GeneralDisorder

Welding that dirty cast aluminium with JB contamination isn't an option without removing it from the engine bay. Might as well replace it. The EA82 doesn't have enough valve cover bolts to not leak without one of them. Even a dual cam EJ will leak without one of the corner bolts. Shouldn't be too hard to find a cam carrier from a core motor. Perfect reason to do an EJ swap - or just buy a car with an EJ that you can actually get parts for. The EA82 is a dead platform for anyone but those with many parts and parts cars. GD

That's going to be a bad wheel speed sensor. GD

You need to replace the camshaft carrier, not the head. GD

What happens when it needs a new oil pump? Yep the EA81 pumps are now discontinued as well as the EA82 pumps. Engine swap? Hardly seems worth the effort - just get a legacy and drive that. Or a Baja if you must have a tiny bed. Can easily pull a trailer with a Legacy and get the same fuel economy. First and even second generation Legacy's are now worth scrap value and you can get most parts including virtually every mechanical part on the car. I get where you are coming from but it's a losing battle and there are better, cheaper (both in time and money) options to get the job done. GD

No longer available. The only thing coming up anymore is Gabriel for the 4WD models. It's that or used. Welcome to 35 year old orphaned platforms. I've said it many times before - these are not viable daily drivers for the vast majority. Can't get many important maintenance parts. The market isn't there to support their manufacture. So you have to make custom or find new old stock. Or modify newer parts. GD

You can perform a volumetric efficiency calculation to check the MAF. And yes a lean code would certainly implicate it baring any vacuum leaks. Fuel trims would show positive numbers greater than 5 for sure. Takes 25+ to throw a 171. Glad you got it resolved. We see quite a few MAF failures from that era. GD

97 should be the new style tensioner. Could be bad. Check the oil, then check the tensioner. GD

No the input shaft should stay in the trans. Install it just as you have it in that pic.

Yeah heat it with a hair dryer if not a heat gun. Can always buy one from Harbor Freight and return it. I have never understood the switch to cartridge filters.... the only positive I have seen is they are easier to inspect for metal.... I'm fairly certain the cartridge filter design was to make them more environmentally friendly. Easier to recycle. Possibly some type of government involvement. GD

If it runs fine when cold, then unplug the upstream O2 sensors and see if that corrects the fueling issues when hot. Sounds like when it goes into closed loop you have an O2 sensor that is skewing your fuel trims. That would probably also explain the converter malfunctions if the O2's are bad. Probably has AFR's in that year. Just unplug them and force open loop fuel maps at all times. GD

You mean the input shaft? The "pump shaft" is the tube...... I've never measured I just push them in till they are seated. Whatever the shortest measurement is I would say. GD

Shouldn't be a problem till the scene of the fiery accident when the fuel is being pumped into the engine bay fire with your unconscious body mere inches from the blazing inferno. GD

Yeah all the Euro stuff is complete trash. VW is near the top of the list of "do not buy" Euro trash. People that buy Euro cars new are hilariously uninformed or are just buying them on lease with the full intent to trade it in after 3-5 years. These cars are the automotive equivalent to the latest model cell phones - designed for a "lifetime" of the lease term. After that the manufacturer (if they haven't been sold off to the Chinese like Volvo) could care less what you experience is with it. You aren't their customer - the guy that traded it in is. GD

You likely need a scan tool that can read manufacturer specific codes. Go to a real shop and have it scanned with one that didn't cost $9.99 on fleabay. GD

Yeah caliper isn't going to be quite accurate enough. Last one I saw was .003" out of round and that was enough to allow 1/4" of play at the tire with a new bearing in the knuckle. The whole outer race could move because the bore was oval. I wouldn't tolerate more than .0005" out of round for fear of repeat failure. Can't get that accurate with a caliper and you can't get deep enough to check the entirety of the bore. GD

Only way to know is to check the bare knuckle with a bore gauge and see how out of round it is. GD

Here's a pic of the shaft in question: GD

Yes it's the tube surrounding the stator splined shaft in the pic. You will need a 90 degree pick tool to pull it out where you can get at the wire clip, etc. You can grab it by the raised notches that interface with the TC tube. GD

Yes I actually have that one printed out in a binder to show customers in my lobby. We see a fair number of wheel bearings get screwed up by other shops and DIY'ers. I like to point out that Subaru specifically bans the use of hydraulic presses due to the high likelihood of deforming the bearing pocket (have seen this personally) or tweaking the knuckle making alignment impossible or difficult. The knuckle are very soft and almost always require replacement in even minor accidents where the wheel was involved in a collision. Just replaced the front and rear DS knuckles on a 13 WRX that hit some concrete. Bent the front lower control arm and the entire rear suspension cradle. Both knuckles were toast. GD

Computer lost its memory. Low voltage, poor solder joints, stray cosmic rays. The world may never know. GD

Pull the pan, cut the filter. Knocking when hot is usually a rod. GD

I think you not understanding which part we are talking about. In that diagram the pump drive is #7. It's a hollow tube about 2" in diameter. You need to fish it out of the trans. GD

It's usually on the pump drive. Sometimes they fall off. Look around. GD

Won't work without custom intake manifold adapters, and won't work at all if the cam/crank trigger wheels don't match. Phase II uses a narrower timing belt and different idlers so the cam sprockets will not swap. The 99 is not a hybrid really - it's still phase I from the pistons on out. Sure it has 52mm rods (which EJ22's already had in phase I), and they moved the thrust and added extra bell-housing bolts. That's not enough to call it a hybrid. Besides - fix the 2.5. the 2000 is a better engine than the 99. GD

Start at the fuel pump control unit mounted above the hood release cable bracket - it's either a 6 pin black or 5 pin blue box that controls fuel pump power based on tach pulse (coil neg.) input. If you don't have a factory service manual for 84, find one on ebay. Aftermarket manual diagrams are worthless. GD