Handtool

Yes, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45454

I too have a '95 legacy sedan with the exact same symtoms. The car is nearly uncontrolable on grooved surfaces like bridge grating. I've replaced everything but the rack trying to correct the problem. Everything as in tierods (inner and outer), ball joints, struts ('03 WRX), and rack bushings (whiteline polyeurethane). I guess all that is left is the rack. Does anybody have any experience in adjusting the backlash? I would also be interested in a source for inexpensive racks.

This pic is from an '86 ea-82 FSM. Putting your condensator in-line with hose #4 will work on the Carb'd models. MPFI and SPFI have different hose routing and the conedsator should be in-line with hose #2, basically in between the PCV valve and the 1st tee to make sure you filter all the blow by gases. I would think that this placement would work for any PCV system.

If your interested in going with the PDM snout kit I've got one for sale. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38531

How much did shipping run you?

http://members.aol.com/sterlingeq/3bar.htm These guys list a 3" sport bar for a Brat. Not cheap tho, 315$ plus frieght.

My PCV system need some reworking so I thought I would give one of these condensators a shot. Coffee mug Silica gel "filter" Filter holder Grunge after 250 miles Detachable for easy clean out. Only have about 250 miles on it so far. It has seemed to fix the smoking on long right handers tho.

Yes they should. It is a fairly common problem. Let me find a link for you. Here you go: http://scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91

Hmmm, anybody looked into mountig up a forester overhead console into a gen2 legacy?

In '95 the legacy had a digital clock incorporated into the head unit. I've replaced that pos deck with a 6-disc changer from a forrester. No clock. Anybody got any ideas for a clock that is back lit and will have a "stock" look to it?

Nothing beats a free Subaru! I always wanted to see just how many miles to the gallon you could squeeze out of a Subaru. That looks like the perfect test sled. I would replace the rear hatch glass with lexan. The only thing I would replace inside is the front seats. Run water injection, lean out the carb, advance the timing, put on some skinny rubber inflated to the max psi... Well, what ever you decide to do with it, its good to see that it will live again. Good luck with it.

Yeah it's 4x4 zipzap that came with the bigfoot body. Carpet doesn't slow it down too much but it does affect steering. This is the only one I've messed with so I can't compare it to anything but the stomper. A lifted brat with swampers was never something you could get off the showroom floor. You gotta work at it

The "lift" is a ZipZap on sale at Radioshack for 11$. The body is off a Stomper that I've had for quite a while. Zipzaps are a lot more fun than Stompers!

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Sent you a PM.

Here is a wiring diagram that skip posted. Wiring it this way will let the second fan come on when the first fan does or when you want it to with a dash mounted switch.

I say go for it. Subarus can handle wood...

Pull the engine unless you have a lift or a pit and tranny jack.

So was the install plug and play?

Nismo

I just saw the incredibly hot Jamie Pressly get in and drive off in a sweet gen 2 Brat... Check out '"My name is Earl" on NBC. It's my new favorite show.

PM sent.

I'm getting ready to rework my PCV system as well. Here is what I have planned: Tom, (or anybody else) are you saying I need a filtered air source somewhere between the PCV valve and the valve cover for the pcv valve to function properly?

Stock oil pressure sender is the big round thing cut off at the bottom of the pic. Where I tapped in is right above it (shiny brass fitting) and I suspect that this hole is already being used by your digidash for an idiot light sender. You might could put a brass tee in there and run both the idiot light and a guage, although I don't know where you find a tee with both metric and pipe threads. You could try to find some adapters to fit in the larger hole where the oem oil press. sender usually resides but again its probably metric and I don't know about the availability of adapters. I would just ditch the idot light for a proper guage and grease up a tap. Good luck!

There are holes already in the firewall. They are about an inch in diameter and should be covered with a rubber plug. I ran the line through the hole on the passenger side and along the frame rail up to the front of oil pump. I ended tapping the idiot light hole out to 1/8 NPT to fit the adapter and compression fitting for the line. It is some kind of metric thread and even tho the adapter starts it will not fit and will eventually leak. Good luck!