nipper

The lowly Flathead. The flathead's valves are carried on one side of the cylinder of the engine. The valve area is in an area on the underside of the head in a common pocket. This allows the (poppet) valvespen and close alternativly . Each valve works without any inkages or arms in a straight line from the cam. The head is L shaped and also is called a sidevalve engine. DUe to the valave design, "dropping" a valve was just a nussance, as no damage would occur. The velve train was extreemly simple and light which allows for better low end performance. The flat heads had a torque profile that feels just about the same as an electric vehical; Lots of pull at low RPM, runs out of grunt at higher RPMs. The downside was that by design the engine was choked. All gases had to make 90 degr bends to enter or exit the engine. Max compression ratio was 7:1 There was a hybrid called the F head. This had the intake over exhaust configuration (one overhead valve). From here i need to do a little cut and paste: Another concern is that because the exhaust follows a more complicated path to leave the engine, there is increased tendency for the engine to overheat under sustained heavy use. This is especially true if the exhaust is routed between the cylinders, as in the Ford flathead. It is possible to arrange the sidevalve engine layout so exhaust will be taken away through a valve and an exhaust tract located on the opposite side of the cylinder from the intake valve, in which case the layout is referred to as a T-block or T-head. American Le France famously powered their production with T-head engines from the 1920s to the 1950s. The Cleveland Motorcycle Company produced a four-cylinder in-line motorcycle engine using the T-head configuration in the 1920s. Very early engines were T heads. This requires two passages between the block and head, within the combustion chamber, and it loses some of the simplicity. The flathead design also greatly reduced the ability to overbore the engine for performance purposes. Since the piston, exhaust valve, and intake valve were all next to each other, the piston cylinder bore could only be slightly increased, if at all, or it would encroach upon the radii of the intake and exhaust valves, and also cause thin and weak cylinder walls There were V-8 Another concern is that because the exhaust follows a more complicated path to leave the engine, there is increased tendency for the engine to overheat under sustained heavy use. This is especially true if the exhaust is routed between the cylinders, as in the Ford flathead. It is possible to arrange the sidevalve engine layout so exhaust will be taken away through a valve and an exhaust tract located on the opposite side of the cylinder from the intake valve, in which case the layout is referred to as a T-block or T-head. American LaFrance famously powered their production fire engines with T-head engines from the 1920s to the 1950s. The Cleveland Motorcycle Company produced a four-cylinder in-line motorcycle engine using the T-head configuration in the 1920s. Very early Stutz engines were T heads. This requires two passages between the block and head, within the combustion chamber, and it loses some of the simplicity. The flathead design also greatly reduced the ability to overbore the engine for performance purposes. Since the piston, exhaust valve, and intake valve were all next to each other, the piston cylinder bore could only be slightly increased, if at all, or it would encroach upon the radii of the intake and exhaust valves, and also cause thin and weak cylinder walls. There were straight4 6 8, v8, v12 flatheads. Harley still uses this design. I just bring this up since this was the engine that powered the world for so many years it deserves to be remebered. This is where the term "breathing" started being used. These engines breathed like an asthmatic in a feather factory. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/flat.html Yes it is a mopar site but really does a godd job of showing things.

Did this noise just pop up after the t-belt?

Should i cover valve trains or are we good with that?

There is also the advantage to a straight engine where each journal has its own supporting bearing, which can make them real bears when it comes to torque. A very high engine rpm can actually stretch the connecting rod unless the rod is made for that application. Next lesson: Over square vs undersquare... Forgive me for cutting and pasting but that bi-po thing is making things hard . Oversquare engines are extremely common, including both Chevrolet and Ford small block V8s. Most Boxer (horizontally-opposed) engines (such as those built by Volkswagen, Porsche, and Subaru) feature oversquare designs since any increase in stroke length would result in twice the increase in overall engine size. This is particularly crucial in Subaru's front-engine layout, where the steering angle of the front wheels is limited largely by the size of the engine. Although oversquare engines have a reputation for being high-strung, low-torque machines, the Subaru EJ engine develops peak torque at speeds as low as 3200 RPM. Extreme examples of oversquare engine designs are found in Formula One race cars, whose rules tightly limit displacement and thereby require that power be achieved through high engine speeds. Stroke ratios of 2.5:1 are typical, with engines capable of 19,000 RPM. An engine is described as undersquare or long-stroke if its cylinders have a smaller bore (width, diameter) than its stroke (length of piston travel) - giving a ratio value of less than 1:1. At a given engine speed, a longer stroke increases engine friction (since the piston travels a greater distance per stroke) and increases stress on the crankshaft (due to the higher peak piston speed). The smaller bore also reduces the area available for valves in the cylinder head, requiring them to be smaller or fewer in number. Because these factors favor lower engine speeds, undersquare engines are most often tuned to develop peak torque at relatively low speeds. An undersquare engine will typically be more compact in the directions perpendicular to piston travel but larger in the direction parallel to piston travel. An engine can be "stroked" by replacing the crankshaft with a so-called "stroker" crankshaft and modifying the connecting rod(s), piston(s) or engine block to accommodate the increased piston travel. This increases the displacement and therefore the torque of the engine, but may reduce the peak speed at which it is safe to run.

