GeneralDisorder

I can understand if the engine already burns or leaks such a large quantity its not practicable. Or in the cases where the body is so rusted out by 200k it doesn't matter how the car runs its still scrap. Ok I can see that. But if you start from a solid foundation - and do rust prevention, proper maintenance, etc - there's no real reason you can't get the benefits of synthetic for essentially free if you value your time and do the required math to scale up the intervals. Investing in bypass filtration further increases the savings and will pay for itself. Many fleets have come to this conclusion. Scheduled maintenance and unscheduled downtime is expensive labor when you paying equipment operators to sit around while their truck is being serviced. GD

Glad you didn't have anything break. I would say you got off easy if you just need that bypass pipe. It's only $22 new. GD

Synthetic makes a difference. I have 320k on a 1990 Legacy 2.2. Not only does it run, it runs PERFECT, and when I replaced the head gaskets at 286k you could serve up dinner with the valve covers. It uses NOT A DROP of oil. And my Amsoil rep has 470k on an old Jetta. Can you get 250k out of an engine running conventional? Yes. But that same engine may last twice as long or 4x as long if it had synthetic. You can also double or triple (with filter change halfway) your oil change interval. This saves time, resources, and replacing engines. With bypass filtration, filter changes, and top offs you could pretty much go indefinitely without changing it. The big rigs do. Many will run 500k without an actual oil change. Just filter, bypass filter, and top off. The oil will not break down. It will shear down to a lower viscosity and you will need to replenish the additives but otherwise it never wears out or breaks down. Why you wouldn't use this amazing technology is beyond me. It's about the same price (or cheaper if you count your time) if you take full advantage of its abilities. GD

Subaru is in the business of selling (new) cars. Oil companies would love to sell more oil. Full synthetic ("high mileage" is bull$hit), WIX filters (better than the Honeywell/Fram SOA filters) and 6,000 mile changes. You can go more depending on the oil and if you change the filter/top off as needed. As an engine builder I can tell you EMPHATICALLY - you will wreck the engine and get half it's life with conventional and the recommended intervals. None of the common filters are good for more than 5k miles. GD

They are no longer available. You will have to find used or contact a place like Manley and custom valves made.

The Phase II 2.2 engine isn't worth rebuilding. Sorry you went through that. The 2.5 is a direct replacement for it, and the phase-II 2.2 engine had problems with oil consumption. It was dropped because it wasn't any more efficient than the 2.5, has expensive parts, and makes 15 less HP. GD

That type of noise is typically a bearing failure. Either wheel bearing or possibly differential carrier bearings. The axle joint will move on the splined stub, but the splined stub should be fairly tight in the transmission. They can move a little as they are snap-ring clipped into the spider gear and this is not a hard connection. It can have a little in/out play but shouldn't have much, and very little side play if any. GD

Yeah and I've done more. Lost count years ago. Trust me it doesn't always work. On at least 3 occasions I have had to reroute the purge around the hardlines.

Inner and outer seals (get them from Subaru), and yes there MUST be a spacer between the two bearings. GD

That will not work. The hard lines are not large enough in diameter to allow enough purge flow and you still get the code. Also some setups have the MAP sensor T'd differently. You must run new hose and not use the hard line in most cases as it will still throw a purge flow code if you don't. GD

Hello? Mcfly? Replace the lifter o-rings. The lifters aren't dirty. That's not your problem. GD

I have no idea. We didn't get those. Maybe but I wouldn't count on it without significant modifications. GD

You need to reroute the EVAP lines exactly as they are on the hood sticker. And you can't use the hardlines on the intake as they are not large enough to flow sufficient volume for the ECU to be ok. The problem is definitely with the engine swap not being plumbed correctly. You could try the 95 converter. But the Amazon adapter will be a sure bet and quicker. GD

You have to fix the evap and catalytic converter systems. Try one of these for the catalyst: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTA6OXG/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2NMBIZOMZLC5C For the EVAP you will have to find the leak. Smoke machine is the best way. Don't forget it could be the gas cap too. GD

Advice? Don't. GD

You don't need to lift the engine typically on the EA81's. Don't use a gasket. Just use Three Bond 1217H. GD

What do you mean? There's only a donut between the y pipe and mid-pipe, and a single two bolt gasket for the mid pipe to muffler. GD

Oil flow restriction is unlikely. The port that feeds the head is about 7/16" in diameter so I can't see how that would get plugged. If it is throw that engine in the dumpster cause its toast. Most likely you just need new lifter o-rings. It's about $40 for 16 of them from the dealer. GD

1572 is an immobilizer code. Either call out a locksmith or take it to the dealer. Those are the easiest ways to get that fixed. GD

The one exception to that is the later EJ's with the cast aluminium upper oil pan and the COP ignition.... right before they introduced the FB. Those actually don't have mounts in that locations at all - they use wings on the side of the trans, and a pitch mount on the front radiator core support. GD

They interchange just fine. We swap them all the time. Some STI's come with the round gel mounts and we upgrade them to Group-N or Cusco (square style) all the time. GD

You can get varying thicknesses of head gaskets from Cometic. Those engines have a pretty close tolerance between the piston dome and the head chamber. We have had to do that a time or two. You may have to mildly slot the intake. But it can be done. We have a high compression engine that we shaved the heads .040" and had to slot the intake, use a ratchet strap on the exhaust, and also use adjustable timing belt idlers with eccentric's in them to realign the belt. But it can be done. Subaru's specs are for being able to assemble it without any modifications. GD

With that much corrosion - be prepared for the cross-over bolts to snap off in the block. They are only M6 and even here where nothing rusts we occasionally have one snap off. Be ready with the left hand bits, and the heli-coil set. GD

Not a bad deal if the engine is in good shape. Definitely would cost more to collect it all yourself. GD

It must come from a Forester. The angle of the radiator hose nipple is different. I might have one. I had a stack of about 50 of those cross-overs. I had one of the high school kids that hang around go through them and toss a bunch in the aluminium recycle. Post a picture of the angle you need and what ports it has for heater, TB hoses, and CTS, etc. I may be able to match it up. GD