odie

I'm guessing your block is warped, cracked or both...does the Subie have freeze plugs? I've never looked. Those are meant to save a block from freeze damamge. you need a new/rebuilt long block in my opinion. Freezing water had incredible force.

my brat has some switches and control stalk...but I think the rest has long been gutted... I was actually surprized it was even available...

interesting big asss bumper guard... so what's the cyclops eye thing? sounds like a Tucker...

I'm about to put a rebuilt autozone special in. I didn't want to mess with re-booting an old axle...and then likely having to do the other boot sometime in the near future either...2 boots cost close to a rebuilt AZ special with warranty... If you are really bummed about losing your OEM axle you can have mine for the core charge if you want. I'm not sure if it's worth it but I'll offer it if you or someone really, really wants an OEM axle to rebuild. the outter boot is still fine. The inner boot torn open a last week so the joint still has plenty of grease and should be uncontaminated...at the moment.

I thought it was pretty lame...just footage of him driving around and making some jokes. I was expecting a more objective analysis of the car and discussion of it's engineering, development, capabilities, history and such... just blah blah blah and watch me drive around some dirt roads... well, that's my take on it.

go a picture of that CD setup? I'm not having much luck finding a shaft style with aux inputs...Plye makes a cheapie with SD and memory card inputs for MP3 files...but strangely an analog tuner and no display for MP3s????

I bought a Scosche SU2020B kit...Brat was listed on the kit but it turns out only for the shaft style plate. There is a large DIN trim plate with a cuddy hole below in that kit...I may just cut a huge hole in my console and go that route...

check the fuse box lid or owners manual...it will tell you what each fuse should be. all the same would be nice but I don't think I've even see a car like that.

bad ju ju... never up-size a fuse...they has amp ratings for a reason...you're gonna melt something eventually... fix that crap now!!!

I was gonna use a wiring adapter for the stock harness...but there is regular speaker wire behind the dash so I think I'm gonna find no factory speaker wires in the door anymore... so there is a depth problem too??? that's not too big a deal as width... I'm gonna try to scrounge/source a traditional tape deck with an aux input. But really, I listen to radio mostly...but an old shaft radio is gonna be way low on power... Or just use the DIN trim panel...it looks like it would cover almost the entire console...and it has a cubby too... So strange though...the Japs embraced European DIN long before the US, my 1972 Z-car had DIN....why did Subaru hold out?

It seems I too have discovered that the might brat is no friendly to a standard DIN stereo... I got a Subaru install kit but the plate for the brat is just another stupid shaft style one... I guess I should have put a mounting sleeve over the center console first to see what I'm up against. I'd like to keep the ashtray (nice for coins and what have you) but it looks like I gotta do serious cutting to put anything in there. Kinda wish I kept an old shaft radio/tape deck to use. I really don't need a CD since the Brat rides too rough for a CD anyway. What's that blank knock out panel for BTW?

trust me, it wasn't living here for very long. It was out in the "Bluff" 1/4 mile or less to salt water...everything rots out there. Not sure where is came from but I was told from Houston area via Portland north of Corpus (not as salty as Flour Bluff). there are a few, very few "blister" areas I gotta take care of...but from what I've seen of other 1980's Subies...this one is proabably in the top 5% or better body wise. I don't even see evidence of a re-paint. Now the under the hood and interior is another story.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-ST207-Sealed-Ball-Bearing-/390448527922?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item5ae88bba32#ht_1327wt_1124 is this the bearing? or a correct one/type? different part number but a sealed 207 is the same as a sealed 6207, correct? Different manufactures tweek the numbers sometimes, like putting the S first or last (S207 or 207S), or add an extra number or letter up front or last "6"207... but they should all be the same spec, dia in & out, thickness, etc...just comes in a different box to be shipped to a different customer (lawn tractor place, or auto parts store, or other industrial customer)...but still all the same product, no?

this sounds like a good idea on wheel bearings...you can get more/better grease in there, plus you have a double seal on each side...would this be the ideal wheel bearing solution?

