GeneralDisorder

Agreed - met him personally, and have bought from him too. GD

Was there a STD wagon?? GD

It's just paint dude - can always be redone. GD

The only one with round headlights on a Gen 2 was the STD model hatchback. GD

Yeah - I'm also curious what that cost to have done? My Brat is a bit crooked (tailgate doesn't shut quite right). Looks similar to some of the damage on mine - maybe a lot of it could be pulled out like yours.... GD

If you do get it, then go for a rebuilt short block from CCR. Heard nothing but good things about their engines. The guys are right - I'm just cheap, and most of the time I get non-running soobs for free, or VERY cheap. I'm probably an exception tho. $300 is not bad if the rest of the car is nice. And has been pointed out, switching an engine is really no big deal. If you have been looking for a long time, and you like it, then grab it. It's not an automatic is it? Stay away from them if you can. 157k would be nearing the end of the line for an auto. 200k seems to be their magic number. More if they are cared for - but then you don't know it's history, so you have to assume the worst probably. GD

I emailed him - if he sends them to me, I'll have Junkie post them in the repair manual. GD

That's really cool. Had that same thing happen to a luitenant a while back. Someone forgot to bend the tab down on the castle washer for the gear reduction hub's stub axle. Whole axle fell out (with wheel attached) going down the freeway. That was not a happy day. GD

This the same mechanic friend that said you can't lift a soob? Your engine is running yes? Then it's salvageable most likely. Probably blew a headgasket or cracked a head is all. You would have to get one insanely hot to actually hurt the block. The melting point of aluminium BTW, is 1220.58 degrees. If your cooling system was working even a little bit, you could not possibly reach that temp I don't think. Of course if the engine were run without any cooling system at all - possibly. But the thing would seize before it melted I think. GD

WOOHOO! I'm positive I can rip the bumper off an XT! :cool: J/K - don't want to offend any XT people out there. Seriously tho - I'm with Qman - 4WD or AWD is the WHOLE POINT of this outing. If you don't have access to a car with one of these sytems (doesn't have to be a Subaru), and you can't find a ride with someone who does, then perhaps you should stay at home - or I guess you can leave the Volvo in the parking lot, and run - got some snow shoes? Hehe. I say we outright ban non-4WD and non-AWD vehicles from the off-road portion of this outing right now. What does everyone think about that? Anyone got a reason we shouldn't? GD

Go ahead and pull the radiator - it's just two bolts, and the hoses. And the electrical connector for your fan(s). Good time for a coolant flush and hose check if nothing else. EA81's are sooo easy to work on. GD

They can handle heat alright - it's the heads that can't. I've never heard of permanent damage by overheating other than cracking heads. GD

Cracked block? Never heard of that happening before. If the engine is really toast - $300 seems a bit high unless the rest is in superb condition. If you have to replace the engine, it's going to end up costing you a couple hundred more for a turbo short block that doesn't need rebuilding. For that price $500 total - you could get one that doesn't need anything. It's more likely the heads tho - which do crack easily on the Turbo's if you don't watch the temp. Still a pain, and more money. 87 Turbo wagons are by no means rare either. Offer him $175, then maybe $200. If he doesn't go for it - walk away and let him find another sucker. GD

Hrrmmm - true. I'll get some slack on the tow line, and take a running start! I bet the bumper gives before I move that tank. I think what Zap is trying to say is that we want to be absolved of all responsiblilty for what happens to a RWD tank with no ground clearance if it tries to follow us. But of course your welcome to try. And I will probably pull you out (if your not too annoying). Any damage I cause in the process tho.... well that's not my problem. Oh yeah - thanks again for saving my bacon with your AAA. I'm going to get AAA. Hopefully I can return the favor sometime. GD

Funny that you use "FE" - he might not know that this is the abbreviation for iron in chemistry (latin maybe???). Noah is right on tho - back when it was popular to use aluminium heads on cast iron blocks, head gaskets became a real issue. Another interesting thing about those engines. Since you have two dissimilar metals, touching the same body of liquid (coolant), you have a battery weather you like it or not. This is the reason for zinc in your anti-freeze. The zinc takes the errosion from the electrostatic discharge on your engine instead of it eating away the aluminium in your heads. This is why anti-freeze needs to be changed at least once every two years EVEN if it tests good with a hydrometer. The zinc will be gone, and there will be no protection against this type of corrosion. Just something VERY few people know in my experience. GD

The carb model really shouldn't be that slow. Your making 15 more HP than my Brat, which is about 20% more I would say. Your car weighs 20% more or maybe a little less. My Brat is not slow. Doesn't even have a weber on it yet. I mean - it's not a speed demon, but it does get up and move - even with a 4 speed. Your engine may need some tune up done on it. Vacuum advance units are notorious for getting cracks in the rubber, thus not working as well as they used to. Cost to rebuild is about $25 from the guys I linked to above. If you going to do it, you might as well have the disty shaft re-bushed at the same time - about $35 if you dissasemble it for them. GD

Hey - I'll gladly rip the bumper off the Volvo attempting to un-stick it. Hehehe. GD

You think that's simple? Get an EA81 car. hehe GD

EA81's ROCK! GD

Headgaskets are normally installed dry. No sealant is required or recomended. GD

Vacuum advance units do fail - they can be rebuilt. These guys can do it: http://www.philbingroup.com GD

Oh yes - that's right the carb fuel pumps are only 2 psi. So if you want to run a weber - get an aftermarket fuel pump that puts out about 5 psi. GD

Ebay or the dealership. GD

My feeling is that a built EA81 can match and even exceed the HP of the EA82 Turbo in stock form, so unless you intend to try and get more HP from the EA82T, A built EA81 without the trouble of the turbo or wiring and such would be the best choice. And if you do want to go turbo, then the trouble to put the EA82T in is nearly as much trouble as putting in the EJ22T. In fact - the EJ22T is smaller, and should fit better than the EA82T. Plus you get the AWD drivetrain - nice for a street only car. That's just my thought. Of course the EA82T would be cheaper than the EJ swap. So that could be a factor. GD

You can install a manual choke apparently - someone just mentioned that. Ether really isn't good for your engine. Fix the problem as soon as you can. GD