GeneralDisorder

You won't toast your tranny - at the most you will break an axle. They are the weakest link. GD

Brat tank is 14.5 I can go at least 300 on a tank in my Brat... I'm getting about 28 MPG right now. GD

Just so you know, the vents are the same for all the 82+ EA81's... really hard to find in good shape tho. GD

Absolutely - I was refering to total advance as the sum of all possible advance in the system. Ported vacuum also rises in pressure even with a fully opened throttle plate. I want to say that it's a linear relationship, but I'm not totally sure on that. The rising vacuum comes from the low pressure that develops in the venturi of the carb - which is there regardless of throttle position. It's actually a function of the speed of the incomming air, not the throttle plate position per se. But the plate position does of course change the maximum flow rate, so of course has an indirect effect on this value. At wide open throttle, and high RPM's, the intake air speed should be at it's maximum and thus the vacuum advance unit would be fully deployed. In the case of manifold vacuum, at wide open throttle, there is no appreciable vacuum present in the manifold, so the advance unit is not deployed at all. I hope I explained that ok.... hehe And I do concur that this is an excelent debate thus far. GD

If it doesn't have power windows could you grab the drivers upper door panel for me? They come off really easy..... GD

If it's in any kind of decent tune, you ought to get at least 300 miles to a tank, and still have about 2.5 gallons left (that's figureing 25 MPG). But I understand what your saying. I am getting about 28 MPG on my Brat right now... still trying to get it higher if I can. GD

Haha - beat you to it Mick! You can also tell by the bumper, the hatch latch, and the rubber seal..... :-p GD

Not a Brat - wagon for sure..... 83 or 84 ..... can I have the rear axles??? GD

The links are all about GM cars.... none of them quote anything specific to Subaru's and in the last link the guys is quoteing something he read somewhere with absolutely no references that I could find to this source... Stated right in the article on corvette forum: And: This man knows what he's talking about - he's very careful to state that the whole system must be taken into account when making modifications like these. And as I have stated before, I'm talking about stock disty's, not special recurved ones, with different vac can's. Another point I would like to make, is that nobody drives at idle. While it may help you not to overheat (not a problem with a well tuned cooling system) at idle, and it may run smoother (also not a problem if the engine is in good overall tune - no vac leaks etc), but it doesn't do much for driveability from there on. Basically, it comes down to - do you want the additional advance when the throttle plates are open or closed? I want it when they are open (low manifold vac, high ported vac) for best acceleration performance. Having it come in when the plates are closed (high manifold vac, low ported vac) certainly makes for nice smooth, cool idleing, but that isn't a problem on a properly tuned EA series engine anyway even running on ported vac..... so I see little point in running this way unless you redesign the system to use a different advance can that fully deploys at a lower vacuum, and a mechanical advance that can make more advance without the vacuum assistance. I think the mechanical advance comes in so quickly (1700) because it's not actually full advance - it's only a total of 23, instead of 33 when the vac advance fully kicks in from the rising ported vacuum.... that probably happens at the typical 3k - 4k RPM's. I need to get a vacuum gauge to take some detailed readings on that tho. I will test the advance without the vac unit using my light tho to see when it does in fact come in. GD

you'll need at least: pedal box clutch + flywheel driveline (different length for manual) rear differential (unless your going to an RX style box) shift linkage interior consoles I probably missed a thing or two..... GD

For your oil pressure, get an oil pump reseal kit - $9 from the dealer, and takes about 30 minutes to install. It will help imensly. GD

The tunnel on the turbo's may very well be larger. The floorpan sheet metal is a different part number for every model / transmission type. I could imagine that they made the tunnel bigger to accomidate a turbo exhaust, but I have no way of knowing for sure. The tunnels also changed by year of manufacture, and there is no way to know what you will find in there. Just have to rip into it. Rear main's are cheap, at less than $10, and even if the clutch is good, at least change the bearings. Just remember on the seal to use silicone on the outer edge, and grease on the inner edge. Oh and remember to use locktite on the flywheel bolts to seal them off from the oil passage they are drilled into. GD

Yep - and if you DONT pass, then you must have reciepts from a mechanic detailing what was fixed AND a pass slip showing that you passed after the repair. HAHAHA GD

