GeneralDisorder

Actually, they are something like this: EA81: 1.46:1 (3.9 diff) EA82: 1.52:1 (3.9 diff) EA82T: 1.20:1 (3.7 diff)

Subaru says 1 quart every 3,000 miles is within specs. GD

Thing is - it's not the guage. Test the leads to it at the plugs on the back of the cluster before you replace it. GD

WOW! That's amazing. Kinda neat actually - I assume you have seen the 120 HP justy they took to bonneville right? GD

Then you have the EA82 overhead cam engine. 1.8L They make 95 HP stock. The Weber, and a decent muffler will net you another 5 or 10 perhaps. There is a turbo version of the same engine (different compression ratio, heads, fuel injection, tho, so it's not just a bolt on) that was around 115 stock. Subaru rally cars of the vintage were putting out about 175 or so on that engine. This is not a "performance" car - it was designed to get you there in safety (4WD), and econemy. GD

Front's have the parking brake, so must be turned in while pressing on the cylinder. Removing the bleeder screw helps sometimes I've noticed if they don't want to go in. GD

Different splines, so no. They are the same diameter tho, and that's what allows the 4 spd / 5 spd conversion to be possible. You just keep the right disk for the tranny, and use whichever clutch is appropriate for your application. GD

EA81 or EA82? Rear is the same for both - pull engine, and it's right behind the flywheel. Pretty easy. Front is literally a 15 minute job on the EA81 - just remove the crank pully bolt, slide the pully off, pull the old seal with a screwdriver, and push in the new one. Button it up, tighten the accesory belts - done. EA82 is more involved as you basically are forced to do a timing belt job to get to the front seal... might as well do the belts, tensioners, water pump, oil pump, cam seals, etc, etc when you do the seal. Hehe. GD

I know this is the reccomended procedure, but those of us that have done this a number of times just do it the easy way - drivers side cam mark UP, passenger side mark DOWN - install BOTH belts. Done. No need to be turning anything. Silly japanese repair manuals GD

You have a 1.8L engine.... either an EA81, or EA82 depending... is this a Hatchback (called a "Chaser" up there), or a wagon or what? Does it have a 4 speed or a 5 speed trans? Get a Weber DGV series carb, and put on a little better flowing muffler... short of getting into the engine internals, or swapping to a newer, bigger engine there's not a big list of mods for it really. You have the dual range tranny, so your gearing isn't really condusive to speed either. You could change out the tranny with a turbo 5 speed - they had a lower diff ratio, so a bit sportier. The better idea would be to lift it and find a fun mudhole.... GD

Rear of engine where? Top, bottom, left, right? How far rearward? What does the "valve" look like. A picture might help.... can you positively identify it as engine oil? Could it be transmission gear oil, or cv joint grease? AT fluid? Best guess from your description - possibly the PCV valve?? Rear main seal? Better question - what model/year of car you working on? GD

Redline. GD

Tom - we need to chat and figure this problem out. I'm not sure what the deal is, but I've had the same problem with my 85 Brat ever since I bought it. It's not the alt, and not the battery. Not the cables either. When I start it in the morning, it will hover right at 11 or 12. After driving a bit, it will come up to around 14 where it should be. I've spent cumulative probably 40 hours on this problem - I've fixed a number of things I thought it *might* be, but thus far to no avail. I suspect a ground wire somewhere under the dash. A little background, and what I've found so far: The alternator is a "remote sensing" internal regulated type (I'm using a GM, but it matters not, as the wiring is the same for the Hitachi). One wire from the two prong plug leads to directly to the "power distrubution point" - in our cars the fusible link box by the battery. The alternator will regulate voltage at that point, and NOT at the back of the alternator. Thus if something is drawing say 1.5 volts, the voltage at the links will remain at 14.5, and the voltage at the back of the alt will be higher to compensate. The tests I've performed show my voltage to be fine to the links - so the remote sensor and the alt are working as they should. To explain it another way, the voltage at the links is 14.5 even though the guage in the dash reads 11. This would seem to indicate a problem within the circuit that feeds the guage. The guage indicates "accesory" voltage, which means it's tied into the same circuit that feeds things like the headlights, blower motor, and wipers. Thus when you turn on some accesories, you can watch the guage indicate the change. The problem is when the engine is started in the morning, even with all accesories off, I read about 12 volts, maybe 12.5 at the guage, when I should see a full 14.5. Later after warm up, it will read correctly - perhaps 15 to 30 minutes later. The difficulty in finding the offending ground or circuit is that the wiring under the dash is difficult to navigate, and the diagrams in the FSM show you nothing as to grounding locations, etc. GD

