nipper

What the .... There have been quite a few bad crank sensors that have caused no start symptons. I suggest you get a FSM or something to diagnose instead of just guessing things. http://www.doityourself.com/stry/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor#b http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/53131-he-says-its-a-crankshaft-sensor/ http://www.ehow.com/about_5860665_bad-crank-sensor-symptoms.html Also can be a bad cam sensor, both of which have shown up here on this board often. Good luck, as this has seemed to turn into a mess with all the part swapping. General rule, when a car ran then suddenly stopped after being shut off, look at timing belt, cam, crank sensors. Crank sensor is ignition timing, cam sensors. For the record I am an automotive engineer by trade so really you may have made things worse then better by swapping everything out. And of course no one plugged in the green connectors under the dash, the ones only used for diagnostic purposes at the dealership and reflashing the ECU. When those are connected the car will run but the fans will always be on along with some other oddness. Also logically you wont get trouble codes on crank untill the car starts and runs, it is part of the code written in an ECU, otherwise it would be throwing all sorts of bad codes. Your crank sounds odd. It is not unheard of for a timing belt or chain to jump when a car is shut off or when the throttle is lifted. the timing drive is suddenly unloaded and then there is slack and you can get a tooth jump. If the crank and cam sensors are too far out of synch you wont get spark or fuel as the ECY will not allow raw gas to be pumped into the catalytic converter. Never forget that you still need suck squish boom blow to make a car run. The ECU and OBD is JUST a tool, it is not where the solution to every problem is.

You silly Of course we can't afford shipping Or mounting the thing or, Wait, the cyclops actually works, sorry, its going on ebay ...

Since they were under the car, check to make sure the Engine Temp Sensor is not unplugged. Also a failed crank position sensor. Sensors do fail at the oddest time. A bad crank sensor will keep you from starting. You will never get a code on crank or "on" position, as everything is not functioning at that point. And a helpful hint, do NOT go nuts just swapping things out. You can make problems that were not there, especially if you do not return the car back to its original state.

I am here for one reason and one reason only Suby L Jackson! What a great name for a car

Er um ..... Why oh why do i have to ask the painful questions? Is this an automatic or manual? Why was the rack replaced? And now the painful one Do all your tires match? Are they equally worn? Any angry lights on the dashboard?

Does this mean we have to give him some sort of award, like the Broken Cyclops Award?

Especially since we just redecorated ....

BENJAMIN PRESTON it seems like he is a member on this board some place at least it sounds like it.

or about to be completly ruined by billion of wannabe subaru owners lovers and haters, you never know with the internet http://jalopnik.com/this-honduran-subaru-nut-writes-awesome-how-to-manuals-429795764 Especially you Mr Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Manufacturers Part Number: 48107 I have only found one person asking about them looking for a part or something and saying it is built with heavier steel then Reese. On the plus side I havent found out a single bad thing about them either aside from being out of business.

I never heard of this brand. They are on clearance sale everywhere for a low price as it seems like the company went belly up. I would just be using it for a bike rack. Anyone heard of them before?

http://www.carsatcarlisle.com/events/import/ Who is up for it. I will bring the Justy

I actually like the price as I paid more then that from subaru for a long block, well, because mine had a giant hole on the top of it.

Sent you a zip file on the engine, let me know if you get it.

Whats your email. I can email you the procedure from the FSM.

Well that may be an issue ... Looks like ti is time to get new hardware for the drum brakes.

It is possible that it may have a tired clutch. If you are going to have the engine reselaed, I would just write it off as wear and tear. Check the tires make sure they are all equally worn and match. But what you do need to do is check for torque bind. Go out to a flat paved parking lot. Once the car is moving at idle speed have the car make a tight circle. The car should not need any throttle (or very little) and there should be no jerking andthe steeringwheel should not fight you. If it does it has torque bind. Torque bind in a manual means you need a new center diff/viscous coupling. Struts are probably getting tired. Rear hatch handle may stick or is rusty, that is not a deal killer. They are cheap to fix with new parts. good luck.

An injector cleaning only should be needed over 100K miles once, or if there is running issue where everything else has been ruled out. It is something you can do yourself and no need to pay a shops prices for it. When you have only one injector, any injector problems would be easy to find

Heat shields are loose. A large hose clamp will fix it for a year, then just another hose clamp.

It's not illegal to disable the ABS system on the car. ON newer cars you may be disabling other things too. You can change tire sizes, it may affect the minimum mph the system starts to react at, but we are only talking a few MPH change.

I would check cables. Heck I am a pro and sometimes i miss the simple things myself. I prefer seeing 13 volts on a battery myself. Check your ground cables, make sure they havent rotted out. Do you have a starter interupter on this car. The alarm was going off because you replaced the battery or the car thinks you did. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/techtips.html scroll down to the car wont start

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=spec%20b Manufactured by Subaru, the Legacy 2.5GT Spec.B was first introduced in 2006. It offers several suspension upgrades including Blistein shocks, aluminum control arms, and unique top hats. It also comes standard with navigation, which cannot be had with any other Subaru with a manual transmission. For 2007+ the Spec.B was also fitted with a 6-speed manual transmission identical to the Impreza WRX STi model (with modified gear ratios). Often overlooked features of the Spec.B include 100W speaker system, heated seats, 10-spoke alloy wheels and Bridgestone Ultra Performance tires (RE050). All of these items are, of course, already figured into the base price. 2006: Silver, 250HP, 250 ft-lbs, VF40 Turbo, Red leather interior 2007: Diamond Grey Metallic, 243HP, 241 ft-lbs (due to SAE HP ratings change), VF46 Turbo, Black leather with Blue Alcantara inserts, Introduction of the "SI Drive" system 2008+: DGM or Silver, 243HP, 241 ft-lbs, VF46 Turbo, Black leather with Black Alcantara inserts, Slightly different front and rear bumper for the 08s All Subaru Legacy 2.5GT Spec.Bs have a base MSRP at $33,995.

https://www.dragtimes.com/video-viewer.php?v=lR69cRnuNkk&feature restored asking oveer 10K so may not be unreasonable ... CRAZY but not unreasonbale

http://www.finecars.cc/en/detail/car/210658/index.html By blowing up the spedo it has less then 9000 miles on it, i think thats why and looks original

I think you may be blaiming the car for something that is far mre basic. No matter the vehical, it is all ground clearance. if there is more snow then ground under the car you will loose traction as it high ends.