GeneralDisorder

Just saw this. Right ON! But really you need like 5 axis CNC or specialized tooling to build a trochoid pump..... Actually it probably wouldn't be that difficult to build an adapter plate that could route hoses to a belt-driven pump as used in dry-sump systems. Definitely going to cost more than the OEM pump. GD

Not really - you say it used 2.5 gallons of extra water.... that did not apparently end up on the ground - and being these engines usually don't leak from the HG's till they are up to full operating temp - I wouldn't expect to see much on the plugs or pistons, etc. Extended running may show some steam cleaning of the piston tops - if they were otherwise coated in carbon. New head gaskets are frequently installed wrong, the surfaces prepped wrong, or the bolts tightened wrong. For whatever reason this happens quite often on Subaru's - especially to those who aren't initiated into the ways of the Subaru engine. So when I hear that an engine has these symptoms but the HG's were "just replaced by shop X" - my immediate gut reaction was they did the job wrong. I've seen it probably hundreds of times now. It's ridiculous how common it is. GD

The problem is that if the HG's are the source of the coolant leak it will not show up on a compression test AT ALL, and checking for pressure drop with the engine cold will show nothing. They only leak when they get hot. If the engine is out of the car - resurface the heads and replace the gaskets. Check the block for any pitting in the fire ring area. GD

No all the 25D's had 10mm pumps. GD

Yes that would be one solution. It can certainly be done by swapping over entirely to newer drivetrain. And this is how my lifted hatch will live on into the future. But it's not really a viable proposition for people buying old "cheap" Subaru's to drive around. You aren't going to get that done (right and reliable) for any less than $5k to $10k in parts and sweat equity or possibly even more if you are paying someone like me to do it. I'm doing an EJ swap into a Brat right now for a customer. Phase I is to part out the entire (running, driving, perfectly viable) 96 5 speed outback, and 89 XT6 to get all the parts we need to do what he wants. You don't even want to know what the projected cost is on this one. It involves custom lift components to fit the entire EJ subframe under the Brat..... GD

You can't. That's what we have been saying. These cars are not viable drivers anymore. You can't get hardly any parts for the engine anymore. Almost everything is NLA (No Longer Available) from Subaru and they were the only supplier. You won't know if you need one till you pull it. It may only need seals.... but these engines run unfiltered oil through the pump - which has an aluminum housing. They get pretty torn up inside after 100k of "average" maintenance with non-synthetic. I've seen it more times than I can count. GD

Looks fine. Run it. GD

We know how bad the aftermarket one's are - imagine a day (coming soon) when you can no longer buy a viable clutch cable. What then eh? The end is nigh. GD

OEM Subaru clutch and throttle cables.

In my experience - it depends on how the engine has been cared for. I have seen them in good shape at 100k and I have seen the pumps scored to rat$hit at 100k. I have never had much difficulty removing them - just leave the filter attached and use it like a handle to twist the pump. Twist and pull evenly and they come right out typically. You will find that these are fast approaching the stage where they are collectibles and not viable daily drivers. Parts are getting really scarce. GD

When the USMB finally dies out completely - people will just have to call my shop and hope I'm available and in the mood to deal with questions. I have mostly stopped answering the phone because of the telemarketing calls. I get enough of the social media from having a "fakebook" page for my shop (and soon instagripe and snapchit as well I'm sure). I can't stand all the advertising on the social media and the huge waste of time it is to see pictures of what other people had for lunch and the general minutia of their daily lives. I DONT CARE. Also the learned helplessness of the masses. Jeezus. It's just a side-show of foolishness and a giant look-at-me contest. There's no value in it for me. I frequent other applicable car forums besides this one - mostly Chevy stuff. There's still some pretty active ones for the old American iron - most of those old codgers wouldn't consider making the switch to social media platforms. GD

There is no such thing as an "aftermarket" oil pump for an EA81. They were made by Atsugi and then later branded Hitachi - either due to a manufacturer change or acquisition..... all "aftermarket" are just grey market factory units..... The dealer is out of stock forever. So at the present time you can't buy a new oil pump for the EA engines unless you find new old stock on ebay, etc. GD

I did not say that. The 642 and 770 gaskets can be used on the SOHC EJ engines from 99 to 2012. They cannot be directly used on the 96 to 99 DOHC engines without changing the pistons. If you use 99 to 05 pistons you can then use the 642 or 770. Otherwise you absolutely cannot use them as the DOHC pistons will hit the chamber. GD

Many are still available from Subaru. Check with your parts departments.

Probably over charged. Bumping against the high pressure cutout switch. Have you had the AC *professionally* evacuated and recharged? GD

Something was left on when you went into the store. Battery died. Charged back up on your drive home. Pretty simple. GD

Yeah - junk reman axle. Get a reman or a new axle from Subaru. GD

It's especially fun when the shop gets up to about 100 degrees.

No. Wrong engine. And you don't 2.2 swap single cam 2.5's. You just fix the 2.5 GD

Yes that's how we do it. 1/2" glass and this is the cloth we use. https://www.amazon.com/INDUSTRIES-4245-Emery-9-Inch-11-Inch/dp/B000BPNMZ4 We do a 2 step process - we rough both heads down with the new sheet, then we go back over both a second time with the "used" sheet. The grit of the cloth shears down and becomes finer leaving a smoother surface. I check the flatness with a granite surface plate, a machinists straight edge, and then the surface finish with an Ra meter. Ultimately my surface finish is comparable to what my cylinder head shop produces with their CBN flycutter. It's faster for us as there is no wait time for the machine shop and no drop-of/delivery. It's easier to just do it ourselves. GD

I suppose - but we use the 642 or 770 turbo 2.5 gasket that doesn't leak either. GD

We use the 111 on all o-rings, lip seals, oil filter gaskets, thermostat gaskets, etc. Especially any Buna-N (Nitrile) seals. It keeps oxygen from getting at them, which is what ultimately speeds up the hardening and cracking process. We also use it for all dielectric applications since it's a silicone grease. It's food grade so I'm told it goes well with toast. Seriously we love it and use that $hit on EVERYTHING. That and Yield are probably my two favorite shop chems. Also Amsoil HD Metal Protector. We clean them with a lint-free paper towel and brake cleaner because it's a fast evaporating degreaser that leaves no residue and we buy brake clean by the 55 gal drum. We found that our bathroom paper towels that I buy from Costco are essentially lint free. Georgia Pacific Marathon Dispenser Roll Towels. LOL. Cheap too. GD

Just file it smooth(er). It will be fine. GD

99 to 02 leak coolant and oil, 03 to 10 leak only oil. Design change on the gasket. GD

Outer lip of the seal needs to be dry or it may tend to squirt back out. They go in with a fair amount of force (compression) and any lube can make the job impossible. Dow Corning Molykote 111 for the lip. Should be installed just on the inside edge of the chamfer. With the Viton cam/crank seals we don't touch them unless we need to take apart the head or replace the oil pump. If you do - same procedure, just find a socket that fits. GD