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Everything posted by nipper
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Its bit more complicated then that. Subaru when in limp mode limits the car to 50 mph (4500 rpm), and disables the lockup torque converter. I also think it wont go into 4th gear, but ill have to check. The car also becomes gutless. This will occure with a loss of both vss sensors, if one VSS reads dramaticlly different then the other (like a broken axle). The ignition timing is modified to prevent engine damage. The failsafe mode for the AWD is full 50/50 split when there is a duty c failure. The limp home mode can be forced by driving with the test connectors under the dash hooked up (the infamous green connnectors). These connnectors are used for flashing the ECU. I'll read through the manuals and see what i can find. Soobys dont go in this mode often, so i cant recall exaclty what they do aside from the RPM cut and road speed.
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Bad experience, need help
nipper replied to bastomatic's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
But even that breaks down with time. nipper -
Ditto. nipper
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Show me a good kit and ill be a path to thier door. I have been looking, so I am not picking on anyone, just my professional experience has yet to convince me that they are any good in all weather conditions. nipper
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guilt ridden
nipper replied to LetItSnow's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
I think once a car hits 100,000 miles it is no longer a thing, but an member of the family. It develops quirks and a personailty. Even if you buy a used car with that many miles, you notice it has quirks that make it unique. So to fix this, start driving the newer car ......... a lot nipper -
Any kit can look good in dry conditions, have you seen them in the rain. I've yet to see any kit that is decent in the rain (and alot of aftermarket bulbs fail in this area too, like anything blue). Also depending upon how sharp your state inspectors are, technically they are illegal nipper
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Not too many since when most replace thier head gaskets it cures the problem. Also with a clogged radiator you would pass the bubble and exhaust gas test. Another thing people need to do is physically inspect the radiator. The engine side may look fine, but the ac condenser side may have lost all its fins. They need to physically unbolt the radiator and push it bac, then inspect it with a flashlight. This is especially true if the vehical is over 12 years old. nipper
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You cant just throw them in any old lense/headlamp. The reflectors are designed to properly scatter the loght with the proper pattern. If you dont have a preperly engineered reflector, they are just a waste of money. You are better off getting a set of aftermarket accessory lights. nipper
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Bad experience, need help
nipper replied to bastomatic's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I had the same symptons ages ago. Mine ran poorly, did the stall thing for a while, drove me nuts. I was in the same boat with mine, The sensor failed. The mechanic looked at it (why do cars always break donw on me in january) and said trhe same thing. Failed sensor, worn distrubutor. COils can fail in odd ways, but its usually an intermitenet thing, like when you only make turns, or once the coil warms up. It can make you bonkers. Moral of the story ... buy an older car, have an AAA membership for towing . goodluck -
Go to www.endwrench.com in the archives and read the engine section. Why is this engine being rebuilt? Did it have piston slap before? if it did, there is a fix for that, replacing two pistons (I think its the passenger side, don't remember). rear seperator plate needs to be replaced with the metal one. A valve job, just like if it blew a HG. Subaru Head Gaskets. Subaru thermostat and new radiator cap. Subaru wires Check the specs on the oil pump. If the housing is good, I would look into new gears. Never makes sense to build a new engine with an ancient oil pump. nipper
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Bad experience, need help
nipper replied to bastomatic's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The new disty could be the old one is worn. We really cant tell over the net. None of this you can't do yourself. First check is to see if the distrubutor is turning when the engine cranks. I would change the timing belt just because you dont know when it was done last. Even with a bad fuel pressure regulator, the car should at least idle. My gut feeling is that the sesnor inside the distrubutor failed (they can do that without warning). When you go to check that, you usually discover the distrubutor shaft is worn. There is probably nothing wrong with the fuel pressure regulator. I would see if the sensor is working, and just replace that. If the car was running fine before that, it should run fine after that. But do keep an eye open for a replacement disrubutor. nipper -
some people should not be allowed near a tool box. nipper