ballitch

they are expensive but try autozone or schucks or knetchs or however you spell it, i needed one for my car and they quoted me like $75 for one that is compatible with all subie o2 sensors, and yes it was a bosch. never go to the dealer to buy stuff man, unless you really like bending over counters. ~Josh~

trust in the lord our subaru, it will get you through. insurance is the biggest scam known to man anyway, why indulge them in your mishap. F*** the police. ~Josh~

you can still remain and give advice man, no need to cut the cord, so to speak. ~Josh~

i know i would buy some, the stock pieces are very breakable, and some heavy duty lower A-arms would fit the bill just right. not to mention if you could get it to be darn near stock spec. ~Josh~

is that like 1/8 inch tubing for those, and how was the camber/caster/toe in affected, or are you just that good and copied it perfectly? ~Josh~

this is the exact reason why subaru uses full unibody roll cages built into the frame of the car, strong as hell and saves your butt. the car is trashed but you can walk, not many are as fortunate. ~Josh~

i need to do this on my 98 legacy sedan, same rules apply? if so then ima go for it, as soon as i figure out that stupid problem with my EJ converison. do you have to drop the strut and axle and all that good stuff, would like to not have to pay for an alignment after im done if possible. ~Josh~

i wouldnt think that hooking up ignitor backwards would hurt it, after all, it did start and run for about a total of an hour and a half, including about 20 mins driving time. i think i have checked all the basics i can think of, except for the cam and crank angle sensors, if one or both went bad, then i would think that the ecu would shut motor down immediately. other than that i am at a loss for ideas, i ve checked everything i can think of, need a couple more brain cells on this one i guess. ~Josh~

take the positive battery cable off for like an hour or two, you will have to reset your stereo settings and such, that is the easiest way that i have heard of. ~Josh~

well the ecu is now off the list, i works just fine, put it in the 1990 wagon and she fired right up....................what the heck is wrong with this thing............it was running great.............then nothing................battery is fully charged, still nothing, no fuses blown, still nothing, might have to think about taking harness out of car and unwrapping it to find problem. no way do i want to do that. ~Josh~

one of my buddies is going to honda tech school, really talented guy, he has to buy about 12k in tools for the tech training, and know how to use them, he is getting them from snap-on no less, he is getting a discount cuz the dealership he works at has the snap-on guys come in every once and a while, and he got to be tight with them, but for the most part, certified techs own their own tools, and they are not cheap, or easily broken. but paying for stealership prices is insane, it is true, 20 years ago, you had a couple of choices, mecahnic, welder, const. worker, or some other kind of manual labor type career, now, it is just the opposite, the dealership is a business, and any business stays in business because of stupid people that are too ignorant or dont care enough to know anything about the car that gets them around, so they pay what the dealership charges, with not much discontent, with us however, we're a different breed, a half-breed, if you will, a combo of the two, and we, well say ****-you to dealerships. ~Josh~

not much i think, they have the same bolt pattern and the same power handling ability as each other, some years are better than others i imagine, but for the most part, no change, either will work fine for the EJ20 you want, but you might want to think about getting the gears cyro'd, they freeze them for 24 hours and makes the molecules of metal tightly "squeezed" together by the cold environment, making it like 50% stronger than stock, you can do it to pretty much any car part, shocks and springs, sway bars, lower and upper A-arms and alll that stuff. ~Josh~

well...... in all my glory it DID run. first of all, the ignitor i had i thought didnt work, i had it upside down. i know what youre thinking, this guy can tear apart a whole wire harness from a car and transplant it into another car and the dumb*** puts the ignitor backwards...... anyway, it did run, ran fine, only problem is, it doesnt now, it stopped running while i was burping the coolant system. right before my ears. i checked the fuses, like 5 times, fusible links, the grounds, the powers for the harness, i ckecked the ignitor, the the power TR unit thingy that is hooked up to the ignitor, the alternator i am pretty sure is ok, i am charging the battery back to full so i can try to start it, it sounds like it isnt getting any spark......kinda like when i had the ignitor backwards........the weird thing is it just stopped, the fuel pump was working great and was still running after the motor died. it just plain stopped working, ima try pulling the battery cables and seeing if the ecu went into ultra-hyper-oh-my-god-check-engine-mode.......the kind where it says ......oh no im not going to run until you fix my stuff buddy. one thing.............there is a little sensor or something on the 1 and 3 cylinder side of the intake manifold, it has two vacuum lines going to or from it, one goes directly behind the throttle body and the other ties into the lower part of intake manifold, i think it is called the IAC valve, idle air control or something like that, it was clicking after i tried to restart the motor after it shut down, it would "click" in a pattern, 2 clicks just about 3/4 quarters or one full second after the other, very consistently, maybe its a clue, i dont know the coil from which the harness gets power i think is ok, ran harness power straight from battery, did nothing. im stuck, and need to get the damn thing running because i took insurance off my 98 legacy when this thing WAS running to save some dough, but my success it seems was short lived. ~Josh~

