GeneralDisorder

No seat switches that I am aware of. Even the Legacy belts operate blindly without an occupant. I'm telling you - you are wasting your time. The diagnostics on these are intense and it's not going to get fixed. There's no parts available anymore. Just get manual belts. GD

Always been that way. Mitsuboshi has multiple factories. All of them are "managed" by Japanese oversight. They have upper management Japanese on-site. Thailand and Malaysia are like Japan's Mexico. All those parts are fine I've installed thousands of them with zero failures. I have had two Gates belts come apart before 105k, and all of their kits have Chinese idlers and some weird tensioner made in Canada. I won't buy them for several years now. GD

I've done about 40-50 of these swaps. Directions are not required. Neither is a kit. Get the carb, adapter, and low profile air filter. On the EA82 you will want a 60 or 65 idle jet. Rip off everything that isn't the manifold itself. Throw it all away. Run a vac line to the distributor. Tune idle mixture and speed. GD

Convert to manual belts. The auto belts are a pain in the a$$. GD

Carb is clapped out. Get a Weber. Understanding it isn't require. It's a carb - it works on venturi's, pressure differential, emulsion tubes, and jets (orifices) just like all the others. It's clapped out and no amount of futzing with it will magically turn it into a Weber. Don't waste your time. GD

There is no module. The fuel pump receives power directly from the relay. The relay is controlled by the ECU. Make sure you test for voltage drop or you might miss a poor connection. I've seen several instances of corroded or burnt fuel pump power connections on older Subaru's. GD

No one makes anything for that car. You can't even get timing components anymore to perform regular maintenance. The engine wouldn't handle a turbocharger in any case - too fragile. Also can't be tuned, compression is too high, etc, etc. Those cars are not really daily driveable even at this point. You can't get any parts to maintain them unless you buy up a fleet of parts cars. Best thing to do is swap the drivetrain with a WRX. But that costs a lot of money and is entirely custom. There's no kit for that either. GD

A 2005 Outback is drive by wire. So you would be buying the entire DBW assembly, not an IACV. You can likely find a good used one. GD

Ah yes - with the updated gasket (the 770 is also used in the 2.5 single cam belt motor's but not till 11-13 Legacy models) it should never have that problem again. I've never had a repeat failure. GD

If you like an oily, messy engine that smokes off the exhaust manifold, stinks, etc then go right ahead. No one is stopping you. It's not a matter of oil leakage - the leaks never amount to enough to have to add. If you are adding it's either the PCV valve or the rings. It is NOT the HG's. Fixing them will not result in ANY change the level of consumption. Once you look at the cost of doing the FULL 105k with all timing components, valve lash, etc - it's only about $1k more to do the HG's at the same time. If you use the 642/770 you won't have a recurring failure. If you use the old 633 gasket then you are absolutely right - don't bother. GD

EA81 will not bolt up to the transmission, and will hit the steering shaft unless you use the cradle from an 81 Brat GL. If you use the 86 4 speed then you may be able to modify the cradle or something to fit them with the stock steering setup. I've never tried it. GD

Yep. Mike's got it. The 642 gasket is from the '04 to '07 EJ255/257 and the 770 is from the 8+ EJ257 GD

Have to split the case on all of them. EA81 included.

Legacy L's already have them. If it's a GT or Outback, then no, the replacement is a Phase I. Also the Phase II EJ222 is not the excellent engine the Phase I was. They have a tendency toward oil consumption and rings are dealer only and very expensive. You may as well just use a Phase II 2.5 as they were essentially the same with 20 more HP. GD

The chains and guides are usually fine. The water pump and tensioners fail. GD

You can't re-torque them. The final value for the bolts is not a torque value - it's a degree value. So how are you going to check this? The dealer uses the wrong gaskets on these engines. They should be using the 642 or 770 gasket. Expect failure again within about 40k miles. Nothing you can do about it. GD

Pump is bad. You will do all this work for nothing. Don't say you weren't warned. You MUST get a factory pump. Period. GD

If you can't afford gaskets for the carb then I highly suggest you sell the broken Durango, sell the Brat (they fetch a good price when the body is nice) and buy an older Corolla/Geo Prizm. Old Subaru's are difficult and hard to get parts for. Carb anything is tough these days especially old Japanese Hitachi carbs. They are fairly complex and I don't recommend rebuilding by the uninitiated - let alone without any parts on hand. That is sure to leave you worse off than you are now. GD

Throw the carb in the dumpster. You need a Weber 32/36 DGV, adaptor plate, and short filter. Have the distributor rebuilt with new bushings and a new vacuum advance. Rip off all the vacuum plumbing - you only need two vac lines. Distributor Advance and EGR. GD

642's are turbo gaskets from 04 to 07 models. They will work fine also. They are not the gasket for a 2005 Forester NA. Is this a turbo model? If it is, those gaskets don't usually fail. GD

It's called turbo lag. It's normal. GD

You need a new pump from Subaru at this point. Aftermarket is garbage and they never work right. You also need to replace the suction hose from the reservoir to the pump. The new pump will come with the elbow o-ring. GD

Ultra-Grey will probably work just fine. I use the Three-Bond because I am rebuilding engines and when putting the case halves together, etc I want to use the sealant specifically rated by Subaru for that purpose. Due to shear strength, and oil passage proximity, etc. When I worked industrial machinery we had an exclusive North American distribution for Kobelco rotary screw compressors from Japan and were required to use a specific type of three-bond on all oil fittings as it was designed to not clog small passages. Every since I saw the results of using non-approved sealants near oil passages I don't mess around with that anymore. The oil pan isn't near any oil feed passages so I wouldn't worry about using a Permatex, etc. I know some of the Permatex products are approved substitutes by SOA but I haven't got any of the docs handy on that and it really doesn't come up for us since we just buy the Japanese sealant. GD

Use them frequently to check fan and fuel pump relays, etc. VERY useful. All manufacturers should include this feature. If more people were somewhat electrically savvy they would be able to diagnose on the side of the road. And they would know better than the try to fix it when it's not broken. Can't tell you how many times I've seen people plug those in just because "it doesn't look right disconnected". Keep your grubby little hands off the inner workings of your vehicle if you don't know what you are doing! GD

That's ridiculous - must be something in the water out on the east coast. People here are glad to help - we buy it by the case (6 tubes). It's about $110 for a case from Nissan. It's also sold all over the net. GD