peak HP an N/A will still be running around 12.5:1 Sadly on an auto, this means you need to drive *very carefully* at 55 MPH. Anything above that and you are in positive manifold pressure (boost) at all times. It's the gearing of the 3 speed automatic that's to blame for this. Realistically, 20 MPG would be decent with a turbo *and* an auto tranny. Change it for a 5 speed and you'll get an instant 5 MPG. Basically, the EA82T can get about 24 or 25 MPG if you really baby it (with a 5 speed). But if you drive like grandma in order to get 25, then you might as well not have the turbo at all, and just get the full 30 you would have without it. 02 can help - and clean the MAF. The MAF, TPS, and 02 are the biggest culprits of poor mileage. Also make sure the exhaust is TIGHT. Any leaks forward of the 02 will introduce fresh oxygen and send the ECU a lean signal which will dump MORE fuel in. Any car with an 02 should have a very tight exhaust for best mileage. GD

Yeah - a small hole solves that problem, and is a minor inconvience for someone looking for a special temp other than stock. Turns out that 54mm is almost exactly 2 1/8" (2.125"), which is the size of the GM stuff. GD

FSM calls for Starseal U-70..... your guess is as good as anyone's. Nope - find a good one, or buy a new one from the dealer. GD

The one and only wire to the AC compressor is the AC clutch control - I would use that. This has been discussed a lot lately - a search would be a good idea. GD

That's an excelent way to ruin the bearing race. GD

I blew a bone stock one. Blew BOTH HG's at once. The 4 foot gyser of water that you could shoot out of the radiator cap was neato tho GD

Just set the timing without the engine running. Set it to 10 degrees. After the DEQ test put it back to 20. When you start it at 10 degrees, increase the idle speed to about 1000 RPM using the IAC adjuster - DO NOT touch the stop screw for the throttle plate. You must idle below I think 1200 for the test - the closer to 1200 you can get it the better, but the stock tach isn't very relaible, so shoot for 1000. Fill the tank up to 1/2 and add two bottles of acohol to the fuel (generally sold as fuel dryer, or gas anti-freeze). Whatever it says on the bottles ignore it - just use about 2 quarts. You want the alcohol as it burns hotter and cleaner. Disable your radiator fan if you can, and wait around before you go in for the test or hopefully there is a line there. You want to get the engine a little hotter than it normally runs - 200 - 210 degrees will help. Your biggest gains will be the retarded timing, and the alcohol. Oh - and if you have a fancy oil-element air cleaner (K&N etc) remove it and install a clean paper filter. The oil in them can increase your emissions. Changing your oil can help too - less disolved fuel vapor in the crank-case. GD

Could be - pull off the valve covers and check. You shouldn't feel any real play in the push-rods, and it's fairly obvious when they pop into the lifter.... but you'll have to judge that. GD