GeneralDisorder

Yeah - probably just dirty jets then. Very common on old Hitachi's. Not sure how that crap gets in there, but it sure is annoying. GD

Naru - I agree with what you are saying completely, however. EA81 and EA82 carbed engines have no computer control at all. You are right that the EGR if properly and accurately controlled, can yeild improvements in both performance and econemy. The hard truth however for these engines is that no EGR control is performed at all. They receive ported vacuum from the carb routed first through a therm vacuum valve to keep it from being used while the engine is still cold. Basically what I'm saying is that your are correct, but that it simply does not apply to many early subaru's due to their lack of software control over the system in question. The early SPFI systems didn't do anything with it either. Their sensors do not include anything to sense or control the EGR valve - only an EGR solenoid to once again turn it on once operating temp is reached. The whole ODBI, ODBII thing is just silly since none of this gen of Subaru's are complient. GD

And that's exactly WHY the DFV works better - the adaptor plate for the Weber to the EA82 manifold is opposite to the one for the EA81, so with a DGV on the EA82 the cable has to reach around to the other side of the carb DFV it does not. GD

Depends on which Weber you use tho - DFV or DGV series. Both are good, but the DFV series is an easier fit to the EA82 due in part to the throttle linkage, and the PS pump. Make no mistake tho - Either one can be fit with relative ease. GD

TROG is right - use the LOWEST grade of fuel you can without pre-ignition. Lower octane means more BTU's per gallon of fuel. If you can run the stock 8 degrees with 87 octane and no ping, then do it. Adding more octane needlessly will hurt your performance as the anti-knock qualities of the fuel also reduce the power they deliver. You could up the octane, but only do it if you intend to increase the timing beyond spec in order to gain that extra hot top end... note that this high timing level will only be acheived under hard acceleration when the vac advance is fully open. Under anything but full throttle, the timing is not advanced suffieciently to cause ping with any grade of fuel, so unless you are doing a lot of racing, your wallet will thank you for getting plain old regular. GD

One interesting thing of note here - any EA81 or EA82 starter will work (EJ too I think). Personally I go for the ones from automatics as they are gear reduction units, and spin quite a bit faster. I just like em better - easier to start with the faster crank speed. GD

Couple things you should always carry - a bit of plywood for a jacking platform, and some carpet. Using the stock scissor jack sucks, but it will get you high enough to put the carpet under the wheels. Usually works quite well unless you have dug deep enough to bottom out the body. The suction you get from having the floor pan in the goop is too much - have to start digging at that point. Sounds like you had a good time anyway tho. GD

A Junk Yard that keeps the keys? Surely you jest. HAHAHAHA. No such creature in these parts. GD

So they do have slots in those bolts? I know the EA81 ones are break-off's so they don't have a head at all. Real pita. I'll give it a go tho. He does have the keys (found them after the fact), so if I can salvage the lock a smith might be able to ressurect it with new guts. GD

You have a 2600 lb car with a 90 HP 1.8L.... with losses, I think 70 WHP would be amazing. At any rate, just don't try to pass anyone.... especially if it's an automatic. A Weber carb and better flowing muffler can help a bit - makes it feel faster from a dead stop anyway. Doesn't do much for top-end tho. GD

Well - since the dash lit up like that, I would say good chance your alternator has passed on. On the bright side it's a relatively easy fix, and not difficult to get to at all. Inspect the belt(s) for damage too. GD

Thanks Scott - I'll give it a go with the chisel then. GD

That really shouldn't matter - most of us run 87 daily and are just fine. It's all about setting your timing right. With shaved heads, I run at about 6.5 - 7 degrees instead of the stock 8. GD

You ever rebuilt one of these before? Just want to make sure you know what your are getting into..... As for the Brand.... Discount import is probably a good choice - they are usually cheaper then everyone else anyway, and as far as the kits go, they all seem equally crappy. (One reason I went to the Weber). If you really want to know the best - I say call CCR in colorado and ask them where to source the parts. GD

Buying an EA82 sedan from someone who broke a screwdriver off in the ignition trying to start it after losing his keys Driving it back to my place would be the obvious choice, but I've never had the column covers off an EA82, so not entirely sure what to expect. I do want whatever I damage to be semi-repairable, but I'm not above using a chisel and a hammer if need be. So what say ye? How shall I remove the ignition lock in a quick and dirty way? I'll pull the covers, and the steering wheel... what should I see in there and how do I bork it? I'm always posting on how to fix stuff.... isn't it ironic that I have a question about how to break stuff? GD