People over think things. Take the timing belt off and spin the pump by hand using the stethascope. If it is makingnoise you should be able to hear something odd. The waterpump is always replaced with the timing belt at 105K. Do I dare ask if you replaced the seals and resealed the oil pump?

Get used hoses. If you have no mechanical knowledge have someone test the system for leaks. Subarus rarely have an AC hose leak, it is usally the O rings. As for the drip.... wash the engine especially under the car. DRive the car for a day with a peice of cardboard under it when parked over night. In the morning if you see drips, try to trace them to see where they are coming from. Examine the drops, are they sweet or oiley or plain water.

I suggest you do some m,ore checking. I said the crank journal throw is the determination of how much torque, limited by the mass of the crankshaft, pistons and other parts. the heavier the parts, the lower the max RPM they can handle. The size of the oil pan and crankase determines how big the crank throws can be due to space. An inline engine has lots of room for large throws, where as V engines or H engines do not. You are correct that the same cylinder will produce the same power no matter the number, but it is HOW that energy is transmitted that increases and decreases power. A crank throw is a simple leverage arm, and this arm determines how much torque is developed (keeping fuel mixture and cam timing all the same. It is about packaging as far as the shape of the engine, but the crank throw is limited by that same packaging, hence reducing torque given everything else the same except for crank throws. that is pure physics and not misinformation.

The longer the storke, the more leverage on the crank, the more torque but lower revs, the inverse is true. my hand is sore so if no one else chimes in i will tomorrow.

They actually get good ratings.

Lurking since i have the same issue. Does this help? http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=13%20inch%20tires&seax13%20=1

It actually is a crap shoot. Mine had a knock for 5 minutes then went away. 1000 miles later all hell broke loose in a rather exciting way.

Check the tranny mount Both my subarus idle as smooth as silk (dont kno9w about the Justy yet)

Original drive axles?

Oh thats easy http://www.drive.subaru.com/spr03_earlyhistory.htm http://bringatrailer.com/2010/12/15/clean-and-weird-1976-subaru-gf-sedan/ http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1913 http://vintage-original-ads.com/Pictures/displayimage.php?pid=72

repost please with a good url

Altenator. Bench test is useless and a waste of everyones time. You are missing the proper test actually. start the car and rev it to 1800RPM or more. Turn EVERYTHING on, and i do mean everything. Take the voltage reading. Don't by the cheapest rebuild you can find, you will regret it.

4WD justies live in the pacific northwest. You have to be anal about maintanence and it has a few weak spots. The CVT got a bad rap as it was drivers who killed it. A 4wd with a cvt would be so sweet. They did come in four doors and are quick for thier class.

What did they call a tuneup?

Dont know yet. He spent a lot of time parked and i am making up for those sins. It is the CVT so it should push 38/40 No AC but a little car with plenty of air flow.

The justy will never see road salt if i can help it. There is a log list of what has been done to him, but i may pay someone for the last few mechanical steps.

Well it looks like my investment may pay off. 1989 Justy 30K Whats left Finish cleaning up my wiring (alarm and electric locks and cruise). i may not get it all done before it goes on the road, but may have no choo=ice) Set up the carb (i hate OBDI). It is almost done (plug in green connectors and disconnect everything) 4 new tires Replace timing belt and leaking seal Have an exhaust system built Thermostat Maybe a catalytic converter (I dont know if the early ones suffer from sitting) a real Stereo.\ Some kind of trailer hitch with a 3rd class receiver for my bike rack. Gas starts heading towards 4.50 a gallon Blu will have to come off the road until it drops again.

#1 reason, the trailer adapter. #2 is a bad bulb that has shorted out and is backfeeding.

Yes if you overheat the engine you can damage the oil depending how long you baked the engine. 2.5's have the problem vs 2.2.

If you removed the TC with the engine, you may have damaged the input shaft seal. Do a stall test, I think you may have messed something up. Put the car in drive while running. Stand on the brake pedal. Give the car throttle. The engine rpm reached should be shy of 3000 RPM. Stall Test Results Higher than normal RPM indicates one or more of the following: • Slippage of the forward clutch • O.W.C. not holding • Low/Reverse brake slipping • Overall low line pressure Lower than normal RPM indicates one or more of the following: • Incorrect throttle adjustment • Poor engine operation • Torque converter stator slippage will cause higher RPM. This sounds like the converter is not in properly. http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/torque_converters_explained.asp