mudduck

Put a breaker bar on the pully bolt thats long enough that the end sits on the subframe rail and bump the engine.

Ya might want to do something about that hood. Bungie cords or hood pins or duct tape, or just remove the thing.

Not everyone wants a louder sounding car. I think, but I'm not positive, the ea82 muffler will work on your Brat.

Pull the covers off. Like everyone else has said, unless you are running through tons of mud, not having the covers on isn't going to hurt a thing, and makes changing a water pump or timing belts a whole lot quicker and easier.

Go for the 215s. Wider tires just look good an a BRAT!

Get a 22mm socket and a breaker bar. Get the socket on the pully bolt and get the breaker bar to set on the driver side frame rail and bump the motor.

Appreciate it!

What size are the exhaust studs on a ea82? Thanks.

Ok. The car was running fine this morning on the way to work. As I pulled into the parking lot it just died. Timing belts was my first thought, so I checked them out, they are just fine. I run no covers on the belts. There hasn't been any electical grmlins before this. I was messing with it a few minutes ago, and found a popped fuse labled "meter engine" in the fuse block. I replaced it with a good one with the ecu unhooked and it popped, leading me to think that the ecu is ok. Also there aren't any dummy lights lit up with the key in the on position. I have checked the fused links and they all check out ok. I am starting to think it might be a bad wire.

Need help. 91 Loyale ea82. The car will crank, but Its not getting any spark or fuel. Also, the dummy lights on the dash arn't coming on when the key is in the run position, neither is the light on the ecu. I have checked all the fuses and they all seem to be ok. The junkyard up the road has one out of a 92 but they want $100 for it, and they guy up there is saying it won't work because its out of a 2wd and I have a 4wd. Anyway, I thought I would get a few opinions on what my issue might be. Am I right in thinking that the ecu just crapped out? Thanks

Try prying on it with a flathead screwdriver. Thsi was the case the last time I did the belts. The cover also stayed off this time.

Its ok to leave it off of there. I had the tentioner sieze up on the belt 3 or 4 years ago, I just removed the belt and the tentioner and haven't had a problem yet.

The helicoils worked out great. Got everything back together this weekend out in the 100 degree heat. The oils leaks are down to a minimum now.

Colorado considered my 86 Brat a truck.

Yeah, I broke down and got some helicoils. I started thinking that I might end up with a real fustercluck if I used the thread repair filler stuff. I'll try the helicoils tomarrow after work

This happend on the driver side carrier. Would the whole cam tower need to be replaced though? I'm about to head out and try the stipped thread repair kit and see if it might work. I'll let you all know what my results are

Is what I just got done saying along with a few other choice words last night. I was replaceing the cam seals and o-rings when I removed the two bolts from the carriers, the bolt came out, along with the threads. Not good. I have some stripped thread repair stuff that I have had and haven't used yet. Would this be a good way to repair this little problem? If this had happened with only one bolt, I might could get away with using just one but it happened with both. Any sugestions would be great, as I'm wanting to get this ea82 back on the road be this weekend. Thanks

Back off the shoes. Soak the piss out of it with kroil. Use a puller on the drum. If that don't work, remove the trailing arm, and set it up on end soaking with penatrating oil with a puller. Good luck. I have one out in my yard that is stuck to the spindle. I tried all of the above and even tried a 20 ton press with no luck. ended up replaceing the trailing arm, drum spindle. Oh yeah, don't frget to use the biggest bfh you got.

Check the line from the canister on the pass. side firewall and follow the line that goes to the pass. side back of the intake, near the egr valve. If it comes undone when in 4wd it won't disengage. This has been my experience anyway.

Get on a loose surface like gravel, wet grass, loose dirt, ect. and put it in reverse and try to get the wheels to break loose. That would be enough to get the bind loosed up. I have had a vacume line come unpluged whitch caused mine to not disengage also. Pluged it back up and it shifted right out of 4wd.

I,ve got some stuff called The Right Stuff. I have used it for a few other non subaru related projects, it should do the trick, right? And the little o ring in there, does this absolutly need to be replaced?

What would you all recommend using to seal up the cam towers on a ea82?

I already got the pulley off, and just after I made this post I got the sprokets off. For some reason I was thinking they might have been pressed on the crank and would need a puller.

Whats the best way to get the timing sprocket off the crank on a ea82 without messing it up? Thanks

Yep. mine work great in the warmer weather but suck when it gets cold. Visem grips at the bottom of the cylinder will hold them up. And you don't have a prop to knock over.