EA81's never tick.... none of mine have, and I've never heard anyone else report it either. That is characteristic of the EA82 overhead cam design, and usually a result of poor oil pressure to the lifters, and their distance from the oil pump. Bad cam tower o-rings are common, which add to the problem. Also, if it's the same as here, then an 84 with the 4 speed will have solid lifters, which require manual adjustment every 30k miles or so. Check the valve covers for a gold sticker that says "Do Not Adjust Valve Clearances" - that will indicate a hydro lifter engine. In the states, only 83/84 automatics had those, and in 85+ the Brat and Hatchback all had them. GD

The JDM dual carb EA81 was 108 HP. (should mention that it has a different compression ratio, heads, and y-pipe too). Stock EA81 single carb is 78 HP up to '82, and 83 HP for '83+. Difference is the larger intake valve, and cam profile. Stock EA82 single carb is 95 HP, Turbo is 110 or 115 depending on year. GD

4 speed only came with the EA81. All EA82's were 5 speed. GD

EGR also comes from the carb - higher up above the vacuum advance for the disty. Only receives vacuum after throttle is opened a bit father than for the disty. Someone above said don't touch it unless you know what it does - that's about the size of it. If you want to know what it does, post a picture and I or another board member will tell you. There are too many systems on there to list here.... and I'm tired of explaining this over and over. Do a search as this has been covered weekly for years. GD

I would say your problem is jet related - fluttering the pedal engages the accelerator pump repeatedly allowing you to rev the engine.... that alone points toward a fuel supply issue. The choke on the Hitachi keeps the idle higher before it pulls off, and the choke being parially closed helps add vacuum to the idle circuit. The thermo-vac valves.... there should be two or three on an 82... some may be electric rather than thermo - on a timer. Hard to say without looking. Largely they are there for evacuating the evap canistor once the engine reaches operating temp, and other emmisions related BS. Personally I just remove all that junk. Knowing what it does, and how it works is a requirement to being able to effectively remove those types of systems without causing problems in the process. GD

Just remove it - you may get slight, soft pops while coasting down steep hills. Doesn't bother me. On EA81's there was two types of EGR's - one with the big tube for the anti-backfire valve, and the earlier one that does not have it. I use the older style without the pipe... but you could just block off the EGR port with a steel plate. GD

Since it has to do with temp, your issue is partially choke related, or you have a vacuum leak that is opening with one of the thermo-vacuum valves.... but I would tend to suspect the choke. Rev the engine to 2500 or so, and cover the intake with a rag till it almost dies (or does). This will cause massive vacuum in the carb and suck out any gunk clogging the jets. Repeat it a couple times. GD

Yeah - probably a cir-clip floating around in your tranny.... perhaps replacing it with a spring style clip would work... might want to try and get the old cir-clip out with a magnet if you can find it I'm thinking you should go with the 5 speed. Less potential issues later. GD

Well - I think if you can't pound that puppy back in (some tranny's apparently you could slide-hammer those out, but others were bolted in from the inside?) then your are SOL. As good a time as any for a 5 speed swap it sounds like. Take a look at the stub that got "pulled" out and see if you can determine if it broke, or was just pulled free of the diff. GD

The point is that it can, and has been done. The twin carb setups are not actually all that rare, and even in NZ, I'm sure you have places that import used Japanese engines. That's where people in the US have found dual Hitachi setups. Frankly tho, if you have any fabbing skills, it's not all that hard to cut plates for the head intakes, and carb base, and braze or weld on some tubes in-between, and nipples for the coolant cross-over. Dual carb theory is the same as it is for any of the VW flat fours, so there's plenty of reading material at your local library. The problem is.... the head castings for the EA81/EA82 carb/spfi engine's don't flow well. This is fixed one of two ways - forced induction, or different/modified castings. If you can TIG alum. then you can do exactly what SUB4 does, and dual port the stock heads. Just bore into them, and weld in some tubes for intakes. I'll do it myself if I ever have the money for a decent TIG box. GD