Ok, cool so it can be done...just pop the ball joint for clearance...mine are toast anyway, got new ones ordered. how tight a fit is the axle stub in the inner bearing race? If you put too much force removing/installing you will damage the bearing. I would think it would be a very close/slightly snug fitting but nothing more...On my VW the hub had to be pressed onto the inner bearing race with a support behind the bearing (very tight fit), but then again, those bearings are one time use also (they come apart on hub removal), but then again, the CV axle stub goes thru the hub and not the bearing race and can be pulled out by hand... On the bearings, I guess I just repack the grease and use them again, assuming they roll smoothly and have no noticable wear or play? Are the seals normally damaged during the R&R? I ordered new seals but if the rotor/caliper/hub stays on I can't change the outer seal anyway.

OK, I was kinda thinking I could remove the inner CV pin and swing the axle clear of the trans and then push/tap the shaft end thru the knuckle...basically not having to detach or unbolt the knuckle in anyway....guess not, or is there a "trick" to get enought clearance?

never heard of this but it sounds sensible. I'll check all my non-torn boots

My front inner right boot has a short 1" long tear...not sure how long it's been there but looks kinda fresh...My pitch stopper was missing the bushings so the same as missing. Now looking to either re-boot the axle or replace the whole thing. I can buy a boot for about $25 or the whole axle for about $60...unless the replacement stuff is truly crappy that might be the way to go.

ok, picture loaded don't always work...

The local deal ran my VIN and it comes up "invalid"...seems their database was purged of anything 80's or earlier... anyway, went to Lowes... all fixed for about $5

My Haynes manual says no can do, take entire steering knuckle off and have a shop do it...BS I say... 1. Is there anything special or just remove the axle nut and pull the axle out the back? 2. Are the wheel bearings and seals destroyed in the process or will the axle stub slide out of the hub/bearings with minimum effort? those are really the only 2 questions that I need resolve. Everything else below is just additional situational information. My wheel bearings seem fine (checked with stethescope while engine/wheel running in top gear on jack stands). My inner boot has a 1" long tear (very early it seems) so I'm debating re-boot or replace entie axle. As far as I can tell all the axles are original. The other 7 boots look fine (although one has zip ties so I'm guessing that's a re-boot since the other end has the normal metal bands) and grabbing each axle and yanking, pulling, twisting, etc all the joints check good (no noticable play or noise). from doing a search it seems re-boot is kinda popular due to the apparent longevity of the OEM axles. My options: 1. reboot inner joint $20ish? (I'm guessing I can maybe leave the outter axle installed???) 2. Replace entire axle, $55 if bearings are not ruined during removal, about $100 if bearings gotta be replaced. if I go option 2 then my OCD kicks in and I would want to do both sides at the same time ($110-200) Obviously I like option 1. quick & cheap...but I've never done a re-boot. No clue how tricky getting the CV apart and back together...especially while the other end is still in the steering knuckle. and no clue how old or how many miles are on the current axles and bearings...odometer shows 000,117 miles (don't know why) and it is not keeping up either (maybe 90% under)...odometer gear tooth missing? but then again, age and miles is not the issue, as long as the bearings & axles retain their grease (all the seal areas look dry) they should not wear out. It's loss of grease and dirt entering a leaking seal/boot that really makes them go bad.

OK, front and rear share a common ground wire on each side. That make sense. grounding thru the chassis would probably cause all kinda noise problems.

not within 150 miles...for some reason the local dealer can't pull up anything older than a Loyale in their database. For Brats and older GL & DL cars I gotta bring them a part number.

Are you grounding the speakers to the chassis? I've never seen that done. Always 2 conductor wire direct between the amp/head unit and speakers. but then again I've never owned a subaru...and mine has a lot of wiring gutted...

could this also be called the "engine stabilizer bushing" or "torque strut bushing"? I found a part # "A6726" but is kinda looks like a control arm bushing.