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Everything posted by nipper
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Go with OE wires. Replace the PCV valve. It is winter, thats about right. Last night here in NY it was 14 degrees with a 40 mph winf. On the scan gauge I could watch the mpg go down to 14 when the wind hit Blu. I get about 20 in bitter cold, as low as 16 if it is all short trips (1 mile or less). You may be @ 23, but if it was anything else it would be 16. nipper
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I am suspicous of a few things. They say "transfer case" which subaru doesnt have. I would want more clairifcation on CVT coverage. I see no TCU coverage. Engine no ruel injectors mentioned nor exhaust system. There really inst an axle housing on a sooby, just a diff housing in the rear. Also would be nice to know who underwrites it and the deductable if any. nipper
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Actually subaru t-stat and cooling design is not funky. It is only funky when you put it in a car it was not designed for (like a vanagon). You have what may be a bad head gasket, but first I want you to replace the radiator cap and see if that clears it up. Next I would replace the thermostat with one from OE only. Aftermarket chokes the coolant flow. you can be getting air in the systme from a faulty radiator cap, or from a faulth head gasket. Let me know what happens. nipper
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Like an O2 bong, or an exhaust pipe? I am aware of the physics behind the washer http://physics.kenyon.edu/EarlyApparatus/Thermodynamics/sGravesandes_Apparatus/sGravesandes_Apparatus.html But here the O2 sensor and the SS exhaust probably have the same expansion properties. Heating a nut usually works better then heating a bolt mounted into something. In order to get the O2 sensor hot enough to move, if going that route, I would STRONGLY suggest a flame as oppsed to a hot exhaust pipe.
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Do it cold., but do as he says. The same reason you dont change plugs hot is the same reson you dont do this hot. Look at a hole in a bsquare block. Now imagin the block expnading 1/8 of an inch (exagerated to make it easy to visualize). The hole will get smaller. Now put somthing in that hole and heat it all up. The hole will get smaller and thing in it will expand.
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Overpowered? I have never heard that and subaru used in the same sentence anywhere. If the turbo was still available I would suggest that. Now with the new CVT and mutigear boxes with the 6 I would suggest a real testdrive (not just around the block). Don't be afraid to manually downshift. Dont be afraid to use D3 (if it is equipped) or sport mode and see if it fits your needs. My pet peeve has always been dealers that only allow a 2-5 minute test drive when your going to spend 20-30K out of your wallet. nipper
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Get yourslef a vacume gauage and tell us exactly what it does. This will give us some insight as to what is going on. My first guess would be a completly clogged catalytic converter or exhaust system. Does it stall or seem like it is choking for air. Can you feel exhaust coming out of the tail pipe? Check for a potato in the tailpipe, maybe you pissed someone off.
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Headgaskets should be OE, everything else should be a name brand. Felpro has lets say 20 engineers to cover every gasket they make for every car ( I worked for a major auto parts mfg and we only had 5 for our entire product line). Subaru being OE will either asign an engineer or a group of engineers to evaluate a high cost part to see why it is failing. Aftermarket will not, since they usually see engines at the end of thier lives. OE will constantly evaluate untill they solve the problem. Aftermarket will sit on the stock. Once a problem is solved, OE will put out a notice that all A Hg's are now superceeded by Revision H HG. They will tell all dealers to remove the old design and return them or destroy them. An aftermarket supplier will rarely if ever do that, and whoever has them on thier shelves will run down the inventory untill they have to order H. that may mean going through A B C D etc. Thats why you buy OE. Also the deeper in the engine and the nore critical the part, thje more risky and foolish it is to rely on a cheap part. nipper