GeneralDisorder

More than 1/qt per 1000 miles is my cut off for repair. If that happens then you need new rings. You can also replace the PCV valve first and see if the consumption goes back down. GD

You can have the u-joint and yokes replaced by a driveshaft shop. Usual cost is about $200. Or you can just cut it. GD

Call Earl about getting some made: https://retroautodecals.mysimplestore.com/

Hacksaw. Done. GD

You can wire an inverter into any 12v car. Nothing unique about a Subaru. GD

Oil consumption is normal. If you run synthetic it shouldn't increase much over the life of the engine. It's also a good thing for fuel economy. Low tension rings are now the norm. Get used to it and learn to appreciate the engineering and added fuel economy. You are laboring under the assumption that oil consumption is both unnatural and unwanted. It is neither. This is not 1980 and engines are not built to have zero consumption anymore. It is not possible to meet the EPA requirements and the increasing demand for economy without reducing friction and thus increasing consumption. GD

Just remove the dust shield on the bottom of the bell-housing when you have the engine pulled up in the cradle. It's not anything like a "nightmare". We do it daily and my tech's don't complain about it all. The injectors are likely just fine. I wouldn't mess with them. GD

Will require head gaskets if they haven't been done or have been done with the factory gasket. These engine burn copious amounts of oil if they have had poor maintenance with non-synthetics. This leads to a fair number of bottom end failures. Usually just go into this expecting to do HG's, timing belt/water pump/idlers, and radiator/hoses. If they have been done it's likely they have been done wrong or with crap parts. GD

You automatically fail with unready monitors. You don't have a 96 ECU by chance do you? That would never go ready. GD

EA81 rebuild is not viable. Can't get the parts to do it, and you don't have the expertise needed to do a case split, etc. No one has a deck plate to bore it or a jig for doing the main line and cam line. Without doing the main line and cam line the clearances will be complete $hit and it won't last to speak of. Realistically it can't be done without a LOT of money. EJ swap really isn't worth it. You would have to ditch the 4 speed - those are junk with 75 HP. With 135 HP it would just be junk that much faster. Honestly - you want a reliable Subaru - this isn't that. Can't get the parts to do it anymore. Can't find engines - even 5 speed D/R transmissions are hard to get. Get a 1st or 2nd gen Legacy or an early Forester. Still lots of parts for those. GD

Get a Primitive Racing skid plate if you are concerned. Throw the plastic junk away. GD

How much oil are you consuming? GD

Remove computer, and throw into nearest landfill. Install Weber. GD

Naw - just cut the hose off back behind the quick connect and patch in a section of tubing with a flare, and a flare to barb fitting. The trick is going to be finding anything that's metric. Metric tubing, metric flaring tools, etc are tough to find in the US and expensive. That's likely about 8mm metric tubing but definitely measure. You need this, but in metric for whatever tubing size you are dealing with: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-824550 GD

On that style you just press in on the white plastic tabs and it will pull off. It's a special end on the pipe that you can't replicate with any reasonably priced tooling that I know of. You are going to have to replace that with some braided stainless hose and do some metric bubble flares to either swivel fittings or barb fittings, etc. This isn't going to be easy really. You might want to seek professional help. GD

Complete 25D with 251 pistons and 04-07 STi head gaskets (642's or 770's). We do them all the time. GD

Orders of magnitude more accurate than the dash gauge which is a charge/no charge indicator at best. If it's off by a few tenths of a volt (which I doubt), would it really even matter? The dash gauge isn't wired directly to the main junction or the alt - it just gets power from the same source as all the other gauges in the cluster. In my hatch the dash gauge fluctuates (seemingly for no reason other than it wishes to do so) between about 12.5 and 14.5 while the Maxima alt is putting out a steady 14.5. I am quite sure that little Amazon goody will be just fine if used correctly. GD

https://www.amazon.com/LIHAN-Charger-Display-Voltage-Current/dp/B01JA627KU?keywords=cigarette+lighter+volt+meter&qid=1529391679&sr=8-7&ref=mp_s_a_1_7 GD

22 intake doesn't bolt to the 251 heads. That's a negative. GD

Either the pump is bad or you have some suspension problems perhaps. Strut mounts, etc. GD

They might. I've seen that too. At the least they will put it back stock which is just about the same as screwing it up. Forged pistons, Killer-B oil pickup, and a silicone turbo inlet are bare minimum in my opinion for making these reliable. And of course air pump delete. That's a given. GD

Doesn't hurt to ask. But I doubt it will work. Banks.... banks are where you get money. GD

Uh.... that's nuts. But it's a typical dealer quote. We can do a lot better for a lot less. About $6,500 for a new engine/turbo from Subaru, and about $8,500 for new engine with upgrades like forged pistons, race bearings, larger turbo, tuning, etc. This is fairly typical. Bring it down to Portland. I'll get you sorted. GD

Cylinder "glaze" is a fantasy. The rings were shot and plugged up with failed oil. GD

I mean - I'm not really seeing the downside here..... the 3AT's haven't had any parts support for a while. Trans shop came to us for an oil pump drive shaft and one of my guys had to dig through his scrap pile to find some that the splines were only half chewed off so they could put a Loyale back on the road for some elderly couple. This just means more manual swaps. GD