nipper

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nipperdawg/sets/72157600595057955/ nipper

i got a pioneer deck that controls my ipod. YOu really do need to read or find the manuals and check to see if they like CD-r, CD+r, CD-RW, CD+RW. The older (actually most OE) decks wont play MP3's. nipper

Rust never sleeps .... Cars can mechanically be repaired as long as you love it enough to fix it. Rust on the other hand, is almost unstopable if not caught in time. You are inot the golden years of the car, which is sort of like living past 80. SOmone can die at 81, others can live till 100. It just depends alot on how that car was maintained up till now, and how its maintained after this point. Change your fluids regularly, pat her on the dash board once in a while, and dont let maintanence items or weird running go to long. nipper

i have more, i just cant post them nipper

Conical washers? Are you sure thats not an older mechanical LSD or Posi, not a VC LSD. VC lSD are (if i remember correctler) a sealed clutch pack that looks like a small drum. nipper

If you get yours before i get mine ........ nipper

Sounds like a HG issue nipper

STOP! YOu are playing with one of the few things that can really hurt you. The system has a saftey valve, and i think that is what is going off. YOu need a proper set of gauges to read the AC system. The gauges on the can are junk. There are a few problems that can cause no ac, that have nothing to do with the comporessor. You need to look deeper into the problem. nipper

A analog meter will do. You are looking for a very low but consistant AC pulse that is at the proper intervals. The cam sensor gives the ECU input to manage the fuel injectors. Without it it goes into a pre programmed fuel map, hence why its bad for emissions. nipper

Well you missed the fireworks, and the scary lawn darts nipper

*drool*

Just wait for 202 nipper

That was my favorite subaru of all time. Mine died at 225,000 miles due to cancer. (sorry Blu, but it was) nipper

Once a thread gets into the third page, i forget who is who nipper

You have a bad HG. The metal in the cooling system dont weat. Replace the radiator cap as it prbbly needs one. Subarus are hard to diagnose a HG untill it really blows, so dont blame the mechanic. On the TB, check to make sure all the tires match. Make sure they are all properly inflated. Change the tranny fluid using the drain and fill method (3 times). Put the fuse in the FWD holder and see if that fixes the problem. There is no filter to change on the tranny. We need to see if you need and HG, tranny, or both.

First you need to understand how an engine works. An engine is a big air pump. http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm Burned valve or a hole in the piston would be zero or low compression. Bad rings would give lower compression. A wet compression test seals the rings. If the number comes up you have bad rings. If they dont come up either the valves are fine, or (if low) you have a worn valve. If the intake valves dont open, you will have no compression. Compression gauge is a pressure gauge with a one way valve in it. Every compression stroke compressed air is pushed into the gauge. It is not unusal to need three or four revs of the engine to get max compression that the cylinder is making. If the cylinder is making 60 psi, no matter how many times you crank, you will only get 60 psi. The same goes for 180 psi (60 120 180 on each crank), this is due to air being a compressable medium, and human error. Burnt valves and holes in pistons are not intermittent. The only thing that may go away is a stuck piston ring. http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/compression.htm (its not Always easy to do it on a hot engine,) ANother gauge to use is a vacum gauge, which fills in the rest of the information that a compression gauge may not show http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm hope that helps nipper

mine sort of say "oi vey, that hurt" at 205,000 miles nipper

I've come to the conclusion, that its 50% SUbaru and 50% the dealership. Some dealerships will fight to get you the HG job (they get reinbursed from subaru for the cost of warrenty work). Some dealerships could care less. This is no differnt then any other make of car. From what you have said about the dealership, they didnt even do a proper test. A customer comes in with a complaint of loss of coolant on a car known to have HG issues. First thing that happnes is the paperwork is noted that the customer is complaining of loss of coolant. Next should not only be a leak down test (which personally i would skip all together), and a hydrocarbon test. For your part you need to look at the coolant at regular intervals, as "every so often" doesnt tell anyone anything (including the dealership). What is this predefined mark? If its not the full when cold level, that is not informative either. For the record, several things can affect fluid level in the resivoir. One being evaporation (if the car really is driven so little). Another is air temperature. Dirt around the neck of the radiator cap will do it too. I suggest right now replacing the radiator cap. They get old. Leaks happen for other reasons aside from HG's. This is usually a good reason for coolant level issues, and a cheap "chicken soup" fix. nipper

If its groaning with suspension movement, you can go as long as you want untill tire wear is affected, or handling (or you get sea sick). Groaning may just be tired seals in the top of the strut. nipper

Yes and no. Not only does that cooler cool the tranny oil, but it helps warm it up. There isnt a lot of flow or pressure going through that line. If water flows through too fast, it wont pick up a lot of heat. Dont run more then 14 psi through that cooler. Thats the max the cooling system normally stands up to. I dont think you want to find out exactly how over engineered that heat exchange is. nipper

After what i just went through with the factory oil pressure, oil temp gauges i beleive you. i forgot how much i sometimes hate japanese car wiring. Dont get me wrong, its robust, but the wires change colors without warning. nipper

For the hell of it, jumpers cable and the ignition key may not be a bad place to start nipper

Cam crank (and vss) sesnors are all hall effect sensors (magnetic), not optical. Haynes is showing only black, yellow and white, with yellow being the sheild. i lost track of the year of your car, but 1996 and on they show only two wires. nipper

Crank position sensor is what determins piston position and identifies where any given piston is at any given time. A failed crank sensor will give you a no start condition. Camshaft position sensor has more to do with the timing of the fuel injectors. A failed cam sensor will not affect the starting of the car, but will screw up the injector timing. Other sensors come into the picture as far as adjusting the timing, including the knock sensor, map, o2 and engine temp. The only sensor that will keep the car from starting (sometimes) in that list is the ECU Engine Temp sensor. When you test the cam and crank sensors, it is important to test them by hand spinng the engine and looking for minor AC fluxuations that properly spaced (look in the haynes manual) and of a consistant output. You may have a damaged tooth on the cam wheel. nipper

Those are much more respectable numbers. Depending upon who you talk to, compression numbers should be between 10-15% of the lowest and highest. There is some minor ring wear. The valves are good. Its hard to tell on a subaru about a bad HG by compression test, but usually they kick out coolant, they dont burn it. I dont see a bad HG by those numbers either, otherwise you would have one or two low cylinders next to each other. Get the dye test. Here is something you can try to, have somone that doesnt drive the car get in the car and turn the heat on full hot but a medium fan setting. See if they smell anything sweet. We all get acustomed to our surroundings, so both drivers may not notice it, but a stranger might. Newer soobies dont have that many places for hidden leaks, unlike the old soobies. nipper