Handtool

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=coolant+replacement+bubbles

My vote is for HLA's as well. When I replaced the oil pump on my 2.2 and got it back together it sounded just like that. I just held it at 5500 rpm for a good minute and it finally pumped up and quieted down. If I were you I might think about dumping a can of seafoam in the oil and making a few laps around the block, but that's just what I would do.

My '95 A/C would cycle on and off constantly when the system was low on refrigerant. Stopped into a local indy shop and paid $75 for a discharge and recharge. It's worked well since then (last summer).

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2498&page=1&pp=10&highlight=climate+control+backlight

That's right, the drum hubs are different than the disc. Might be a good time to upgrade to rear discs since you'll have it all apart. The parking brake cables are different as well.

Yep. You can find a 1/2" drive socket version at autozone. Comes in a pack with a couple other sizes.

If the back wheels spin in opposite directions that indicates an open diff. On a Limited slip Diff (clutch type) the wheels will rotate in the same direction. I've never had or played with a vlsd so I can't say how it reacts.

Unfortunatly no. I'm still looking for a clean, permanant way to install a backlit 12vdc clock...

I replaced the stock stereo and pocket in my '95 legacy with a 6-disc cassette combo stereo from an '02 forester. Complete plug and play.

http://www.burcoinc.com/ These guys make heaters and replacement mirror glass with heaters built in (for some models) if your looking to retrofit. I did it to my '95 legacy and it is a nice upgrade for chicago winters. The hardest part was removing the mirrors from the door (impact screwdriver works wonders) and running the wires through the door sill.

Update: It's been about a week since I swapped the crank and cam sensors with junkyard replacements. The original cam sensor was damaged. Looks like the last time someone removed the cam pulley they stuck a screwdriver in there and used the sensor for leverage to break the bolt loose. The upside is that I've had no starting issues since the swap out. If the problem doesn't return in the next 3 weeks, I'll swap the original sensors back in one at a time to determine which or if both sensors are the culprit.

A '95 legacy wagon should be a BG, a sedan is a BD. BF designates a first gen. legacy.

I wouldn't put the car on it's side. That's a long way for the tranny to fall. Just try to get room to get under it safely. Undo all the bolts at the bellhousing, front axels, electrical connections and free up the shifter from the interior trim. I like to put a rear seat bottom down to cushion the fall. Remove the driveline and tranny crossmember and pull it out onto the seat cushion. You'll need to make or buy an adapter to mate it up to your EJ and think about axels and cutting up your interior trim for the extra shifter. Sounds like a fun project. Good Luck!

The bushings in the linkage get worn. My '95 has the same problem. Here's a link with some links. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48436&highlight=shift%2A

Most people go the other way. Add outback struts to their non-outback legacy. Using the non-outback springs, I've read reports of a 1.5 to 2 inch gain in clearance. More if they switch to outback springs as well. I suspect that you would loose about that much clearance. The difference in going to legacy struts on your sus is that you will be using longer springs on shorter struts assuming your reusing the outback springs. I would imagine that this would affect the useable stroke of your struts. They will bolt up with no problems.

Starting at the center console cover, lift it up, and you shoud see 2 screws on either side of the latch for the lid. Remove those, and the piece covering the ebrake comes off. The piece with the shifter surround will pull out next, remove the shift knob to take it completely out of the way or rotate it a 1/4 turn so that you have a little room to work. You will either have a pocket and power socket or an ashtray and lighter. Remove the pocket/ashtray and the underside of the top of that recess has 2 screws holding the radio surround in. They hold up part of the ashtray mechanism if you have it, along with one more screw at the back. A stubby philips head screwdriver is needed to take out the top screws. Just loosen the screw at the back of the recess, you do not need to remove it. Take out the metal slide for the ashtray if applicable. Now open the cupholder. At the back is a button that will let you remove it from the dash. Remove the two screws on either side of the of the cupholder pocket and remove the pocket. Pop the top piece of trim that surrounds the HVAC controls up to clear for the top tabs of the radio bezel. This should let you remove the radio bezel. It can sometimes be a pain to get the lighter to come out of the dash without forcing it. Unplug the lighter wiring. There are 4 screws around the opening and two that are recessed farther back. Removing them should get your radio out of the dash. Good luck!. Edit: Here's a link with some pics. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89&highlight=legacy+outlet%2A

These struts are for a normal legacy and are a bit shorter than the outback models. The can be made to work but you will loose some ground clearance. Great price tho... Check out tirerack.com for the best price on the proper replacements for your SUS.

My key used to hang up in my '95 legacy sedan. I had the dealer cut a new key from the vin # and it's been working great. Might be worth a shot before you tear into the switch.

Can anyone who has used these larger bulbs comment on output? Are/were your panel lights noticably brighter?

Frag - The coolant sensors were replaced trying to sort out some faulty temp guage reading, so both the sensor for the guage and the ecu are new. I've also tried holding the pedal to the floor as I crank with no luck. I don't believe the car is flooding out. Nip - Unfortunatly I can't reproduce the problem at will. It is happening with more frequency (twice today) which is also unfortunate. I picked up some junk yard crank and cam sensors. After the holidays I will swap them out one at a time and see what happens. Is there any procedue for testing these sensors on or off the car with a DMM? Thanks for the input fellas.

Lately the EJ-22 in my ’95 legacy sedan has had some issues with restarting after it is warmed up. No issues at all when cold starting. Usually happens on short trips when running errands or at the pump when the car is shut down for 10 minutes or less. If I wait another 10 minutes or so it will fire up like normal with no abnormal exhaust color or other signs of flooding. It’s not throwing any codes and the engine has close to 160, 000 on it. Any ideas?

I put keyless entry into my '95 leggy last summer as well. These files should help you picture what your getting into. http://scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4607

Rebuilt lifters are $4.50 a piece. http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm

Hmmm, I can see it? Here's a link http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/baker...son81/my_photos

This guy used pods for a CRX and custom fitted them with a heatgun. Looks good to me...