nipper

I'm not going to state the obvcious, but lets anyway Does it have fluid? Does it work in any of the manual selections did it give any wanring signs? is the fluid burnt? What happens when you power brake the brat, does the tach needle stop, or does it act like its in neutral. nipper

Make sure all the tires match. Drive the car in a tight circle. The car should be able to make tight circles under its own power at idle, or with a wee bit more fuel if its a manual. It should do it in a smooth motion. If it doesnt walk away, unless its a steal of a price. At 150,000 miles or so dont be scared off by oil leaks, as they are all repareable. The 2.2L needs a new timing belt every 60,000 miles. Plan on doing the timing belt, water pump, cam seals, main seal, and re sealong the oil pump, along with the timing belt idlers. This may sound a bit intimidating, but if you do this you wont have to do it for 120,000 miles (every other timing belt change). good luck. nipper

i am just surprised the rear seats fit too nipper

If your going to own a car, you sometimes need to put money into it. The cam angle sensor actually runs the car. Wiggling it, eventually it will break. The 91 is an OBD1, where as the 95 is an OBD. Tats sort of like putting pentium 3 chip in a an old dos machine. It aint going to happen, and it isnt going to work, period. If you have no cats, the o2 sensors will always read too rich, even if they are new. I am assuming holed out means gutted. It doesnt matter if the car has new o2 sensors or not. Since you don't really seem to care what the CEL is telling you, why dont you just remove the bulb and be on your way. O2 sensors are the heart of the fuel injection system. Without them the car runs in open loop, using pre defined parameters to make the car run. This cuts performance and gas mileage. With functioining O2 senros the car goes into closed loop, and then adjusts things for peak performance. Engines can be swaped, they are only bolt patterns that limit this, unlike emission controls,wiring and sensors. nipper

noooooooooooo Limited slip differntails had either cone clutches or clutch packs in them. On AWD http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/traction/tech_traction_4wd_2.htm On Limited Slip Differentials http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm http://www.houseofthud.com/differentials.htm

10,231 nipper

Viscous couplings take a little while to get going, and they dont spin. They just transmit as much force as is required, unless your really really stuck. The nice old LSDS with clutches worked oposit the VC. The mechanical LSD was always transmitting power to both wheels, untill the clutches were overrun by the mass of the car with differnt speed of the wheels. The VC is free wheeling untill there is slip. The slip is required to heat up the fluid to get the VC to engage. If its really cold outside, its possible to take longer for the coupling to heat up then it would normally if the car has been parked. nipper

Use the search luke, use the search............. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84118&highlight=seat+belt nipper

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83132&highlight=antilock+brakes Antilock Brakes works on the search. nipper

Why must you rain on my parade nipper

Have we tried the coil pack test, i dont remeber. With the car running, in the dark (a full moon is best), spray t with water out of a mister, and see if you see any stray sparks. nipper

As long as the ABS light is off its functioning. ABS wont search, but try Anti-lock Brakes. Search wont do three letters, and i dont know if it will do a wild card (*). (damnit it posted before i was done). You probabaly have a wheel speed sensor either getting fouled by snow and ice, or you have a sensor starting to go bad. They should be perfect cylinders at the tip. Once they start to erode, they dont work anymore. nipper

Untill the Duty C Solenoid burns up. No real downsides, except you will realize how much work the AWD actually does. The front wheels will be easy to break loose. can drive it like that for a week, for a few years. It differs on each car. nipper

Get yourslef a haynes manual. you can trace back the fuel pump wiring much easier that way. Good luck im going to bow out of this one. nipper

Drive in FWD mode, it makes the car more stable to drive. you dont have a duty C problem, you have a clutchpack problem. you can either save money a- for a used tranny, or b - rebuild the clutch pack. i dont remeber, but i am assuming all your tires match and are equally worn. nipper

slow down, you are doing many things that do not make sense. Put back the original ECU. They rarely go bad. You only test one thing at a time otherwise you will never get it started. First thing first, check to see if you have voltage at the fuel pump at the back of the car. No spark, you need to use an analog meter to test for a AC heartbeat at the cam and crank postion sensors, especially the cam. This would keep you from having spark. how are you testing for spark? Check the engine temp sensor also. I would also do a compression test. nipper

You wont be the last one i am sure nipper

I think sometimes that takes up 1/4 the tool box nipper

Torque bind needs to be investigated, as very little driving is straight. It doesnt magically go away in slick weather. what happens is that the wheels can more easily brake loose at the wrong time, and then if your really unlucky, you get to be close up and personal with another object. It will just get worse with time. If the cold weather bought on these synptons, all the more reason to change the fluid to see if it goes away. It means that your tranny fluid is very old and gummy. Have you tried the FWD fuse holder trick to see if it goes away? nipper

Well i see my work here is done Yes its TB. Change the fluid first to see if it can help, but the older and higher the mileage on the car, the more likely it is to be a tired clutch pack. Try the lucas additive that people like. That may free it up, someone will tell you exaclty which one. Its like chicken soup, it cant hurt. Its not only the duty C that can make it happen, but it can also be old tired sticky clutches. nipper

showoff nipper

HAHAHA Its an innie, not an outie. the blue bottle only works (sort of) with outies. nipper

Blocking off ports is easy, just do what Waw said. nipper

Its the begining of the HG. They are hard to diagnose when it first happens, but there is only one thing that will spray water out of the overflow, and make you loose heat at the same time. nipper

Do you want your car around for a long time? Differntail lubricant is needed If you want to keep the car forever, or pile on the miles. Fuel system cleaner, if your not running rough, skip it. Tranny should be done every 3/36000 miles. Subaru doesnt have a spec for newer ones, but thats a very expensive piece of equipment to not change fluid on. Radiator should be 3/36 also. It keeps the heater core and radiator free from clogs. It also has a lubricant that keeps the water pump happy, whic is very important in a timing chain car. One can replace a wtaerpump with a timing belt car at timing belt changes. Since you have a chain, you dont have that convience. nipper