GeneralDisorder

Any rising rate fuel pressure regulator capable of handling turbo charging will work. We often upgrade them on the newer stuff. You need to read the code for us to be of any help with the idle. GD

Not super straightforward, but it can be done. I wouldn't suggest starting out with a dual range for your first Subaru transmission. There's a lot going on in the linkage department for the 4WD and the Hi/Lo. But on the other hand they aren't easy to find in good used condition either so you might want to seek out some professional assistance in doing a rebuild while the parts can still be sourced from Subaru. Soon you will not be able to get the parts to do a rebuild. GD

Great job - put it on bittorrent when you find a place to host it. That way it will be out there and once the hosting goes away it will still make the rounds. GD

If you have nothing connected to the only "plug" on the starter, that's your problem. That is the solenoid wire activated by the ignition. It needs to be plugged into the spade connector from the car's harness or nothing will happen when you turn the key. GD

We like a 5w40 for helping with oil control. Amsoil makes a Euro blend in 5w40 that is a little bit cheaper than the 10w40 XL, and is still rated at 10,000 miles. It is the full SAPS blend - IE it does not have the expensive additives used on the reduced SAPS blends specified for certain European car emissions systems. The Euro 5w40 is the oil we sell the most of to our customers. GD

Reman pumps never work on Subarus anyway. Get used one and reseal it with a kit from the dealer or buy a new one From Subaru. GD

You will have codes if you don't use the exact same setup that was on the car. 99 has a rear mounted charcoal canister. 95 does not. Completely different evap systems. GD

You have to check power to the pump while cranking. It will only apply power for about 1.5 seconds when you turn on the key. After that it only powers the pump while cranking or running (tach signal present). After sitting for 20 years - very high probability you will need new injectors, fuel pressure regulator, and I would be surprised if it didn't need a new tank. GD

It's an EA81 with a JDM dual carb manifold that's been sitting and neglected for a long time. Can't tell you any more than that. It could be good inside, or it could be a boat anchor. Flip a coin.

3M 07528

These are pressed in bearings. And they should not be done in an actual press. Per Subaru.

All Subaru cranks are Forged. The design having too many main/rod bearings too close to each other precludes the use of a casting. It wouldn't hold up. They are very thin in cross-section between the bearings. We routinely run the stock nitrided EJ257 crank up to 600+ HP with no problems.

Nothing. You cannot resurface the block side without complete disassembly. We use the Subaru recommended 3M "white" abrasive finger wheels to clean the block deck. If you have pitting of the fire ring surface you can fill it with metal epoxy and block sand it or leave it as is. GD

Run compression test first.

It is normal to peg the gauge when the oil is cold. 90+ psi is easily possible with cold oil. Subaru engines have the unfortunate consequences of being aluminum block / iron crank. This means when cold the clearances are twice as small and that only makes the thick oil situation worse. Oil pressure is the consequence of resistance to flow. Cold oil naturally resists flow, and so do tight clearances. Don't load the engine when cold. The rod bearings and heads will not receive an adequate oil flow for loaded conditions. Aluminum block engines must always be brought up to operating temp prior to loading. GD

Doubt it. If so that would be the first and only Subaru in history to have a plastic tank. GD

Factory style struts have adjustable lower spring perches, but it *ucks your camber. Get a proper lift kit if you want it higher. ADF. GD

You may as well pull the tank out. 10 years.... tank will be disgusting inside and will need to be opened up, media blasted, and coated. Or replaced with one that hasn't been off the road so long.

Wheel bearing. Bring it down to the shop and we can give you a quote. It is unlikely you want to do this yourself. GD

Jumper out the starter enable relay and see if it stops doing it. If it still does it then you likely need a starter, or the wires/terminals are damaged. This is not a complicated circuit.

That's a 4WD GL hatch. Should be an EA81 1800 engine. Could be an EA71 fat-case swapped from a STD hatch but those are exceptionally rare so it's doubtful. Probably someone stuck a 1600 badge on it and it's really an 1800. GD

We have had the gates belts fail before 105k with no contributing factors. More than once. We will not use any gates products at this point. They have misrepresented their kits, changed parts to Chinese without warning, and made promises they didn't keep. We buy a LOT of timing components and we buy the individual pieces from the manufacturers Subaru uses at the factories. Mitsuboshi, Koyo, NTN, NSK, and Aisin. GD

What you are doing is how we do it. What brand of belt are you using. The Mitsuboshi belts usually don't fight much like that.

Get an Odyssey and a dealer reman alt. Be done with it and move on to more important things. All the time being wasted is staggering. How much do you charge per hour at work? Your time is worth more than dinking around with charging system tests at auto parts stores. Those monkeys don't know $hit. And they sell $hit too. GD

You think? Have you opened it up? They are easy to repair.