GeneralDisorder

They are simple because they are not self adjusting - and thus, a pain in the butt. Swap out to rear discs - you'll be happy you did. GD

The Weber is easy, and good for probably another 25 HP along with a free flow exhaust. After that, it's time to open up the engine - higher cam being the biggest benifit along with decked heads. The EA71 (1600) pistons will also increase the compression slightly. Everything together, can yeild around 150 HP or so. The EA82 is a lot of work, and will only give you another 15 HP, and considerable complexity besides. Also has the disadvantage of requireing timing belt changes every 60k miles, and they have problems with cracking heads, and blowing head gaskets. Not a good choice for an off-roader. GD

Gen 2 brats were 82-87 EA81 Hatch was 80-89 (US only) GD

It's not just the lift blocks - there's the strut towers, and the steering linkage to think about too. Plus with 6", some reinforcing is generally put between the blocks.... With 6" you'll want to be running 31's. I'm running 28's with 3"...... Otherwise - sounds good. Try to get like an 88 or 89 if you get a hatch.... newer is always better. And 85+ will have the hydro engines. GD

Late 80's EA81 Hatch that's already a 4 speed 4WD. These have better departure angles, and the shortest wheel base of any of the EA81 series cars. Haveing almost no sheet metal behind the rear wheel is nice for deparure angle. The covered cargo is also nice... Second best, or possibly just as good, and a bit cooler, is a Gen 2 brat that's been bobbed - same deal here with the departure angle. Lift it, put in either an 81/82 4 speed D/R, or a 5 spd D/R, and drive it like you stole it..... Parts are plentiful, and the cars are very capable off-road when properly outfitted. Won't take much investent besides lift and tires to get going off-roading. Makeing it streetable with the big tires requires the 81/82 4 speed, or the 5 speed, but those are direct bolt-ups. GD

If it's a 1980, then it has the 1600 - that's got to go if you want big tires, so number 1 will be to pull the whole drivetrain (single range tranny is useless too), and put in at least an 1800, and a D/R. That in itself is no small task, as the engine cross-member has to be modified to fit the larger engine, or a cross-member from an 81 GL has to be found.... easier to modify yours. Biggest lift I've seen on a Gen 1 is 3" - contact Mudrat79 for details - he's lifted at least one of them. Anything higher than that has not been done to my knowledge... probably has, but I just haven't seen it. Well - without using a toyota frame anyway..... You should really start with a Gen 2 Brat. The Gen 1's aren't well suited to this sort of thing. You'll end up spending more money and time than if you just got a Gen 2 for a bit more money, and started with an 1800 D/R, and just added a lift. The Gen 1 is cool, but it's harder to lift, and the drivetrain isn't powerfull enough, or capable enough to put big tires under without major modifications. I'm not saying it can't be done, but the investment of time and money isn't worth it, when Gen 2's can be found on the cheap. And since the intention is to beat it up off-road anyway..... doing that to a Gen 1 is not looked upon highly. Even doing that to a Gen 2 isn't highly regarded, but it's done sometimes. GD

For one - if it's a 1980, it can't be D/R, as they didn't come out till 81. It could be an 81 with a late 80 build date...... Lifting a Gen 1 is difficult - the rear end is rather problematic as I understand it.... also, if it does turn out to be an 81 GL D/R, then that is a rather rare vehicle, and you should endevour to keep it stock, and restore it. No one has done the divorced transfer case on a Gen 1. While it could probably be done, all of the R&D would have to be done. It's not a simple copy operation, since the Gen 1 is quite different. GD

When you can sell them, they generally go for around $150 to $300 depending on condition, etc. For $300, I might be convinced to pull mine and all the sending units for it...... GD

I'll be up for something soon. Probably in March sometime. Looks like the 29th of this month I'm headed down to Medford to get my new bumpers and visit the southern OR crew. So in March I'll have to show off all my latest work on the wagon. Eric, Mike - a HP meet would be great! I'm in if the date doesn't overlap my ARMY obligations. GD

When I get back to the shop to finish up the 78, I'll take a look. Hard to tell - maybe I'll get lucky. GD

Yeah - you have to pull the whole thing. The tranny can't be dissasembled without pulling it first. Don't bother dissasembling it either - just get another. That's a headache you don't want to go through. GD

Yep - put it on straight. GD

My Brat does that sometimes - just slip the clutch and get it rolling a few feet. Should be able to get it to come out. The gears are worn, and are binding a bit inside the tranny. Don't force it too hard or you could break off the shift fork inside the tranny. GD

Your going to ruin a perfectly good turbo Brat with a freakin carb? Shame on you. Find another non turbo Brat to carve up with your crazy ideas. GD

Sure - it will fit. But the problem is not the dash. ALL of the sending units are different - even the one IN the gas tank. The wireing harness is completely different, and besides all that, the digi's from 83/84 are notoriously bad juju. They will blow up if you even look at them funny. Seriously - don't bother. GD

Yep - that's a cool peice. Dealer option. Don't see them everyday. Should fit any Gen 1 Brat I think. GD

Ok - from EA81 land, I would like you to stock: EA81 oil pump seal kit and gaskets EA81 Head gaskets EA81 oil pan gaskets EA81 valve cover gaskets EA81 intake manifold gaskets EA81 OEM PCV valves EA81 OEM oil filters EA81 4WD clutch parts EA81 4WD 4 speed shifter linkage bushings (the ones on the bottom of the shifter, and where it ataches to the shift rod of the tranny EA81 redline weber carb adaptors, and linkage kits A source for *cheap* EA81 wheel bearings, ball joints, and tie rod ends would be nice too..... I'll probably think of more, but that's a start. GD

rguyver did this too - both on his hatch, and on the Brat with the XT6 stuff..... try a search for posts by him, I'm sure you will turn it up. As I recall Miles had a small issue with alignment.... not sure if that had anything to do with it or not. GD

Try some of the online decal sites. Won't be "stock" but you can get some pretty cool looking "4x4" or "4 Wheel Drive" and what not for cheap aftermarket style.... GD

What does the noise sound like? Grinding - squeeling - etc? GD

It may still click and just have bad contacts in it, or it may not click and actually be frozen up, so my sugestion would be to find the flasher on someone else's car using Skip's technique...... that's of course only if it indeed does not click.... Hope you find it! GD

Yes actaully - Qman showed me that this was acceptable for main seals. A little silicone around the outer edge, and some grease around the inner edge to make it seal good, and keep it from drying out. GD

The shift linkage I was refering to is the one for the nissan transfer case. GD

No - they are different. Gen 1's are shorter. It's not appropriate to ask which is stronger - they are used for different purposes. DOJ's don't have as many degrees of freedom, thus can't be used where CV's can. GD

All junk - all of it. GD