Look for a rebuild kit for an 84 model.... you probably have two listed because you are looking for the 87 model year, when EA81's and EA82's were produced side-by-side. You have a DCP series carb, and the EA82's use a DCZ series. Any DCP series will take the same rebuild kit, so regardless of which one out of the 15 or so models you have, it will work the same. Be very careful rebuilding them - make sure you don't lose the accelerator pump check ball (small, and plastic), and make sure you replace the float seat and needle as a set. They tend to get sticky. As a general rule, these carbs are real bastards to work on - at least that's the reputation they have. It is deserved as they are complex for being "just a carb". Took me about 7 tries before I really got it down to where I can make one run decent. The choke system is just aweful tho, and they rarely work right. I'm not so sure they worked when they were new The issue is made worse because the rebuild kits for these are cheap junk (IMHO). I have yet to find one that I liked. The parts just scream "CHINA". That's one benefit of the Weber - at least you can get quality kits for them direct from Weber! GD

Sorry - guess i didn't really "answer" huh? I know what you are refering to - the woodgrain dash bits like the Gen 1's.... Sorry - but your choices of interrior color for Gen 2's would be: 80-81: Gray, Light Blue, Brown 82-84: Gray, Dark Blue, Tan None had woodgrain... some of the "bits" were oddly colored for some years tho. Found an 81 GLF coupe with a black dome light once. Gave it to McBrat. GD

Post a picture and we'll tell you. Short answer - if you have a Tachometer - you have a GL. Seriously tho - just drive and check the RPMS with it in 2WD, and 4WD (all the way up). You'll know in 5 seconds what you have. GD

Funny thing is it takes about 15 minutes to remove the cam covers (both)and the whole story is right there... $300 for this is scam. Diagnostic huh? That's just balony. Most likely a broken/stripped belt. You can leave the covers off when you do the belt (lots of folks do), and this will allow you to see and change them very easily in the future. It IS possible to break a cam - someone on here did it in fact. Pretty unlikely tho. Was probably a defect in the steel. GD

I'm afraid your's is already as "lumberjack" as it gets Nick - the 82 tan with those plaid seats..... wow. Hehe. GD

Knocking under accleration could be a rod - my wagon did the same for a couple thousand miles before it tossed the offending bit out the top of the block. With the engine off, rock the crank pulley back and forth a bit and see if you can feel the rod bearing "tapping" as you do it. If you feel nothing, your knock could be a main bearing. Incidentally I have a slight knock on my Brat (same engine as yours) that I am nearly certain is a main bearing. Been that way since I got it 40,000 miles ago. Main bearings - even sloppy ones - if properly lubricated (I changed the oil pump) can last quite some time. Mine however, does NOT knock under acceleration, only around idle, and then it's gone once your start to drive. You can definately feel the knock tho - both on the engine, and even in the shifter. GD

Might be kinda cool actually.... I bet some employee of the company that makes the kits owns a Brat, and couldn't stand the camaro size doors. They can be a pain for parking in tight areas. Definately getting a set of those when I win the lottery. Yes, definately. GD

Not sure who originated the idea of using quarters - I think Qman passed it to me. Great little trick to stop that backfireing on the cheap. I cut the ends off the ASV pipes, and then use a flat washer as filler and weld it into the pipe end. Thread that into the spacer with about 1/4" of the cut pipe inside the cap so it will seal and you'll never see that whole mess again. Two 12mm bolts on either head will remove the whole darn system. EA82's - the flange works the same - use a washer and fill it with a welder, then bolt it back in place. Instant block off plate, and near free if you can weld a little, and have an angle grinder. GD

Actually, Miles - DL's were single range in 84 (at least some were anyway). I owned one in fact - was a parts car but it was single range 4WD 4spd. The DL dash doesn't even have the "Lo" indicator light I don't think. They are physically similar outside, and hookup the same tho, so with a car this old you just have to test it to see. Could have been replaced with anything at this point - might be single, might be dual - depending on what it was pulled from if it's not original. GD

Yikes! My second try would be a sledgehammer and a vise. Actually a small tie-rod end puller from the free rental at Autozone works too - will push it out from the bottom. I've done them that way as well when I wanted to save them for re-use (junk yard). GD

Simple. Drive down the street in 2WD 1st gear, push in the clutch and pull up on the 4WD lever (As far as it will go). If when you release the clutch the RPMS are higher then they were before, you are now in 4WD Lo. As for markings - if it's an 84 "GL" wagon then it should be dual range, if it's a "DL" then it's single range. But the tranny's are EXACTLY the same (hookup, and appearance wise), so it could have been swapped at some point as 3rd gear has a tendancy to blow it's syncro on the 4 speed. GD