nipper

I actually took a chance and bought tie rods for cheap on ebay (inners and outers). They are 1 year old now and holding up. They also were a brand name part, and cheap! nipper

Check everything else first, as "adjusting" the lash usually makes far more issues then you are trying to cure. I've never heard of a sooby needing this done. Usually the universal joint is bad, or tie rod ends. nipper

The reasons car use oil is that it is vaporized at high cylinder temps. It is sprayed on the bottom of the pistons to cool them. Running propane ( I forget the mechanics) it seems your pistons arent getting as hot as they would with gas, so the oil never really vaporizes. Just be happy nipper

What are "these" ? nipper

On the inner the two biggest fights are the boot and the #$#%$@#%^$%^$%$@#^@ locking tab. The tierod itself once you get on it comes right off. nipper

Its been covered on other baords. they just hook up the diagnostive equipment and scan the system for faults. nipper

At the very least you should have lapped the valves. Get a price for having the heads checked, otherwise you may be buying a third head gasket. nipper

Get that fixed. Then find a shop you trust and tell them to gover the front end of the car and see if anything else is going to need replacing. The shop did you a favor by finding it. Cheap oil changes serve two purposes (which is why i am so against driv in oil change places). The primary is to get the car in on the lift twice a year or more for inspection, the second is that same and to make the shop money. There is nothing wrong with the second, just you have to use your brain. If the shop says you have an oil leak and it costs much bucks to fix, you live with it and now know to check your oil regularly (which of course you do anyway). If they say you need a saftey item, stop and thinkg if you had any wierdness in the car, and look at the mileage. If the car has voer 1XXXXX miles odds are you need it. Especially if it keeps the wheels on the car or makes the car stop. Other things can be put off till later. nipper

Yes.

I had two of them, but Blu also had over 200,000 miles on him. nipper

PS if your car has over 100K on it or higher, the more likely you will need tie rod ends and ball joints, as they do wear out with time. Both are saftey items. nipper

http://www.2carpros.com/how_does_it_work/steering.htm better link nipper

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering2.htm A tie rod end is a vital component to the steering. What the mean but it being bad is that it is worn enough to have unexceptable play in the joint. This results in the car drifiting when trying to go straight. The tire following grooves in the pavement. Vibration in the front end, and if it gets really bad a to cmplete loss of control when it snaps (been there but at low speed). Saftey insepctions are vital, and on state inspectiosn there arent any fluff. They have listed what the minimal of what is required to be safe (though an argument can be made for aftermarket or factory fog lights). Have them show you the play, but it is a saftey item and may not last an hour, or may last a year, but is your life or someone elses actually worth that risk? nipper

I just count the 1/2 rotations of the tie rod as it unscrews. It can actually be theraputic to do, especially if you really have to beat the snot out of it to get it off. Or you can do it the easy way and get tie rod press. nipper

Its not just a Baja issue. It is the hedalight socket usually. It is making a poor connection. Inspect it closely, as they do tend to work loose with time, and then they start to overheat, then they melt. nipper

At the time when the car was made, no one was really sure how long the airbag system would remain functioning, hence the ten year window. It has been shown that cars with the very first airbags in 1980 was still functional as of today, so no one is really worried about it anymore. nipper

How many miles on this car? and welcome nipper

There is an easier way, spray water or methanol on the intercooler to help cool it down. nipper

Seized cam, thrown rod, but im betting a cam and something spectactularly broken. nipper

ALso a turbo is "free" horsepower so to speak. Using an air to air intercooler is fairly free too (not including the hardware). Using the AC will cost you 5 HP ish, and there most likely is not enough flow through an evaporator to cool the air sufficently as flow gets higher. The other choice is to wrap the intake in refrig lines, which can cause icing. But you know, if you got spare material, a few beers, time on your hands....... nipper

I just dont want someone to go for the expensive stuff when the cheap generic stuff will do most the time. nipper

Sooby's that are OBDII need an OE O2 sensor for the front one. On an OBDI I havent heard any complaints about using universal ones, just use a brand name.

Well a failed sooby HG wont lead to overheating immediatly, but a cooling system failure (broken hose no coolant) will lead to failed HG on almost any aluminum cylinder head engine. nipper

Youll see it on an OBDII readout, but yes the gauges are numb in the normal range, otherwise they will get alot of people saying thier temp gauges are moving all over the place. And since the majority of people are stupid, it ties up shops (80's gauges were very reactive, and this is the lesson that OE's learned... that customers can be idiots) As you start getting out of the normal range they are more accurate. nipper

heheh knock senser can be from anywhere