GeneralDisorder

Best bet is to take a Brat cam, and have it ground for torque, and deck the heads to match. Then you will have a torque monster. The 2WD cam would explain why my lifted wagon (formerly 2WD) has mucho cojones on the freeway - that and it's '82 4 speed. That thing fly's down the strip. GD

I towed an 84 turbo with a front wheel dolly - course it had a blown tranny so who knows if it did any damag, but if you think about it, there's no reason you shouldn't be able to. When they are in 2WD, the rear end is being turned by the wheels rolling. Removing the driveshaft is a good idea, but you'll lose all your tranny fluid if you don't cork it somehow. GD

Ok - I can tell you that you can forget the ECU - plugged in or not it won't matter with a weber. Should run fine either way. Mine's not even in the car anymore. 2nd - I just can't see how the vac modulator could cause it to run incorrectly. Obviously it won't drive without it, but have you tried disconnecting it completely to see if the engine runs better. Sounds like maybe a vacuum leak to me. If it ran with the hitachi, then it should run with the weber - just need to get it tuned right, and make sure there's no vac leaks. GD

Apparently that's true. They are supposed to have more of a torque grind to them. CCR will put them in for you..... must be some difference I would think. GD

Most times a rebuilt axle comes with a nut anyway. Still up to you to find a cotter pin. Never have figured that out. Seems like they could toss in a cotter pin, and let ME decide if I needed a nut or not. (I've bunged a few castle nuts too - had to beat em off with a coal chisel). GD

GD

Ah crap! So now they are sending you up Friday? And I suppose that your all leaving Sat afternoon right? Darn - I'm busy Friday too. That sucks. Oh well - Tony is off the hook then. hehehe I can get him some coin and have him start on my rear bumper with swing out tire carrier..... yeah! GD

Some things we have covered a great many times. Here's a great thread about that, and if you try out the search function up at the top of the page, you'll find other threads that cover this procedure too. I'm sure everything you need is to be found in them somwhere. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2576&highlight=axle+removal GD

Hey Zap - you should watch the Moron eppisode of south park - you would love it. GD

Take it to a distributor shop and have it recurved. I'm sure they will get better results that you could ever get with removing springs and stuff. GD

He wasn't runnning in modified - he entered it in stock..... and since I was the judge - and there's no way in hell that car is stock...... aint a single thing on that car that he hasn't touched..... he didn't get sqat. His fault for entering in the wrong catagory. It is fast tho. Stupid paint job. Airbrushed "Baru" where the Subaru logo should be - what the hell is a "baru" anyway? Sure isn't what I was told to judge..... He's taken a lot of "artistic liberties" with the car. For one thing there was NEVER to my knowledge a dual carb EA81 imported to the states - just JDM stuff - blatantly NOT stock, and yet he insisted it was.... Guess I just didn't take to the guy - kindof anti-social he was.... Whatever. GD

Apparently - acording to the FSM, the 4WD's have a better torque curve. Curtesy of Skip I beileve for this info. Maybe he'll chime in.. GD

As I recall, Skip got that info from the FSM. Also - the 4WD ones (at least on the EA81's) are made by hitachi, and seem to be more tollerant of shaft play. My 2WD one would no longer function with half the shaft play that I have seen on perfectly functioning hitatchi's.... had to have it re-bushed. GD

Skip looked it up a while back, and the 4WD distys have a better power curve. The whole 2WD thing is a wives tale apparently. GD

Lift will help matters a LOT. But you will have linkage issues afterwards. Mudrat had to weld up parts of another 4WD shifter to mine in order to get it connected, and the gear selector sits at a funny angle (he had to torch it and bend it a bit) - gears aren't where you expect. 4th is where 2nd should be, and reverse is where 4th should be - whole thing is shifted to the left a bit. I'm just saying that you shouldn't expect it to just bolt everything together - there's going to be sticky problems that will require solving. You'll have to trade gas tanks, and complete exhaust systems. When you trade the tanks - make sure you swap the sending units too - keep the sending units with their respective gauges, or you could get unpredictable readings.... GD

Not bashing on YOU in particular basher - your correct in that this is the feeling one gets from the rest of the board. I've been telling people what it's really like for a while now, and no one listens - oh well. Just want him to have the CORRECT information. GD

ALL EA81T turbo wagons (Matt's included) are pushbutton 4WD. He was not putting the 5 speed into a 2WD chassis - MUCH easier. Also - the tunnel of an auto tranny car is completely different (and bigger) than a 2WD 5 speed. GD

Tunnel is WAY too small - so small a 4 speed won't even fit without spacers or beating. A 5 speed will be an even larger challenge since they are bigger than the 4 speed. I've done that swap ('84 5 speed 2WD to 4 speed D/R), and without a lift I don't see how you could get the 5 speed in there without actually cutting the tunnel, and welding in some new metal. People on the board love to go on about how easy this is when none of them have actually done it. I have done it, and I can tell you I will NEVER do it again. John (Mudrat79) has also done it, and agrees with me - he'll never do it again either. We discussed it at length. He was pretty amazed that I got my car together at all considering all the problems there were. If you want to buy a lift later it won't fit right, etc..... Much simpler to just find a 4WD car and start with that.... Your talking about Mass work, and probably many hours to get it all in there. What with the turbo motor swap and all. It can be done tho. The EA81T is intensly different than a regular EA81. The whole engine bay is laid out differently - the battery is on the other side. The wiring harness is vastly different due to all kinds of electronics that the carbed EA81 doesn't have. Not to mention the EA81T's are hard to get parts for, and are only making 95 HP. You can easily exceed that with a built EA81 and a weber.... GD

Dude - you got msn chat? You should join me there..... my address is in my profile.... GD

You got mail! And another Thug apparently. hehehe GD

Actually - most folks replace the stock bumper with something more sturdy, and use that..... GD

Well - the vacuum lines I don't know - I would have to see it to tell you anything there. Depends on where they go. Mileage on a clutch varies greatly with use, and who's driving it. Anywhere from 25,000 to 200,000 miles. They wear a lot faster driving in the city, or driving off-road. All freeway driving..... who knows how long it could last.... 300,000 - 400,000??!? Anything is possible. GD

Has it got a blue Oh-Sh!t strap? If so, and it's not spoken for......MINE! GD

Oh - and no on the bumper jack - you'll tear up the plastic ones but good that way. GD

It it's a spare - just grab any old steel 6 lug that is 6" or 7" - that's what I did. I got a whole tire + rim + mounting for $25 at a used tire shop. GD