nipper

Well if you are due for a new timing belt go ahead. But a failed water pump or a clogged radiator would cause an over heat condition, not to seem to act too cool. You should check the egnine temp sensor to see if it is reading properly. The ECU may be getting wrong data.

oops sorry I forgot this is an obdI. What is the outdoor temp? nipper

Is your CEL on? Can you see fluid flowing with the cap off? Do you have a code reader so we can see what temp the ECU is seeing? How do you know the t-stat is ok? Just for the heck of it replace the radiator cap. nipper

You do realize that hot water goes into the bottom of the radiator and cooler water comes out the top? And that cooler can seem downright cold depending upon the air temp going through that radiator. I'm with GD on this one, what is the problem? If it is cold enough outside, Blu's T-stat wont open up (but engine temp gauge is normal), but i will have plenty of heat. The heatercore is just a small radiator. nipper

Clogged radiator?

The reasons why Alts go bad the first time are usually the voltage regulator or rectifier. I would replace the brushes too if you are so inclined to rebuilding it. They arent hard to rebuild. nipper

Can you drive down to the states and buy a set? nipper

You asked about an interchange, not a rebuild. I have rebuilt them. I have stopped since sometimes costs more to rebuild them then what one can or is willing to buy one for. Why not call a subaru parts supplier and ask them? But since the voltage regulator is differnt I would say they may not be good matches. This is for a 2000 Legacy: Voltage regulator, legacy, 2.5l 00-04 $179.35 $129.13 Bearings, front, legacy 95-00 $20.68 $14.89 Rectifier, legacy 00-03 $115.51 $83.17 Bearings, rear, legacy 95-04 $38.92 $28.02 Brushes, legacy 00-04 $13.22 $9.5

Where did the waterpump come from? nipper

http://www.autoblog.com/gallery/wards-10-best-engines-of-2010/#9 :banana:

Just for gigles, check the charcoal canister and see if it feels heavy. It may have sucked up gas and that can cause problems. Just a longshot but a cheap and easy thing to check. nipper

I didnt even know you had a legacy! nipper

Lets attack the stalling issue first. My 97 will do this starting issue on ocassion. I am 98% sure with Blu its a dying crank position sensor. There arent many things that will make a no start condition on a subaru (crank sensor engine coolant sensor). The stalling I would think may be a coolant temp sensor. These will not always throw codes. Since these are intermittent issues, throwing parts at these would not be a bad thing (as they arent terribily expensive used). nipper

How old is the waterpump? If the coolant was truly frozen (at the number your speaking of it would just be slush) then you may have bigger problems. I am thinking that your waterpump is just old and tired and the bearing may have seized. nipper

How about just a tired PS belt? If the fluid was "frozen" it would not thaw out for quite some time. This sounds more like a bad belt. nipper

Aftermarket is junk. Use OE nipper

There is no rhyme or reason to who has them and who doesnt. Personally i think some of them get "lost" at the dealerships. Alot of them get lost in deep snow or wheelin. nipper

We dont like you anymore Unless your talking about a 360 then just go away hehehehe

Just have no children, mother in laws, or ministers within earshot when you do it. There are some very good how to's on here, just search for them. nipper

Pictures

What exactly do you mean by you can't get the caliper off. The pins are cheap enough to replace if they are really bad. nipper

If it changes with the angle of the steering wheel, it is most likely the universal joint in the steering shaft. nipper

WOW that must be a record, it sure as heck aint the original transmission. Cracked flex plate or not, the fact that it will move only at higher rpm means the tranny is fried. A common conversion is to change the tranny and rear diff with one from a legacy. nipper

Well we wont even mnetion my 235.00 from autozone. nipper

Subaru rebuilt. A proper rebuild (bearings brushes all electronics and everything tested and cleaned). Other rebuilds may just be the bearings, or the diod trio, or just the regulator. nipper