Go for it - should be a pretty straight bolt-in. GD

It's called "Gauranteed to pass" made by CRC I think. You can find it at NAPA, and some other places. Probably won't do anything for a carbed engine. It's about $8. Might as well flush it down the toilet with a carbed motor, as it really can't do anything for you. Make sure your timing is set correctly, your idle speed is at about 800-900, and fix ANY vacuum leaks you find. MOST IMPORTANT is to make sure your EGR valve is working properly. The EGR valve is responsible for removing about 15-20% of the COx emmissions. If this doesn't bring the CO down, then retard the timing to 0 degrees, or even a few degrees ATDC. You should pass no problem with your timing retarded that far..... assuming it runs well enough to get to the station. Might have to get out and push at the stop lights. hehehe GD

Hopefully, you won't have too many issues with the tranny tunnel, but there's a couple of small things you will have to do. For one thing, the 4WD lever mount does not exist on your car, so you will have to drill out the spot welds, and bolt it down to your tunnel after making a slight indentation for it with your hammer: http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo55 The shifter hole will need to be enlarged a bit. Make a template from your donor car so you know the size and shape to cut it to. In one of the pictures above you can see where I did this to my car (it was 2WD, so yours will look slightly different, but you get the idea). The auto tunnel's are bigger than my 2WD tunnel was, but you may still need to beat on the tunnel like I had to in order to get the tranny all the way up into it. You can also add some washers to the tranny x-member, and the radius rod plates to make a mini body lift just so the tranny does not rub the tunnel. You should probably replace your clutch and your rear main seal while your in there, as it would suck to have to pull the engine after you're done with the tranny. Oh - and do this to your shifter while you have it out, shifting will be much tighter, and you will not have to worry about it again. Also much easier to do with the tranny out. http://usmb.net/gallery/GeneralDisorders-Subaru-Pictures/shifter_play_fix GD

I think he was refering to a riser between the carb and filter, not between the carb and the manifold. GD

That's going to be a problem then, as the subaru wheels have fairly unique backspacing. Well - at least I haven't seen the same on any 6 lug rims I've played with. All the truck rims your going to find will leave your tires sticking out a good 2" or more..... maybe something from a car? I don't even know if something like that exists. You could call up stockton wheel and have them make whatever you like probably. Wouldn't be cheap tho. GD

Just use two round filters... check redline's web site - they might have some with the same size opening. You could probably make an adaptor for the carbs if nothing else. GD

Quite a while ago, and in Eugene. They might still be there, but I don't plan on going down there for a while. GD

Is the play vertical or horizontal? Horizontal is normal (in and out, not up and down) - as Zapar mentioned. Vertical (or horizontal front and back) could indicate a failure of the front differential bearings. GD

EA81 and EA82 automatics are renown the world over for being pretty crappy. I wouldn't count on it handling "extra" power. Almost without exception the ones I've encountered have either been dead, or shifted strangely. The problem is heat, and bad maintenance. Unlike the rest of the Subaru parts, these need a lot of attention. Changeing the fluid every 15k, and adding a cooler would be adviseable, but that would have virtually no effect on the govenor gear, as that runs off the front diff, and thus runs in gear oil, not hydraulic fluid. When the diff drive gear gets sloppy, it will eat a governor gear every couple hundred miles! The governor also is a precision part, and in order to shift smoothly, the edges have to be "dressed" with a file as they tend to develop burrs and flat spots. I also had an EA81T wagon that chewed up it's forward drive gears. Still worked in reverse tho. hehe. I personally would stay away from ANY automatics of that vintage. Maybe if you found one with really, really low miles, and started doing extremely regular maintenance. But with the modifications you are talking about, I don't understand why you want an auto anyway. The torque converter is extremely inneficient, and will chew up a good amount of your HP. The EA series auto's that I've driven could barely get out of their own way with a running start.... GD

The initial setting for that screw is 4 turns out BTW. GD

I think grounded should read full. I would check the wires to the sending unit... GD

The governor thing is pretty simple - and could account for your shifting problems - I would at least try it. Those auto's are pretty crappy tho, and it could fail at any time on you. I would make plans to swap it out sooner rather than later, as you are just seeing the beginings of the iminent demise of your tranny. Would suck to chew up the governor gear, or lose all your forward gears and get stranded somewhere with it. GD