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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. Then the front pump is wiped out. Do not pass go, dont try anything else. Replace tranny. nipper
  2. In the future, after going through a deep puddle, do not just park the car. You need to do a lot of starts from a dead stop to heat up the clutch and dry it off. nipper
  3. CLutch pack. If it was the solenoid, the FWD fuse would have no affect. YOu can be getting a DUty code because the valve is sticking, or not responding as it should do to an internal issues. Either way, (if this was a newer car) I would suggest a new solenoid and clutch pack. On a tranny this old a used tranny may be a better choice. How many miles on it? You can try the lucas additive as a last ditch attempt for a easy repair. nipper
  4. Its been a while since i have seen one of these, but what I would look at is things that are common to both cylinders. That can be a HG, the cylinder head, or something with the cam. nipper
  5. The pressure plate pushes against the slave cylinder, which in turn pushes the master cylinder, and pushes up the clutch pedal. It sounds like the master cylinder is the problem, but i would still replace the two cylinders. nipper
  6. You can try pulling a LIGHT vaccum on the system, then fill the cooling system. nipper
  7. Could be both. Generally since they both see the same conditions, both should be replaced at the same time to be done with it. Just have someone push down on the pedal and look at the slave cylinder. If it moves the clutch fork is to blame, if it doesnt its the hydraulics. nipper
  8. There should be bolt holes in the rotors to aid in removal. Most the time i have had one fall off and the other needing minor encouragement. nipper
  9. If the tranny is full, you wil get circullation inside the tranny. It will take 4 drain and fills to get everything out. Sadly the oil may have damaged the clutches. The clutches are not desighned to hold up to oil in any large amounts. If the linkage moves preoperly, and you get no motion in any gear, the tranny may be dead. nipper
  10. Wht he said about the filament. Remove one light at a time and see when the problem disapears. nipper
  11. HUH? Power steering always works as long as the enigne is running, same thing with electric power steering. There are two kinds of electric power steering, one is where a electric motor runs the pump on demand, and the 2nd generation (and more exp) is where the electric steeping motor is part of the steering rack. The 2nd one tends to make the steering wheel feel numb. If you want to feel what power steering feels like without the car running, shut the car off and try to turn the wheel. nipper
  12. I know if there is too great a differnce between the front and rear speed sensors for too long, the TCU thinks that something is broken and will shut down the AWD. Also I dont know how this will affect the spedo, as the two VSS circuits can independently operate the spedo. Just something to think about nipper
  13. So you want to collect on the fire/theft part of your car insurance. If your going to do that, you need high temp insulation tape, then put the heat sheilds back on over that (which some people have done on here. nipper
  14. It's rear, and they are hard to find. There are front limited slips, but they are torsen units. Now with variable traction control dohickeys, even the torsen diff is living on borrowed time (as it is super expensive to make). It should bolt right up. Sooby doesnt change the bones of the car too much. nipper
  15. NO ti wont turn into that. If you look back youll see all along that i have said this is the proper way of doing it so nyahnyahnyahnyah and stop teasing me :-p nipper
  16. Front seal if it is leaking bad enough can get an oil mist sprayed on the exhaust system ( I speak from experience) and give you a choking smoke inside the car when stopped. nipper
  17. Then scoobymods was wrong, as they said the harness wasnt there. Subaru is a small auto mfg. Since the late 1980's most auto mfgs have one harness for one model car. That means all the wiring is there (except for sub harnesses) for every accessory possible. The auto tranny harness is probably a sub harness and not in the manual tranny car. nipper
  18. Its easy to replace. I bet you have a bustedicated inhibitor switch, and it is quite possible the car isnt sure what gear it is in. If they changed all the fluid (over 9 qts, I forget how much) then they did a flush. nipper
  19. You may not be able to do what you want. You need to further investigate and confirm you have a US transmission. European, Austrailian SVX's have a center diff along with a clutch pack. As far as adjusintg power to the rear (nipper disclaimer here, i dont aprove of it) its going to be either 50/50 or TCU controlled. The Duty C is normally pulsed on/off to control the amount of torque split. The only way you can make it adjustable (and this i would aprove of myself 100% if someone can do it) is to figure out the pulses the TCU sends the clutch pack. Then you need a pulse generator to reproduce that signal on demand. I should have gotten an electronics degree instead of mechanical :-\ nipper
  20. D1 and reverse are full 50/50 split. Thats more for engine braking (I am guessing). Would be nice if it was D2 too, but acording to endwrench its not. nipper
  21. Honda has a "computerized diff" and guess what. It is still a set of gears with computer controlled clutch pack. Electric vehicals are expensive enough, cost is almost as much an issue as weight, so the diff as we know it will be around for quite some time. As far as power steering, lots of luck. Too many spoiled drivers out there, that they need power assist even in the smallest cars. nipper
  22. 3 years 36000 miles you should change the fluid. Tired fluid can cause hard shifiting. Check the fluid level, and if it has never been changed, change it. Cold trannies will shift late, been that way since the early 1990's. Subarus are hard shifters at times. Blu just started shifing really hard, and i noticed its been 30,000 miles since his last trany fluid change. The PRND321 bulb is just the bulb, no biggie here. The reverse lights from what your saying is most likely the inhibitor (or what we non japanese car people call the neutral saftey switch). This switch not only works the backup lights, but tells the TCU what gear you have selected. There can be more, but i think those are the solutions to the problems. nipper
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