mcbrat

yeah, just pull the engine. makes all the other stuff you want to do easy.....

the old USRM article has some pics... http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/lsd-swap/lsdswap.html

and there's actually a bolt on piece! the rear upper spring mounts bolted right into one of the diff hanger holes. (rearward one I assume)

got some additional shots tonight... t-case/cradle and TT disconnect Rear axle steering front tire shots

in looking at the gear calcs, when going from a 23" tire to a 35" tire, with original 3.9 gearing, the new gears needed to make up for the tire size would be 5.935... with the new 4.10 axles, and the sammy high range reduction of 1.409:1, it takes me to equiv of 5.777 gears. and that's still running the soob in high range.

looking more at the one in the auction, the frame is narrowed in the rear for the wider tires.... could be a custom frame too...

FW was the manufacturer of the go karts... FunWheels I think... I found the brochure I have... here's one from FW, but not a Brat, but it is "lifted" http://cgi.ebay.com/VALVOLINE-MINI-TRUCK-GO-KART_W0QQitemZ180323540913QQcmdZViewItemQQptZGo_Karts?hash=item180323540913&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50 I bet a Brat body would fit right on this..... (for those that just have a body....)

Top Speed? yeah right even with the 27's I always drove it floored... really no idea what it will be if I can get the sammy speedo cable to work on my speedo, then I'll do some test with GPS, and make a new dial to register the right speed....

that's Chef Tim's "RuZilla" Hatch. I think it's still for sale too....

Chris sent some sneak peek pics.... Rear Coils Toyota IFS Steering Box and new frame rail Tire test fit to try and determine new wheel well edge....

good to hear..... lets see some pics of the Brat.....

Chris now has the Brat sitting on the coils. Used Stock TJ coils. Hope to get more pics this weekend...

there's a good pic here... http://www.indysworld.com/80s/brats/mags-acc/acc-gen1/gen1-acc.html what's an original worth to you ?

even if he finds it, there's no title, and no legal record of him "owning" it.

yeah, it's gone....

here's some pics from the MudWest 2 gathering.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.net/80s/mick/gallery/mw2pics/mw2pics.html

very nice!

sorry I was goofed up there.... there should be an EA81 stamp on top of the block right by the disty. since it's got the top mount starter, the only D/R trans that will fit it is the 1981 GL D/R all others had the side mount starter.... so he would just need to find a bell housing from a later ea81 ... privided of course that it still has the ea81 in it....

yeah, it's just a light bar. it was made out of exhaust pipe, and painted well.

no really.... his ea71 would have the top-center starter and the 81 D/R is the only one like that. to fit the later d/r he would need to make sure the engine is one of the later ea71 "fat case" blocks, and then find a mid 80's ea71 bell housing (side mount starter) to fit to his ea71. Kelly, where is the EA71 stamp on your engine. front by the dity, or rear by the oil fill tube....?

the shifter should be a straight line pull FWD | 4HI | 4LO

that's why my 86 brat stays in the garage all winter

if by chance, something bad happened, and the cylinders got filled with coolant, the engine won't turn at all, not even with a breaker bar. This just happened to my dad's car (non soob). they took the plugs out, and hit the starter, and it shot all the coolant out through the plug holes. as far as the PCV, I have both my lines vented to the airbox and t'd to the PCV valve. in the past I've run with one side vented to the airbox, and the other vented to a filter. your drivere side was basically a closed circuit without a vent. some engine can take it better than others... (if you don't hook the PCV stuff up correctly on a 350 sbc, it'll splooge oil all over the place )

do you have a pic of the engine as it sits with all the hoses hooked up? I blew oil out all sorts of places when I didn't have the PVC hooked up correctly... the tubes connecting the valve covers, and the pcv, also need to vent into the air box or intake... otherwise the pressure will blow oil out wherever it can. mine blew out the rear main seal and the disty and front crank seal.... this was on mountain grizzly with a weber on it....

you could get them up through the mid 80's actually... we could tell an age range from the bell housing and starter position (top center, or drivers side upper) also, are there any stickers on the valve covers signifying whether or not it has hydraulic lifters....? is the EA71 stamp on the front part of the block by the disty, or the rear of the block by the oil fill tube?