nipper

Well I would yank the engine and reseal it, do the timing belt, change the plugs, reseal the engine. When you do the clutch, replace the retaining clips (and If it is cable operated replace the clutch cable)

Well get one used, much cheaper. Not cheap new

I like the broken IAC body theory. That fits with cold (plastic contracting making a vac leak). Learn where the IACV is. Next time it does it spray the AICV with some water or carb cleaner, if the RPM changes, that is the source.

Thats why you ONLY use a graphite lube in locks, it is made for it. WD40 isnt really a true lubricant

I think you have some fabrication ahead of you. Looking at mini starter, they show small high torque starers for v-8s, which look about the size of a sooby starter. Google it "mini starter" then select "shop for" where the pictures are, maybe that will help?

That is too high considering that that temp isnt all that cold in the grand schem of things. Just out of curiosity what would happen if you let the car idle, how long would it take for the RPM to drop? Time it please. What would happen if it did not sit in the garage over night?

Have you tired using some graphite (lock ease) in the cylinder? Should do it to all the key l;ocks once a year anyway.

I dont know what would fit, but there are starters out there called "reduction gear" starters. They usually have shorter motors and spin fatser, but use a gear reduction to make the extra torque to spin the engine at the right speed. Off hand I do not even know where to start looking for what would fit. However I never really though of subaru starters as being that huge.

So the car can move on its own now? If so, where can you feel the vibration. Is it throughout first gear or only towards the bottom middle or end of the rpm range? Does it happen in all gears at that rpm or only first and reverse? Wht happens when you go to parking lot and make a full lock turn at idle speed? Do all your tires match Are all the tires properly inflated?

I may sell my roof rack, it is too big and bulky for a 2005 with a sunroof.

I was thinking that but eventually I want a full sized spare tire. I swapped haed units from a 2009 and that used an amp. I will be powering the factory speakers.

Ok wasnt sure about the draw since I got this used from ebay, found the specs, no real info. The amp will have to be mounted on the back of the drivers side folding seat upside down to protect the wires when there is cargo. It doesnt fit under the seat. I wonder where subaru puts the amp normally.

Broke at the inner CV joint. Just replace the axles, don't rebuild them. Use the source cited.

It is always the little details they leave out ....

I am preping him for his first major surgery, an amplifier. I have the factory HVAC built into the (2009) Head unit. From looking at the wiring diagrams I can not seem to find a good signal source to turn the amp on. If this works I will decide if I can use that to drive it Or does it need to pull in a relay to turn on the amplifier. The 2009 unit had the SAT option, so I am going to try to find the power source that goes from the head unit to the SAT unit and use that as the signal for the amp. The plan is to mount the amp (sony xplod) under the passenger seat, OR if the measurements work out in the spare tire area. I wish I could find a good wiring diagram on all the connectors on the back of this head unit, as the FSM leaves out all the cables for the SAT unit. I looked on Scoobymods but nothing is listed. Thanks

The HVAC lights burning out is fairly common, They dont go all at once, it just seems like they do, untill the last littl soldier gives his filament for life and liberty! They are not too difficult to replace.

You popped a cv joint. I bet (be careful) if you put the FWD fuse in the holder, put the car in drive (do not stand in front of the car) and look at the drive shafts, you will see one spinning like mad and the other just sitting there waiting for something to happen. It is the one that is spinning like mad that is broken. The rear wheels are essentially driving the car, the vibration your feeling is the bad CV Joint, and the fluid change, all soobys love fluid changes.

The lights in modern cars are broken up into zones, so it also controls the lights that don't dim. It is also the keeper of the magic smoke...

Thanks, i will book mark that for later in the spring.

Anyone done a skid plate for an 05?

Blu had a "going" rear wheel bearing for the past 3 years. I got so used to it. Now my 2005, Blu2, is so dead quiet I can hear owls in it (something sounding like a hoot owl in the distance inside the car). It can even depend uon what the road surface is made out of. Usually the choice of tires will make a big dent in road noise, but not always.

I used them for the Justy. They left parts out. I was very pissed. See if you can find someone local to you they do exist.

And the water pump leak means timing belt and cam crank seals, re seal the oil pump, and as long as your there new drive belts and thermostat. But that leaking water puimp is a sooner then later thing.

Fuel filter air filter. I would also do the timing belt thing to, just yank the engine and do everything with the engine out, it will make all the work go that much faster, especially for the baffle plate leak (if that is what you are calling the seperation plate?)

no redflags here at all, also peg yourself for a tuneup too.