GeneralDisorder

If fuel trim decreases (from high positive trim) with RPM, it's a vacuum leak. If it increases it's a fuel delivery problem. Those are the rules for MAF cars. They only apply loosely to SD cars like your Forester. It could have a massive below-throttle vacuum leak I suppose but it would be obvious. More likely the MAP sensor has failed. GD

My thoughts are - what's the live data say? Without being able to see the sensor inputs to the ECU, we really can't help you. GD

MAP sensor readings are whacked. Being the MAP is an absolute pressure sensor, it should read 29.92 in/hg with the engine off. Subtract the usual idle vacuum of a healthy engine (18 to 22 in/hg) and the sensor should read ~10 in/hg at closed throttle idle. IAT is pretty far off but if it was idling for a long time the under hood temps might have got it there. Still - with an 86 degree delta over ambient I would question it. Checking it in free air would be wise. Check the MAP sensor with the engine off against local barometric pressure. And then with a shop vacuum gauge. Dealers and even most shops are unable to handle this level of troubleshooting for the most part. You may need to ask around at who can actually do real diagnostics and understands EFI live data. Usually best to find someone that is well versed in performance tuning. And yes this will cost - their time is valuable.

150k...... ish. GD

Yeah it's a forum rule - if you post it in the "For Sale" forum. This isn't that. Honestly I don't look there but someone else would have LOL'd at it I'm sure. That's ridiculous.

No one makes any bolt on exhaust for that model. You will have to have it custom made. The UEL headers for the dual-port EJ22's should fit and could be used as a starting point.

Your experience with hovercrafts is irrelevant. I see plenty of SVX's for sale here in OR. There was one not 20 minutes from me for $1500 on craigslist last week. You can sell it as dirty aluminum. You get more than steel, but less than clean aluminum. It's a thing - here anyway. Yeah I'm a fake. Totally. Check my post count. GD

I see them frequently. Regardless an EG33 with a blown head gasket, unknown history, that's been sitting for years and we can't see it run.... yeah weigh it and whatever that times mixed aluminum scrap price = value.

LoL. You can buy whole SVX's for less than that. And with a blown HG no less? Bonus points that count toward sitting at the cool kids table no doubt. LOL. JDM import EZ30's with a warranty cost about that much. What exactly do you think you have there? Looks like a big question mark looking for an anchor chain to me. Scrap it.

If the extra 2.5 gallons of coolant isn't in the oil or on the ground it's gone out the tail pipe. These don't have hydraulic lifters so valve lash is suspect. Oil pans are glued on and usually don't leak. Check the separator plate, rear main seal, and the dipstick tube. GD

Unfortunately unless you are planning to do your own work (or have deep pockets), and collect parts and parts cars as a side hobby - they are tough to maintain now due to poor availability of parts and knowledge. Many critical engine and drivetrain parts are no longer manufactured and are never likely to be again. GD

It doesn't. Subaru didn't start doing post cat fuel trim till 2005. That's just a narrow band sensor that is used for cat efficiency monitoring. It has NOTHING to do with fueling calculations. GD

What are you trying to do, and what good parts do you have? What car is it going into?

It's just looking for a simple resistance on the single wire. Probably a harness connector problem or melted wire, etc. You can find all the digital factory manuals over on sl-i.net. just google for them.

I have never had to do that on a Subaru clutch master. The hose will be wet if it's bad. Slave should be good if it's only a year old. Bleeding these can be a process. As a matter of necessity and through shear force of will we developed a process that works 100% in about 10 minutes with two guys. But once upon a time many moons ago I remember spending about 6 hour on one. Just about started throwing tools. And I NEVER throw tools.

Need to check the wiring back to the ECU.

That's a real slim budget for all that. You might get the suspension, skid plates and some basic maintenance done for that. Engine rebuilding is not feasible.... regardless of budget it's a waste of time for your purposes. Get a JDM 2.5 for it.

Check that all the teeth are on the timing belt. And check that it didn't slip time or sheer the key on the crank sprocket. It doesn't have to break to be out of time.

Certainly could be a slave/hose failure. Get new NABCO slave and a new hose.

There's a fool-proof process for the bleeding. It does take two people. We have it down to about 10 minutes. But that doesn't appear to be his problem. If it's stiff pedal when the slave is clamped then it's not a fluid problem. Could be a weak spring behind the slave piston I suppose. But I've seen way too many of those first year LGT push clutches lose their fork......like all of them. And they have that damn dual mass flywheel. The fork was superseded to the 06+ version due to being extremely weak and prone to the legs folding off.

If the pedal is firm with the clamp on the slave then it's not your problem. 05 LGT's had the weak turbo push-clutch fork. And the dual mass flywheel. You need the 08-14 WRX clutch, flywheel and upgraded 06+ fork. And before you end up with a blown turbo - pull all the banjo bolt filters and re-route all the turbo oil feed from the rear block main gallery. GD

98 if you use the intake from the 98, and you will need the exhaust header from a 95. Also if the 98 has EGR you cannot drill and tap that into the 90 head - you will hit a coolant passage. So you have to make other provisions.

No. Just no. That is all.

No. Not even possible.

All you have to do besides take off the wheel is remove the ball joint pinch bolt on the knuckle and pry the ball joint out of the knuckle. Zip off the axle nut and the axle will come out of the knuckle. Then pry it out of the trans. Install is reverse. As for aftermarket... we won't even go there with axles. At one point about three years ago I got 8 bad front axles in a row. Unfortunately 2007/8 is the last year for Subaru reman axles so far. So on a 2010 they are $399 each. Either that or reboot some used ones.