when you do a lot of hard cornering, the oil in the oil pan shifts to the opposite side of the turn, centrifugal force thing doing it, and the oil cant be picked up by the oil pump, motor starves for oil, not to mention turbo starves, and motor goes bang, a catch can is mounted higher than the motor to store oil and give the motor oil while cornering, also adds to the amount of total oil in car, double the oil, the longer it lasts, not to mention you can add an oil cooler really easy. ~Josh~

i had no idea that mavda had rims that could be "grafted" onto subes. hmm....the possibilites............... ~Josh~

$1600 for a shortblock, i bought my complete EJ22 for $400, im sure you can track someone down that is throwing either a EJ22 into an outback or someone that has an RS that is doing EJ20 swap on nabisco. no way should a short block cost thta much, unless it is made for tons of boost. heck you can grab a stage 1 shortblock form cobb for that much, and boost the crap out of it for that price. ~Josh~

the reason the windows dont roll down all the way is for the child safety concerns, so children cant crawlout fo window while you going down the road, but on some cars i think you can disable it somehow. ~Josh~

oh i forgot to answer your other question, i routed the ecu and some of the harness behind the acordian-like thingy that connects the heater fan to heater core, most of it is in engine bay zip-tied off from hot parts, that way it isnt combersome in the footwell area and easy to access if need be. ~Josh~

i only ended up using like 1/10th of the wire harness, i had my bro label the ecu wires and we followed each wire until it ended into something that wasnt connected or wasnt needed to make the motor run, like CC, my car doesnt have that or A/C, and you dont need the power brake unit module thingy. i actually cut out the wires i needed form the rest of the harness and numbered them for later splicing, i numbered using alphabet and numbers, worked great, i used most the the spare wire loom from the tear down for the rewrap. if you can get a hold of a tool that electricians use, it makes holes in metal boxes, the kind that hold wires in them, bigger, i used one that made like inch and 3/4 hole out of firewall, and fed prepared wire harness through it. if you got a harnes from a car with the same gen motor cool, i didnt. i used 96 impreza motor and 91 harness and ecu from manual car, had to swap the throttle bodies and engine harnesses, good thing the guy i bought the wire harness from included the engine harness too. the really cool thing is that the only accessory my car has is an alterantor, im getting the hole 130 hp baby!!!!!!! good luck and for god sakes TAKE YOUR TIME. it will pay off in the end, trust me. run "always hot" wires form ecu, theres two of them, straight to battery with fuses, run harness off of the + on your EA coil, it is a switched source, that way harness turns on when key is in run position. I ran fuel pump off the ign source something, cant remember, use a 12v test and find which wire from ignition is on when key is in ON or RUN position, so it isnt on when you have just radio on. i wired mine to toggle switch in super-secret loaction so i can turn off fuel pump if i want to. this is kinda long so ill "WRAP IT UP!!!" ~Josh~

i vote make your own headliner, you can add more insulation for better heat repelling/containment, not to mention quieter if you have a bumpin system in it. ~Josh~

ive never heard of a problem with the EJ18 except for the fact that they dont have much power, but they tach out at like 7k dont they. ~Josh~

i need the address and/or zipcode for directions................that means im in. ~Josh~

thats bullcrap, my harness had twice that amount of elec. tape on it.........................................NO FAIR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ~Josh~

CCR is pretty much the best place you can go, with a 36,000/ 3 year warranty on motor, no dealer that i know of would do that. ~Josh~

sounds like bad rings or loss in compression to me, is your car using alot of oil, does it leak it or seem to have it go nowhere. if its idling rough and has no power, sounds like compression loss to me, do a compression test first and see what that tells you. could also be that little plastic plate on backsidfe of engine, they will loose their seal and leak oil back there. ~Josh~