GeneralDisorder

YAY! no cam cases here..... GD

Ok - maybe someone can help me here... I have always been under the impression that EA81 U-joints are not serviceable.... and that in order to replace them, a driveline shop must be employed to install new yoke's on the driveline capable of holding serviceable joints. Now I know that Qman had one built for his hatch with all serviceable joints.... My aforementioned confusion comes from the various drivelines which I have sitting around my house right now... The one which came off my wagon right after doing the 4WD swap is pictured below. Now this one has zirk fittings on BOTH ends for the u-joints. Leading me to believe that possibly these joints had already gone bad, and the major work needed to replace them has already been done..... ie, to install new joints would be pretty easy and cheap? This also makes sense, as the vehicle this driveline came from had approximately 320k miles on it, and very likely could have been on it's second set of joints. Now the driveline that's IN my wagon right now (the one you gave me Qman), has no zirk fitting in the front, but it does have one in the rear joint. So maybe just that joint was replaced? I took a look at some other drivelines I have around - the one's that are in my Brat, and my friend's Brat that's in my garage, and also the one that's in the new white wagon all have no zirk fittings on either end.... So did I get lucky with this driveline and end up with one that already has serviceably joints installed? If so, how do I go about changing them? - they are clicking quite a bit. Front joint: The rear joint: GD

Also - either one can be converted to the other pretty cheap.... and I do believe that redline also sells a conversion kit for around $30 to make either one a manual choke..... GD

Wow - sounds like this freeze plug thing is pretty common - I'll have to look into that, as the engine *was* a rebuilt apparently, and just maybe the plugs were aftermarket, and popped out. That sure would be nice if that were the case. GD

It might, but I would tend to think the urethane too soft for bushings. They do make other types of plastics that would do the job tho. Something with the properties of nylon would work I should think. Are you talking about 4 speed bushings or 5 speed bushings? GD

Skip - can I come play in your shop with you? Looks like a lot more fun than mine..... GD

Hhhhmmm - an interesting possiblily. I'll certainly have a look at those. Thanks for drawing my attention to that. GD

Brought this one home today - got it for a song since it "doesn't run" Nice interior and pretty good looker I think. Anyway - the reason for it not running became obvious as soon as I removed the air filter..... all 5 pounds of it - soaked in "milkshake". Now the owner said that he had a rebuilt engine put in less than 2 years ago..... so what kind of damage can I expect to see from all this water and oil mix being run through the thing? We drained a full 2 gallons of this chocolate shake stuff out of the pan, and there's at least another quart there in the bottom. Obviously he drove it some this way - he said he drove it home, and pretty much parked it after that. I can find no evidence of metal shavings to indicate that any bearings have gone, and we poured some gas in it, and it cranked over for a few secconds - sounded alright.... GD

Yeah - makes sense now that I think about it - since there's no room back there for a big tank. Thanks for the stats Ken.... All this time I was thinking the EA81's only had 2 types of tanks.... now I see there's 4! Amazing. Also interesting to note the fuel pressure of the carbed pump - 1.35 - 2.06 psi. Not quite enough for a Weber according to most literature. GD

Really? I thought all EA81 4WD tanks were the same....?!?! Of course I could be wrong.... GD

Yeah - those things are often picked on cars in the local Portland yards. I would sugest takeing a trip to the salem Pick-A-Part (not U-Pull-It) down in Turner, OR. Or to B&R auto wrecking down in Eugene. GD

I haven't made any engine mounts yet - but I certainly could. The engine mounts are almost always still good in my experience, so there hasn't been much talk of those yet. Also - urethane will increase vibration at idle more with urethane engine mounts than it does for just the small tranny mounts..... GD

Just out of curiosity, how long did you let them cure before installing them? Maybe I didn't let them cure long enough or something. I waited overnight, and they seemed well cured to me.... GD

Yeah - the pistons thread back in I think. Try threading it OUT first a little ways, and then back in - and remove the bleeder screw too. This usually works for me. GD

The gear oil will come out of the rear of the trans without the driveline on, and the "cup" that's back there just slides on. so it might just *appear* to have leaked from the removal, but not actually leak when installed. GD

Thanks for the support! If someone doesn't start making these, we'll all end up paying the $55 each for new ones to SOA. And I would rather have urethane mounts..... GD

Yeah - it came out real nice. The lift went on in my driveway with no real problems - just the usual snags that always accompany this sort of thing. If we didn't take a 6 hour break on Saturday to hit a JY in Eugene, it would have been done that night, as it was we had it finished up and test driven on Sunday afternoon (didn't get up real early Sunday ). The plan is to caravan down to Medford this next Sunday (29th), and have a run with soobme, Adam, and SubaruJunkie (amongst others). Now that there's two of us in the Portland area that play hard with our soobs, we are toying with the idea of a club for up here. There's the HP up north, and the OOSC down south, but nothing for P-town..... GD

*UPDATE - 2/25/04* *These mounts failed in testing due to melting from exhaust temperatures. Please go here for the latest on this topic*

Ok - so I checked on how my mounts were holding up that I made. As shown in this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10424&highlight=DIY They have melted due to the exhaust temperatures - apparently the stuff I used which was reccomended on a honda site that I found was not capable of withstanding Subaru punishment. So I've formulated a new plan of action. I talked to a local plastics supply house, and they reccomended a place online where I would be able to buy something more in-line with the requirements I have. I have selected this product: http://www.smooth-on.com/urethanes.asp#780 It shouldn't melt this time at least, since one of the steps to proper cureing of the product is to heat it to 150 degrees for several hours before use. Apparently this improves it's characteristics.... For those of you who are waiting on mounts from me, there will be a slight delay while I get this new product in, and test it on my wagon. If this works out, then they also have a clear version of this product that can be tinted any color you want! Kinda cool. I will update all my old posts with links to this one, and to reflect that the older method did not work..... pictures and a test report will be on the way as soon as I get this new stuff, and the mounts have properly cured. GD

AWESOME! I got my goods this morning and am very pleased. Thanks to all who made this possible. The Brat shirt is especially cool, and everything fits quite well. I will do it again next time.... GD

Yeah - have to get my bumpers on too. I'll be down Sunday Morning with my convoy..... GD

That's a LOT of work. I hope you like to spend thousands of $$$ having some poor mechanic do it for you. Why not just start with an EA82 if that's what you want? Certainly would be cheaper. GD

I'll back Noah on that one - techically speaking lower octane fuels burn hotter and more completely. You can look this up in any automotive theory book. I also agree that the turbo engines should use the higher octane due to the boost levels which do not kick in till the turbo spools..... it may run fine at idle, but it won't when that boost kicks in. GD

Yes - very nice wires. For all you who are about to install yours - use some WD40 to get the wires through the boots..... GD

You'll have to disconnect the soft brake lines from the little holes in the stut's on the front. The pitching stopper will work as it is, you just have to bend it up a little, and move the adjustment nut's farther down a bit. All the wiring / cabling should be fine with no modifications. How are you doing the rear end? It's easy to put in some EA82 adjustable rear strut's instead of blocks... that will keep the mustache bar up where it is now, and basically gives you a suspension lift in the back. You just use a bit of angle iron (4" x 2") and drill a hole in the short side for the strut top bolt, and two in the long side about 1" down for the mounting bolts to the car. Just thought of another one - if your using the hitachi, then the stock airbox will interfere with the upper radiator hose.... we just cut the airbox off right before the heat riser flapper mechanism. No problem now. Weber's of course do not have this problem. Yet ANOTHER one - if you have the A/C that is on the outside of the alternator, you will have to move it, or remove it completely, as it will interfere with the frame rail. GD