GeneralDisorder

Anyone got any other brand name sugestions? GD

We got a little mixed with rain - nothing stuck. I'm hoping to have some tomorrow morning. GD

Ha! - your right - I'll have to do 12 lugs. GD

What is "peaked-up" and "matched"? And what is K-40? I'm assuming wilson is a brand? GD

Yeah - toyota rims you don't have to grind out the center. I think *some* chevy rims you don't either. I think what I'm going to do in the future, is drill the rims and keep it a 4 lug, but drill two MORE holes in the rims, and mount fake lugs and nuts there, and to the 4 unused holes. This will give the appearance of a 10 lug, but retain the 4 lug mounting system. It will look mean, and still be interchangeable with the subaru wheels. I'll weld the fake ones from the backside and grind it flat for mounting..... GD

That's a good tip on the antenna mount - does it need to be ON the roof, or just over it? - like attached to a roof rack maybe.... GD

From my military experience, it's always good to be in the rig that has the radio - and if I'm gonna off-road this beast, I want to keep in touch. I don't want to spend a lot tho on something I'll only use once a month. What I'm looking for is sugestions on: 1. Cheap new CB's that you guys have found work well - ie: easy to use while driving, good range, good clarity. Or 2. Model numbers of CB's that I could find used on ebay for pretty cheap. And 3. Antenna's, and their placement on the rig so they don't get in the way while driving. Keep in mind my budget is tight - I want to do everything for $50 or less if possible... Anyone out there who has upgraded and wants to get rid of their old one? GD

If the ECU light comes on, it should store a code for it. Not sure if turning off the ignition will clear your codes or not - someone can answer that tho - free bump...... I can't have you lagging behind me if we go off-roading now can I? GD

courtesy of McBrat - from a post a long time ago, and on the old board. It's still around here somewhere, but it's so messed up from the conversion, it's nearly impossible to decipher (I fixed it up, so we can read it): At least for the 1982's from the Factory Service Manual: 1600 transmission: Gear--4 spd/5 spd 1------3.666/3.666 2------2.157/2.157 3------1.266/1.266 4------0.885/0.885 5----------0.725 Final 3.70 1800 transmission: Gear--4 spd----5 spd all-----5 spd wg-----4wd Brat----4wd Brat D/R 1------3.307----3.307--------3.307--------3.636--------3.636 2------1.950----1.950--------1.950--------1.950--------1.950 3------1.344----1.266--------1.344--------1.266--------1.266 4------0.942----0.885--------0.942--------0.885--------0.885 5---------------0.725--------0.725 Final 3.70 except Brat which was 3.899 front 3.90 rear Obviously, these aren't the numbers you are specifically looking for, but it shows that final drive IS NOT 1:1. It also shows how much variation there is - even on a single type of transmission from a single year...... GD

Your right - I can't find it either. Have to ask junkie where it went. Maybe it's HTML was too messed up for him to convert it. GD

The original pumps tend to be pretty weak after so many years I have found. Grab a carter pump: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRT%2DP4070 Pretty cheap, and extremely durable. Also - these will supply a weber much better than a stock pump that is old and weak. My subaru pump had lean-out issues when I turned left.... and it's delivery rate was pathetic - barely a trickle! GD

Snow is WAY fun in a soob - we can go places no one else can. That's why we like it. I want some too :boohoo: All you guys with snow suck! :moon: GD

You should push in the clutch, and shift - there is no speed limitation for 4-hi, but you shouldn't shift while turning. 4-lo is a different story - your not supposed to go over 35 or 40 MPH in 4-lo. People have done it, but the manual says not to. GD

Grab one from a JY - sounds like that one is pretty hosed.A bad dust boot will only contribute to future failure if it isn't already bad. GD

I couple inches could be done, but any more than that, and the axles won't have enough travel anymore. The axles are the main problem with lifting the suspension on soobs from what I understand. GD

Mine (as all of Mudrat's 3" lifted roo's) has 3" of suspension lift in the rear. Still a body lift up front tho. GD

Damn - maybe soon I'll have some here. GD

If it's 4WD, then yeah - $300 is probably alright. If it's 2WD, or an automatic, forget it. GD

Those fender flares as I recall are cut down from some 80's Toyota flares. To my knowledge, replacement panels are available only from Subaru (and most of the time not even then), or from you + a sawzall + a junk yard. Never heard anything about the VW thing - but then this isn't a VW forum, and why would you do that to a perfectly good XT-6 drivetrain - do the right thing, and put it in a Brat. GD

Yep - the EA81T's do use an EA82 style PS pump. Often wondered if I could mount that style to a regular EA81. I might try it sometime on my wagon. GD

There should not be any AC hoses going into the PS unit - that would be bad. GD

Always good to change fuel filters - by your description tho I wouldn't think that would cause your problem..... but that would be a cheap fix if it were your issue. GD

definately not - no way, no how. I think your confused - take another look. The power steering on the EA81 has no seperate resevior - it's part of the pump unit. GD

Tell your friend to come to the next West Coast Subaru Show - I'm sure some 6" and higher lifted stuff will show up. GD

It's possible that you could have an intermittant ECU failure. I've seen this on other cars - not specifically subaru's, but it could happen to anything really. One of the IC's in the ECU can get a crack in it that only causes a problem when it gets hot. Also check for loose ground connections, and corroded connections - especially around where the battery is located. These can cause intermittant random behaviour as you describe. I would think by your description that you have an electrical gremlin somewhere - since it runs fine when it's running. GD