nipper

It's a semi myth. It doesn't cause a good seal to leak, it just causes a weak seal to leak sooner. It's just a differnce between them leaking in 1000 miles or 5000 miles, but either way it was going to happen. Seals may leak for a very short time after the changeover, but they usually stop, and its not enough to notice if the seals are good. By the way, its usually safer to talk politics and religon then it is oil nipper

Its a lot of time to properly rebuild a manual (at home). Then with the synchros you need access to a press to do it properly. Have youy tried chainging gear oil to redline? nipper

sometimes its not the guy behind the counter, its the supllier they use. Mom and pops will at least call thier supplier to complain, others would just give you another one. Unfortunitly you are a very rare breed, nipper

actually some autoparts stores have been terrible at "giving the right one" Remove yours first and take it with you. Count the splines. Do not give up yours incase the "right one" still doesnt work right. ALso some of their suplliers have been real junk. I would suggest a mom and pop store first before a chain. nipper

What you had was a total failure of the CV joint (i've done it once myself). The old "gee it doesnt sound that bad" syndrom.

ok so the cv joint may have been giving warnings then, but the mechanic should have caught it. nipper

Do a search it will be here someplace. Why originally did you think you needed wheel bearings anyway? nipper

Last time i had it done at a dealer for my 1987 was 250.00. I had it done at the dealer after many feeble attempts by the a mechnaic by my office to fix it. He kept getting the wrong axle. That was a while ago, but there are still a lot of crummy rebuilt axles in the supply chain, so you may want to call a dealer and go there for peice of mind, especially if you have to drive back from where you came. nipper

And i know exactly where you were too Shot alot of film up there in october. nipper

Check them both, sometimes you can get a deal at tthe dealer. What should be done at this time is: Water pump Main seal Oil Pump Seal Cam Seals Tming belt tensioner This way you dont have to touch the front of the engine for another 106,000 miles. Keep in mind that the price may be 600 plus, but you wont have to do this again untill you hit 200,000 plus miles. OPtherwise the seals WILL leak between now and then, and the timing belt has to be rmoved to fix the seals. nipper

Let me guess, the engein will rev, but wont accelerate. It sounds like the CV joint completely failed, and the axle is just spinning. How to confirm this? Open the hood and spy the axle. With someone else in the car, have them put the car in drive and look at the axles (do NOT stand infront of the car at any time). You should see just the axle spinning. You need an axle. I didnt notice if this had 4WD but if you do you can drive the car in 4wd to get it repaired. It will drive like a RWD car. nipper

The one thing that amazes me is that even high mileage outbacks (cars are more then just engines) are fairly solid. Usually everything still works (except 1/2 the drivers seat heater), no real squeeks, a few rattles. Now compare any outback with 200,000 miles to any other car in the same price range (when new) with that many miles and the other will have a lot more issues. At 202,000 miles my car needs struts. Now to me thats damn impressive. I am the second owner, the first never did suspension work. The only reson i know it needs struts was due to high speed right curves where the car is a bit scary, but lefts are fine. If it wasnt for that I wouldnt even know i had a weak strut. nipper

AC operates in defrost mode. I bet you are low on refrigerant. AC makes the defroster vastly improved inperformance. Get it fixed nipper

I know what it is, but the previous poster made it sound like people were talking about it in a very negative way "Maybe I'm dense but I don't see the big fuss about the "your car is going to melt into a pile of goo". Everyone flipped out about biodiesel too. Whats it going to cost change all those old rubber lines and o-rings to something resistant anyway? $30-50?" I just said i didnt see a single person flip out over it. nipper

Green connectors are the diagnostic codes Yellow harness is airbag (can we say POOF) DO a search here to see if there is any more info. nipper

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa no fair you forgot to make sure the tires match, if its a manual or auto and they dont be prepared for an AWD repair in the future. Drive the car in a tight cricle to check for TB. It should move slowly and with little or no gas. nipper

Can you get a freind to press the clutch pedal and (if you can see) the slave cylinder to make sure it has a full stroke. If it does then i would start suspecting the fork. nipper

Sounds like a clutch problem. Do you have any fluid in the resivoir for the clutch cylinder? Its not uncommon for the hydraulic clutch to go bad after a new clutch. It is possible that you have a leak. Not being able to shift at all sounds like a hydraulic issue or a clutch fork issue. nipper

Except bio deisel doesn't melt the older fuel system, doesnt require 5 gallons of water to make 1 gallon of fuel, doesnt give you 30% less fuel effecincy and power. I haven't seen a single person flip out over biofuel, so i dont know where that comes from. By a diesel for chrysler and there is bio mixed in with the normal diesel. Bio diesel is something that snuck up on the mfg's, and a lot of them are testing thier cars asap (to make sure they meet emissions) so they can be the first to say they are certified to run on biodiesel. nipper nipper

i know ive been watching. Part of the problem is that we can't use sugar cane. On the plus side if global warming keeps going the way it is, maybe we can grow enough sugar cane. nipper

computers are a very very good thing nipper

The flex plate can complete fail. WHat your hearing is a crack in the flex plate. As with any metal, the more it bends, the weaker it gets and the bigger the crack. Another possability is that it is an internal bushing inside the torque converter. Take it back sooner then later. nipper

what he said. Internal "filters" (they are screens actually) are not meant to be replaced ever. The spin on filters are, but even they have long intervals. nipper

or worse. there have been some piston sleeves that have moved, very very ugly thing Also dont forget an oil change if the engine has gotten hot. It's a little insurance. nipper

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-58162.html This may open up a can of worms, but figured i would list it. Here is a question. is it a ceramic clutch? If it is then you will get some chatter in the morning untill the clutch warms up. In doing research for this question i came across that. If thats the case then you have to have chatter. I would also make sure the machine shop take off just enough to clean up and flatten the flywheel surface. I know when people have "lightened" the flywheel, there have been chattering issues. nipper