nipper

I am sorry but I disagree never use anything on a HG. As long as the heads are machined properly with the proper finish you are golden. The only time an engine assembly may be problematic in the cold is if you were blueprinting the engine. Assembly of an engine where you are not checking every critical dimension to get in the middle of a tolerance doesnt really care if you get frostbite. I would however use warm engine oil for the first start up (sotre it in the house till needed) just to make life easier for the engine.

No I just have a justy and no garage

If they are using OE bucket seals, go with felpro. I like felpro, only headgasket needs to be OE

I would love a 4wd justy, but they are all very far away form me, and i can't aford to insure a third car

I have an 89 CVT 2dr with 35K on it. Always a fun car to drive, i take it everywhere, even long road trips

They are easy to put a blower on. there are a few of them on the justy board.

Lets confirm the engine was still running when she got no thorttle response. Scangauges are great tools, but sometimes a CEL will be thrown and the gauge will freeze up. I have had this happen to me, and I don't remember the resoning for it, but it has something to do with the problem being intermitent at the time so the computer can't lock into a code, or something like that.

If you want to know what happens when the TCU goes poof, you can disconnect the TCU under the hood and find out. What happens when you shift the car manually? I doubt all those are bad at the same time, but since we know one has failed and the driving symptoms confirm it, I would replace that and see what happens. Check your engine grounds too as that can sometimes make for wierd readings. It shouldnt but sometimes i sear electrons have not read the same electrical engineering books that the rest of us have.

I'm going to be a hater for owning a pretty little 360 and having a garage almost as big as my house

You may have to drop the shaft to check it, but considering what can go wrong if you dont check it, well worth it. Usually the vibration starts at 80, then slowly will start at 70, then 60 etx. If yours starts at 40 worth an inspection sooner then later. Also another possability is inner cv joints. Have you tried just rotating tires one side at a time to see what happens, as it is fast and simple.

If this is a one of thing, was the radiator clogged with snow? that can cause a run hot issue

another possability, a hariline crack in the radiator allowing for leakage when cold or hot. If it opens up when hot you will never see the source of the leak. I dont think this is a HG issue.

Check the universal joints in the drive shaft, you may have on that is seized.

Did it over heat or run hot/ Over heat, could be a kink in the HG job Run hot in extreem cold- Raditor cap Antifreeze mix (doubt it) Low coolant clogged radiator stuck thermostat

But whhich version, you dont know. ALso you don't know if the latest REV comes out what they do with all those kits.

If you weld your front diff? Do you like the front end of your car? You will find that steering thing to really be overated if you do that.

The deeper and more critical the engine part, the more important the need to use ONLY OE parts. OE keeps the designs up to date, where aftermarket may not even know of a revision, or even keep up with the revisions. Price a used low mileage engine before you delve into again.

Lights burn out, it happens, I dont think it is related. This is a common failure, as the driver gets in and out a gazillion times and eventually the wires break.

Walcome to the forums!

ALWAYS on any car use factory head gaskets when working with aluminum engines. Using aftermarket can cause big headaches. Heads always go to a machine shop to be inspected and milled if needed. Not only is the flatness of the head critical, but so is the smoothness of the sealing surface. Also doung a HG on an engine at this mileage is iffy.Restoring the sealing (and the cleaning up of the head by a machine shop) will boost the compression back to spec or better, and stress those piston rings, which can lead to blow-by.

Blu used to do this, i think maybe you may want to look someplace else. With Him the Tabs for the air box were broken. At wide open throttle this would cause an air leak, hence a whistle. So check to make sure your airbox (air filter) is seated if you have touched it lately.

YAY hes back! I am going to guess what ever happened was no one did any maint on this car aside from oil changes. Check the condition of your brake fluid, if that hasnt been changed ...

i would be jumping for joy if i got an entirely new driveline for 900 bucks i hate when we never get to hear how things turn out.

I'm going to defend the Front Transfer Case on this one. If the guy you are talkig to is an auto writer, the insurance claim form (his end) may have a seperate check box for transmission, and nother for transfer case, instead of an AWD check box. I have seen it before. Its just thier way of notating the transmission and/or AWD unit is bad. If they are going to use subaru parts to fix everything, try not to smile too much, as you are getting basically a entire driveline. I have seena few tribecas on other boards have tranny issues (like three) and needed new trannies around 120K. I would assume that Subaru did not use a legacy Auto for a heavy car like a tribecca, but you never know.