rallyruss

check out the pic. its alittle shorter on the pass. side. if it were true equal length it would be a bit large to fit. WJM will they make different flages for different types of turbos like say a vf11:slobber:

turbo size upgrade would be verry helpfull. no sensor changes needed. too bad skip is on a little break but here is what he was working on last. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12531&highlight=vf11 I plan to do almost the same if I can afford to keep my RX.

they sell adaptors if you really want to run the cone filter. there are better ways toget it to breath in my opinion. the mas airflow sensor is not much of a restriction compared to your intake. do the exhaust right off the turbo with 2.5" that will help.

dont have that spec on hand for the crank. the little cover is for crank case vevtilation/oil seperation. I dont know why they did it that way but they did. if its not leaking I would leave it alone. the orange collor indicates it got hot. as for spinning they dont keep spinning much after you let go of the shaft(spun by hand) but it shold be easy to turn.

it is much easyer to do with the pully off thats why I said to pull it off. not as much of a chance to damage stuff if you go in from the front.

no cap on resivoir no big deal. not the problem. air in system. well there are many different ways I have heard. the simplest is to park the car on a up hill grade or jack up the front. and let it cool down. top off any air gap in the radiator and repeat after running if it is still needed. as for your temp range 220 is about the hottest I would expect to see. thats about to overheat it. 195 to 210 would be better.

you either have a flow problem( waterpump impelar) or a crappy radiator. I rember you said it was boiling into the resivoir right? well I think you are genuinely overheating. make sure all the air is out of the cooling system too. that will give you problems as well.

well if thers a boost leak there may be a vac. leak at idle as well. this depends on where its leaking of course. you have double checked all your hose connections I assume and they are all good and tight. I had made my inital IC piping out of some ghetto PVC and another plumbing fitting. after the IC set up was proven I welded up a stainless mandrel bent piece to the throttle body and a regular steel reducer to the turbo. all silicone hoses as well. carbon fiber is a bit dificult to work with as you may know now. I hate to say it but that may be where the problem lies. try propane to find the leak at idle. listen for a change in rpm/smoothness.

the most common problem is the worn out throttle shaft bushings. a regular rebuild will not help you with that. check out roobuilders http://www.ccrengines.com/roobuilders/ or a local machine shop possibly

yes pully needs to come of and be verry carefull with the brushes and springs they will come out on you as well.

turbos dont like more duration only lift. as for compression why not intercool it? you would get the incerased air charge at a lower temp. saving your motor and gaining power. Im not knocking anyone for running high compression with out an IC but the IC would be my first priority. that AND high compression, now that would be sumting to go fast.

there are no fuel injectors if its carburated. fuel system cleaning will probably not do you any good. when you are talking about pick up do you mean acceleration? if so yes it may affect it. sound sike you need a qualified mechanic to look at it. dont go to the dealer or jiffy lube type places they dont do what you need done. where is redlands? mabey someone local can help you find a good shop.

I will keep my conversion comments to my self here. Tom was really on to something good with the oil pressure cutoff safety and the use of a relay. the combo of the two would be the best set up. do not run your fuel pump thru a toggle switch. taping power off coil + is cool as it will only be hot with the key on. you may need to install a in line pressure regulator to keep the carb happy depending on what your pump is putting out. and the fuel pump was controled by the old maf sensor. there is a switch inside.

thats a bit tricky from your description. I assume its a carb motor? the whistle may be a vacume leak? mabey at the brake booster. This is a automatic transmission? I am not to familiar with the sube automatics but there are some common problems with them. is this what you are refering to? try to be a little more specific if you can.

yeah on most cars its called ported vacume switch. you can most likely take it to a parts store and match one up. I used to do that for customers back in the day when I worked parts. aftermarket ones are alot cheaper too. just need to figure which ports are normaly open or closed. (blow thru them)

um rallying would not be so good in a lifted sube the are high enough. I ran my RX in two RallyX events last year. I went overboard on the tires. keep em small. they make some little 13" khumo rally tires. I clearanced the fenders. sway bars are kind of a bad idea. they will limit your traction in rough sections. no sways with some stiff springs would be the best. I have the honda springs on the wagon but left the RX stock. they would probably lift you too high. If you really want to get into it let me know I have had some experience and training with club and pro rally as well as rallyX

ok I thought I had heard this before but the first search I did came up with this. http://www.perma-cool.com/faq/coolers.html#no I wonder what CCR has to say about oil coolers mabey I will ask. dont want to void a waranty. oh as for the hose issue. like I said I make up hydraulic lines that are good for 3000 psi or higher with crimped on fittings. JIC connections that are really easy to remove. they are really strong. did it on a VW rabbit once. came out really nice.

yeah If it smells burny probably something is burning. not a bad Idea to clean and recheck. no blown CV boots spewing grease on exhaust? had that happen, it stunk.

I think the easyest parts swap is the Rad cap. if it does not hold pressure you will boil coolant into the overflow. another stupid question what percet anifreeze to watter are you running? I had straight coolant do the same thing. water transfers heat better than straight anifreeze. 50/50 is best to check when the T stat opens without needing to remove it. start car cold. put hand on upper rad hose. it should stay cold untill T stat opens. at time of opening you will feel a little pressure and some heat. if all this fails check for the head gasket or other problem by doing a compression test and a cooling system pressure test.

good call shawn. personal experience?

up to 90 psi. is not an issue. the gph is what you are thinking of. I seriously dont think that will be an issue. there should be no pressure on a retun line. if there is it means the line is restricted. so how are you powering that pump? I assume the stock pump is still in line.

are dogs allowed? on leash of course.

ok that means the volvo oil cooler is probably the best bet. thanks WJM has anyone else installed one yet? I know you distributed a few others.

dam is that one of those externaly lubricated motors? seriously though I see what you have going there. thats along the lines of my plan #1. I think my cooler is more restrictive than that one. a limited flow ability thru the cooler should not affect the vehicles Oil pressure or flow right? oiling systems make me nervous. just want to do it up right.

I need to find a mounting location for my oil cooler. has any one done this yet? where did it fit? first off many thanks to WJM for promptly sending out the oil cooler adapter. I have some ideas. #1 I have a tranny cooler off a dodge diplomat. measures aprox 12" by 6" and 2" thick. it will fit in front of the a/c condensor. plumbing will be tricky but as long as it stays small (hose ID) It will work. dont know if running a tranny cooler is a good idea though. #2 plumb it into the radiator where the tranny cooler lines are supposed to go. once again a tranny cooler? and lack of actual cooling. #3 A volvo OIL cooler. rather small but its meant for oil and can be mounted closer to the source. I have acess to hyd. hose equipment so building my own lines will not be a problem. hydraulic hoses are super durable and can be removed easy. any ideas? experience? yes I tried a search first.